MP&C
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I’d have to sweep up more often
Wagon Progress
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
MP&C
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Tying up some loose ends, We still need to finish the wiring at the back of the car, but in the middle of modifying the tail light fixtures for bulb relocation. To that end, in an attempt to keep grounding issues to a minimum, quick disconnect tabs are silver soldered to the tail light housings.
Next, we started the installation of the rear power windows. The rear motors had been mocked up a couple of times and the screw holes in the plastic housings were loose/borderline stripped. So they were drilled and tapped, and 10-32 heli-coils installed for a more permanent solution.
Once the power window track was installed, the OEM stop block for downward travel of the window was found to be useless as the window bottomed out into the wheelwell. Some delrin was cut to size, notched for a snug fit onto the track, and two holes drilled for attachment to the track. Worked well...
While here at the rear window, we still needed to drill mounting holes for the shoulder harness through the window garnish moldings. A 1/2-13 bolt was used to fabricate a threaded hole spotter on the lathe, complete with flats for wrench installation.
With garnish molding positioned, a quick tap of the dead blow hammer gives an exact location for the hole.
Next, in order that we don't leave an unfinished hole edge, a punch set was machined for the lathe, complete with stepped shoulders to prevent any movement in the jaws when pressure was applied. This will swage the hole edge for a nice inward flange...
And we had received our new shipment of Cubitron H/L paper from Three Mules Welding Supply for dressing out stainless, so Jared continued prepping our edge trim parts.
Where the hemming process we used with the bead roller isn't an exacting science, we did have some variance in the gap opening that made the prepping process a challenge. In order to get more consistency in gap width, (and thus flange flatness) a new widget tool was fabricated out of 16 gauge to open up those tight spots.
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Next, we started the installation of the rear power windows. The rear motors had been mocked up a couple of times and the screw holes in the plastic housings were loose/borderline stripped. So they were drilled and tapped, and 10-32 heli-coils installed for a more permanent solution.
Once the power window track was installed, the OEM stop block for downward travel of the window was found to be useless as the window bottomed out into the wheelwell. Some delrin was cut to size, notched for a snug fit onto the track, and two holes drilled for attachment to the track. Worked well...
While here at the rear window, we still needed to drill mounting holes for the shoulder harness through the window garnish moldings. A 1/2-13 bolt was used to fabricate a threaded hole spotter on the lathe, complete with flats for wrench installation.
With garnish molding positioned, a quick tap of the dead blow hammer gives an exact location for the hole.
Next, in order that we don't leave an unfinished hole edge, a punch set was machined for the lathe, complete with stepped shoulders to prevent any movement in the jaws when pressure was applied. This will swage the hole edge for a nice inward flange...
And we had received our new shipment of Cubitron H/L paper from Three Mules Welding Supply for dressing out stainless, so Jared continued prepping our edge trim parts.
Where the hemming process we used with the bead roller isn't an exacting science, we did have some variance in the gap opening that made the prepping process a challenge. In order to get more consistency in gap width, (and thus flange flatness) a new widget tool was fabricated out of 16 gauge to open up those tight spots.
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MP&C
Member
Thanks Pugsy!
More progress on the dash inset. In order to form the outer edge trim to fit, we made an "anvil" out of 19 gauge that match the dash inset. The excess flange was trimmed in the area of the sharp bend.
Some heat was applied to the bend area, slight persuasion added to bend a few degrees, the area flattened to remove any puckers, and repeat.
Then we needed to shrink the flange on the insides to match the opening. This was accomplished by squeezing the two edge trim ends together, adding a patch of heat to form a tuck, and then flatten out the tucks to provide the shrink.
For attachment to the dash, 8-32 press studs were installed in the inner flanges where they are also out of sight. The ribbed stainless was installed in the edge trim, then wrapped around our oxygen bottle to provide the radius.
And a sneak peek at our trim fitted to the dash...
More progress on the dash inset. In order to form the outer edge trim to fit, we made an "anvil" out of 19 gauge that match the dash inset. The excess flange was trimmed in the area of the sharp bend.
Some heat was applied to the bend area, slight persuasion added to bend a few degrees, the area flattened to remove any puckers, and repeat.
Then we needed to shrink the flange on the insides to match the opening. This was accomplished by squeezing the two edge trim ends together, adding a patch of heat to form a tuck, and then flatten out the tucks to provide the shrink.
For attachment to the dash, 8-32 press studs were installed in the inner flanges where they are also out of sight. The ribbed stainless was installed in the edge trim, then wrapped around our oxygen bottle to provide the radius.
And a sneak peek at our trim fitted to the dash...
MJM
Promoted Users
Excellent work all the way from the start!!
I'm taking notesI've got a similar one I plan on starting on still sitting in a pole barn being used as a shelf...
John
View attachment 24236
You lucky dog......I'm jealous !!!
MP&C
Member
I think most of them start that way.
MP&C
Member
More shiny stuff...
Since I was on a road trip Sunday, I popped in and visited the patent display that we made the hood for. The owner has it re-wired and reflectors installed. This video gives a better idea of what it was used for..
Back in the early 20's there were lights that would attach to the bumper and a cable driven mechanism attached to the front steering so that the light would follow the direction of travel. Advantageous for the limited brightness of the headlamps in those days. So this was likely a salesman's prop for selling such a lighting accessory.
Since I was on a road trip Sunday, I popped in and visited the patent display that we made the hood for. The owner has it re-wired and reflectors installed. This video gives a better idea of what it was used for..
Back in the early 20's there were lights that would attach to the bumper and a cable driven mechanism attached to the front steering so that the light would follow the direction of travel. Advantageous for the limited brightness of the headlamps in those days. So this was likely a salesman's prop for selling such a lighting accessory.
MP&C
Member
Thanks! We’re in Leonardtown MD. Someone mismarked the paper on two counts, actually for a 55, and McCartney Paint and Custom.
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MP&C
Member
Before we could install the rear bumper we needed to install the rear bumper seal, this keeps exhaust fumes from sneaking through and getting sucked in the back tailgate. The seal sits in a channel which is then "crimped" with some rounded pliers. Only my rounded pliers did not work, we needed parallel jaw pliers. So these channel locks were modified by adding the round stock. Only that did not hold well enough, so a dimpler was added to the bottom jaw, as shown...
These dimples gave us enough grip, and any chips were removed and then recoated with a couple coats of epoxy primer.
Here's the bumper added, and a video that better shows the hidden hardware...
Here's a closer look at the forming of the edge trim for our dash inset trim. We had made a template out of 19 gauge steel to match the dash inset, and used it (and some heat) to form the point. This video shows the shrinking of the flange so the edge trim would match. The upper and lower edge trim was squeezed while applying heat to form a tuck for shrinking the flange and providing the radius.
All shaped, before polishing..
Press studs installed...
Ribbed stainless insert added and our green radius brake used to match the dash profile...
One last touch-up to the polishing and installed in the dash.....
These dimples gave us enough grip, and any chips were removed and then recoated with a couple coats of epoxy primer.
Here's the bumper added, and a video that better shows the hidden hardware...
Here's a closer look at the forming of the edge trim for our dash inset trim. We had made a template out of 19 gauge steel to match the dash inset, and used it (and some heat) to form the point. This video shows the shrinking of the flange so the edge trim would match. The upper and lower edge trim was squeezed while applying heat to form a tuck for shrinking the flange and providing the radius.
All shaped, before polishing..
Press studs installed...
Ribbed stainless insert added and our green radius brake used to match the dash profile...
One last touch-up to the polishing and installed in the dash.....
MJM
Promoted Users
Question regarding the ribbed stainless steel insert. How much smaller should the hole be in comparison to the insert diameter so the ribs will fully bite and hold?........or is the hole the same size as the ribbed insert?
Also can the ribbed insert be found at McMastercar (sp) ?
Thank you,
Also can the ribbed insert be found at McMastercar (sp) ?
Thank you,
MP&C
Member
So the ribbed stainless insert is referring to the shiny sheet stock in the middle. The press studs used were indeed McMaster items, FH-832-8 is the part we used. A number 8 screw is .164 diameter, the stud calls for a .161 hole. The sheet stock used for the edge trim was about 1/2 the thickness needed for adequate stud retention, so we added a couple tack welds each to persuade it to stay.
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