Wagon Progress

I've been remiss in posting an update. We've been doing a bit of block sanding interior parts, and its just hard to make those pictures look like any semblance of progress.

We pulled the front fenders back off, we had mocked them up in order to modify the upper fender mounts at the cowl. They came with some excessively sized holes to allow plenty of adjustment, and we had filled in the factory hole and re-drilled to a normal clearance hole. Here shown after a spray of Organic Green KBC, and the stainless washers we used as shims. Hard to leave those stacked washers after we did the other cleanup in resizing the bracket's mounting hole.


IMG_5826.JPG



We had some black delrin scraps left over from making the radius arm bushings for Jared's 39, so we put them to use here. Since they had already been drilled, we added an aluminum plug and match drilled the holes to match the bracket. Installed, the black delrin is barely noticeable and makes for a cleaner detail over the stacked washers.


IMG_5823.JPG



IMG_5825.JPG



IMG_5824.JPG



Some of the parts we sprayed while the front fenders were off.


IMG_5795.JPG



IMG_5794.JPG



IMG_5793.JPG



IMG_5789.JPG



IMG_5791.JPG



With the core support reinstalled, we started on the installation of the inner fenders.


IMG_5829.JPG



Since our cowl bracket was all cleaned up now, we needed to address the attaching hardware. This started with 400 grit and worked up to 5000 trizact before hitting the buffer...




IMG_5831.JPG



Much better! And so we can finalize the wiring at the back of the car, the tail-light housings had been sprayed in epoxy and we added some catalyzed white to the inner portion for some brighter lights.


IMG_5864.JPG



IMG_5866.JPG



.....and the day job has me building anchored support stanchions for some phone lockers and naturally the mounting holes are on the back side for a wall mounting only. What we need are some bolting plates to hold things down as I wasn’t comfortable with rivnuts in the chinesium steel flange on the bottom.


IMG_5835.JPG



Well, said flange also has a 1/4” upward fold for added strength, so our bolting plate will need a tight reverse bend to offset those but still leave room for press nuts on the end flanges.


IMG_5857.JPG



So some 1/2” wide female VEE dies were set up opposing each other with just enough offset to make two bends at once.


IMG_5854.JPG



IMG_5853.JPG



IMG_5850.JPG



Shroud added for weather resistance..


IMG_5843.JPG
 
"we added an aluminum plug and match drilled the holes to match the bracket. Installed, the black delrin is barely noticeable and makes for a cleaner detail over the stacked washers."

It's these hidden details that separate the men from the boys. Who's ever going to know that was done, only those who have followed along with this build will know. What it means to me says "integrity" about the builder. To go that extra mile towards perfection for hidden assembles, it brings a smile to my face.

Well done!!!
 
Amazing attention to detail and your metal working ability still continues to frustrate - err astound me. ;)

The metal working craftman's on SPI is what motivates me to at least try. I've learned some technics that have been beneficial to my project for which I grateful.

There are a lot of talented members on SPI, and their work speaks volumes.
 
A bit of progress, we got the hinges painted so hopefully we can get the tailgate installed this weekend...



IMG_5917.JPG



installing more shiny stuff....


IMG_5967.JPG



IMG_5966.JPG



IMG_5968.JPG



IMG_5970.JPG



We had not pre-drill the holes for the partial spear on the doors when we installed new door skins, so here we mask off the bottom of the door and drill SLOWLY to prevent heat buildup.


IMG_5973.JPG



IMG_5972.JPG



Then the fresh holes are touched up with two coats of epoxy primer. Once dry the spears are added..


IMG_5978.JPG



And our dash clock showed up so we can get that hole filled as well
 
Now I know why I can't find any good used body hammers.......... :)


I'm curious, would putting a drill bit in a refrigerator for say, an hour, be of any help to reduce heat build up?
we mask off the bottom of the door and drill SLOWLY to prevent heat buildup.
 
Now I know why I can't find any good used body hammers.......... :)


I'm curious, would putting a drill bit in a refrigerator for say, an hour, be of any help to reduce heat build up?

We kept the speed slow and it never heated up. Like it stayed cooler than if sunlight hit the panel. Didn't really need any artificial cooling.

Hammer collection takes a back seat to the vise grip collection.. Never have enough clamps, so I'm told. ;)


 
Last edited:
We kept the speed slow and it never heated up. Like it stayed cooler than if sunlight hit the panel. Didn't really need any artificial cooling.

Hammer collection takes a back seat to the vise grip collection.. Never have enough clamps, so I'm told. ;)



I have a varied collection, totals around 8 clamps. LOL
Four of which were made in China and basically useless and that is not so funny.
 
As a metal framer in another lifetime, I have some VG clamps from 25 years ago. I also have the newer style Milwaukee, probably have 15 or 20 real ones and a deep throat chinesium one.
 
While assembling the door bits, we noticed that the retaining clip for the reproduction lock cylinders did not match the originals, which would leave us with a gaping hole in the back side of the inner door.


IMG_6046.JPG



IMG_6033.JPG



So we had media blasted the originals and sent to the Shop at Shorty's for a cerakote finish of gun metal grey. As my luck would have it, the door skins we had installed had some accuracy issues in the lock hole locations.


IMG_6035.JPG



Aligning the clip to the lock hole would result in a slight misalignment out back... and you know Robert's not having that.


IMG_6037.JPG



With Cerakote still fresh, some trimming was done so we could use the original clips to fill the hole void, and the new ones would be used to hold the lock cylinder in place as well as the original clip, whose new job has been reduced to filling a slotted opening. Some window sealant will slow any movement of the pretend clip.


IMG_6042.JPG



IMG_6039.JPG



IMG_6040.JPG



IMG_6043.JPG



IMG_6044.JPG



And the same effort repeated for the driver's side. Where it wasn't as far off as the other side, our mods were still required.


IMG_6052.JPG



Mandatory Kramer photo bomb


IMG_6053.JPG



Adding the pull rod for the door lock....


IMG_6056.JPG



and the addition of a rubber grommet will help keep rattles down.


IMG_6057.JPG



Jared applied some Kilmat inside the tailgate and we added more bling..


IMG_6054.JPG



And we've had a casualty with the Baileigh magnetic brake. The magnet stopped working and some troubleshooting found an open with the coil. Some inspection of the supply wires found an over heat issue. Removing all the epoxy showed it's been warm for awhile....


IMG_6025.JPG



IMG_6026.JPG



IMG_6027.JPG



IMG_6028.JPG



So it looks like we'll be in search of replacement parts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MJM
Baileigh cautions against running that magnetic brake off 220-240 volts. It’s spec’d at 208 volts. I run mine off a large autotransformer set to 208 volts.

I also keep it off when not in use.

Don
 
Back
Top