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Awesome, I just couldn't see any signs of shrinking. Actually, I thought I was sending a private message.
W.A.R.
W.A.R.
Yeah, as you know couldn't really shrink at all. But the reality of it is most of the damage didn't stretch the metal. It dented rather than stretched it. And as I worked the metal when it got to the point where I thought I was going to over stretch....I would stop.
Me thinks you are also very good at patina painting. ha ha There was a lot of stretched and creased metal there. I will keep my thoughts to myself. Great work!
W.A.R.
W.A.R.
Actually no painting what so ever on any of it. I have never even tried to paint patina yet...
i have shrewin williams paint readidly available to me and thats what ive always painted. how did the ultra 7000 do with universal clear? and did you use the spi reducer and activator with it or the sherwin williams? and did you ever try ATX ive sprayed it a couple times it seemed decent.-any information would be greatly appreciated.
crashtech
crashtech
You should use S-W RHF reducer for base, it is special for Ultra 7000, has additives that make it look milky, and also contains activator. Ultra 7000 works with Universal, but if you don't wait long enough to clear, it will die back and look dull. If it's something nice, I would wait overnight, or at least a couple hours. I don't use S-W anymore, it's expensive and performs poorly, in my opinion. I use Standox now.
Likes: zachm
Hi Rusty, I see that you've been using SPI black epoxy on the underside of your projects. Do you ever find it to fade or chalk in the engine bay or the frame? I'd like to use it but I'm worried about fading/chalking etc. thank you. Dan.
rusty428cj
rusty428cj
No problems looks great over time.
danp76
danp76
Thank you Rusty! I was concerned with it chalking or fading over the years, but it sounds like it will hold up.
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