Wagon Progress

[MP&C]

Steering column one step closer to green paint...

and blocked to 500 grit...

Working on removing dings and refining scratches on the windshield trim in prep for polishing. These pieces are less receptive to using the DA due to all the creases, so we've resorted to wet/dry paper up to 2500 and then polish.

Jared getting the hang of this stainless work....

For the other wagon, we went with a powder coat chrome finish to dress up that front dropped axle.

And this is the second round of three coats of epoxy and blocking. Think this will be the last round, and then on to some silver base and blue kandy..

 

[MP&C]

More work on the wagons. Jared and I continuing to repair some stainless trim. I was asked about our process, so here's a bit more detailed approach. But understand we are complete novices at this, so take any of this with a grain of salt.

To start, some light scuffing in line with 1500 grit helps to highlight any rock dings in the windshield trim..

Once any defects are identified, they are LIGHTLY tapped outward from the back side to bring the defect outward where it can be removed. Then 400 grit is used to remove the defect (and by default some of the adjacent material). So we want the defect to be pronounced outward, but not too much. Better to tap it outward in repeated steps than to go too far and create a stretch. I missed getting a picture before we started on this "rock chip"; this was after a few passes with 400 on the 3M board (just above arrow).. It was tapped outward about 4 different times until we got it where the defect was sanded out.

Back side that was tapped....

After removing all the dings, the surface was sanded working progressively through grits 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and then on to 3000 and 5000 trizact discs on the DA. Afterwards it was polished out on the buffer...

Some parts painted green so we can continue with more assembly... It was 90 in the shop with the paint booth pulling in outside air, so we added some SPI retarder to the Universal Clear.

When we had mocked up the wagon frame we just had a 1/2” bolt stuck through the bottom of the pull handle. Now that we’ve got the frame back from chrome powder coating, it’s time for some final details. The bolt for the bottom of the pull handle needs to be an Allen bolt to match our kingpins, and we need one from each side to be symmetrical. A little late to thread any holes in the pivot piece, so we’ll go with docking hardware. A 1/2-13 bolt was turned down for 1/4-20 threads, and the opposite one drilled and tapped.

An allen wrench in the vise holds the bolt for threading

Bolt for the opposite side...

Frame is all done but trimming the axles, now to finish blocking the epoxy on the tub.

 

[crashtech]

Blocking the inside of that tub looks super fun...

 

[MP&C]

I think it's worse than any car part I've ever done. And a hemmed edge under the lip..

 

[RosharonRooster]

Excellent as usual. I enjoy fixing stainless. I'm looking forward to it on my car. I'm a total self taught novice but I can get it pretty good and it doesn't cost but some sand paper

 

[MP&C]

A quick job in the shop to finish off a junction box lid for a data center. A scissor lift took out the old one. A local machine shop made the lid and needed a recess added for the lock cylinder.

I have a lock reforming tool from MAC tools that looked close to the original but the offset was not quite as deep. So some 1/2" washers were stacked on the punch and a spacer machined on the lathe for the die.

Comparison, that will do the job...

Back to our stainless trim, we need to modify the upper door trim to hold our peep mirrors. We opted for the old school look of the peep mirrors but did not want to use the clamp on paint chippers. The front edge of the trim uses a machine screw through the door and into a nut plate. Our plans are to use a formed hole in the trim and use the hole in the door to attach the mirrors.

As we had used the tail stock of the South Bend before with success, we made some press dies to match the mirror's stepped end and provide a flange in the holes for added strength.

Trial test of the mirror, yellow rag hung outside the rear window for a more visible reflection

 

[MP&C]

Some more fabrication work for the day job, we had a door seal that was being abraded by a non-skid strip on the threshold, and wanted to drop it down some as well for better clearance. So a new threshold was made from 16 Gauge #4 brushed stainless. Where the old used countersunk holes for the #8 screws, we opted for the more correct version of dimpled holes. Provides more contact area for better seated hardware.

Dies were made for the dimpling process, they used a 1/4" shank just pushed into a drilled hole in some bar stock vs. welding together. This will allow quick changeout for other sizes/shapes of dies for use in the press brake.

Next, to gain a bit more clearance for the door seal, the new threshold was located and the protrusions of the rubber flooring were scored with a utility knife at the threshold edge. Next, we used a multi-tool to shave down these protrusions that would be beneath the threshold. This wasn't much, but better than what was there before.

Back on wagon duty, we've been continuing on stainless polishing. We had been doing some of the shorter sections by sanding on top of my 4 wheel shop stool as it has a nice flat top surface.

Once we got to the longer sections of trim, this became too cumbersome, so some 1/2" MDF was repurposed as a "holding fixture" while we refined the damaged scratches and dings. A Black Diamond longboard was used with 500 grit PSA paper to highlight any low spots, high spots, or other carnage. Then some LIGHT DUTY metal bumping to address the issues and a repeat of the highlighting sanding. Once all the defects were addressed, we then worked progressively through 600, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500 w/d paper. Then 3000 and 5000 Trizact, and finally on to the buffer.

A modification of our "fixture" to hold the curved end of the trim...

Jared helps out here to help stabilize the skinny trim and keep it from flopping around. Once quick mis-step at this point is about an hour minimum of recovery.


https://youtu.be/Q0h6FuKog44


Nice reflection of the door opener in the ceiling after buffing...

trim clips added...

...and our driver's mirror added...

 

[chevman]

3m Wet n Dry was a good choice, Silicone Carbide does an awesome job on SS.

 

[MP&C]

Friday night was paint night. We started with a coat of SPI epoxy thinned for sealing, then two coats of Galaxy gray shimrin basecoat, then 4 coats of Cobalt Blue Kandy, and two coats of SPI universal clear.

First coat of Kandy:

It was loosely assembled Saturday morning and carried into the sunlight for pictures. The low morning sun was not enough to wake up the metallic in the basecoat, and this looks jet black.

A bit later, it’s starting to wake up the blue….

After wagon assembly and photo op, we did some more Stainless scratch refinement... Two long pieces left to go. and one on order. Dana had taken one somewhere for straightening, and the results left us with a wrinkle and a crack forming. So that one's replacement is on the way from The Stainless Shoppe.

Jared putting the eagle eye on the remaining stainless to find any defects...

Reassembling the steering column after painting...





some heat shrink was added to the harness to help prevent abrading against the steering shaft. Our steering wheel puller kit did not have the needed parts for compressing the spring for the ts cam/horn ring, so we made a push ring and modified some 5/16 bolts for the cause. Much cheaper than grinding on the snap on parts.

Sunday morning I did a shop tour for Pete, his son, and his neighbor. I was too busy running my mouth to take pictures... After that we loaded up the wagon for it's maiden voyage, a shakedown run at Eddie's Brunch and Car Show, located at Bailey's Olde Breton Inn. This isn't a real large show (although it grows every year) but it's one of those must attends, and all the proceeds benefit our local Hospice.



Some takeaways on the wagon design, the pull handle length that was designed for a small child inside the wagon was too short for a 6' tall fella with a long stride. Felt like yap dogs at my heels . And I think the frame design may need air bags, where it did well on the pavement, there was quite a bit of drag (rolling resistance) with the grass up in the frame.

*Car show pictures borrowed from FB

 

[MP&C]

More installing stainless trim. The screw holes for the beltline trim that wraps into the tailgate opening had been filled when we shaved the lead seams. So we used some tape to protect the paint as we aligned the side trim to the lift gate trim before drilling the holes.

One piece to go on the left side, awaiting the trip from WI.

Next, we attempted to install our vent windows in the "reconditioned" frames the owner had bought. Only we noticed they weren't so ready for installation...

and bent...

Well, since we're on a roll, lets check the stainless trim that divides the vent and side windows. This had been "reconditioned" and included with the bent and cracked vent frame. Looks like they just polished up the dents and scratches. Not going to meet our standards.

So we media blasted the original frames, which had no damage, and dropped them off at the Shop at Shorty's for a Cerakote finish.

Inspecting the stainless trim, we found the originals to be less beat up than the reconditioned stuff, so we opted to straighten out the originals. Here's a comparison of the trim, the two on the left are the reconditioned that had been polished right over the defects. The two on the right are the originals, the left of the two has had any dings/dents pushed from the back in prep for our refinement process. (except the one up top I missed) The right one has gone through our w/d 360, 600, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500, all done wet. There are some minor scratches still, so we'll go through this process once more prior to buffing to make sure we have a flawless finish.

And a helpful hint for those who dabble in polishing stainless. We've all had occasion where the stainless slips off the buffing wheel, bouncing off the buffer shaft, causing another 2-3 hours to correct. We added a rubber grommet to cover the nut and a plastic end cap to cover the threads. Less chance of damage from those mis-steps.

We did get some more chrome on the front. Look, no bolts!!

 

[RosharonRooster]

Nice idea on the buffer!!

 

[MP&C]

Picked up the vent window frames from The Shop at Shortys, done in a Gunmetal Gray Cerakote finish.

and we got our final piece of stainless trim from The Stainless Shoppe...

Packaged very well....

Steering column installed...

Friday was our appointment for lettering the blue wagon, rode up to PA to HotRodJen's art studio..

We opted for a script that deviated from the stock "decals", why hand paint something to match a factory decal? Let's go with looks fast while standing still...

and reassembled for the trip home..

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

You sure have a bunch of talented people at your disposal.
For someone like myself who has trouble drawing stick people, that is simply astounding.

 

[MP&C]

You sure have a bunch of talented people at your disposal.
For someone like myself who has trouble drawing stick people, that is simply astounding.

At my disposal was just over a three hour drive...

well worth the trip.. but yeah, pays to have people that help make your work look good..

 

[MJM]

I've see a lot of HotRodJens work. She's extremely talented at was she does.

That wagon came out awesome. Love the color.

 

[MP&C]

Thanks, yes, I can sit and watch her videos all day.


More progress on the wagon, (the green one) working on the parts so we can assemble and install the vent windows. For our glass installation, we did things twice as the 1/16 rubber did not give a snug enough fit. So here is our second round using 3/32 thick rubber. One inch wide strips were cut out of the sheet and lubricated with an Ivory/water mix.

The rubber was wrapped around the glass and it was pressed down inside the frame by hand. Then a "slight" squeeze of the frame to ensure it wasn't sprung open from the installation process.

These got moved to the attic for a good heat baking (drying the soapy solution) and we'll trim the rubber flush with the chrome vent frame in a couple of days.

Next, onto prepping the stainless trim for the vent windows for buffing, refining the scratches. Detail work like this is more difficult with parts flopping around in your hand, so some MDF was found the correct size (width) to hold the wide portion of the trim, and another piece of MDF was shaved to fit the narrow piece of trim. We should have these done this weekend.

Next, we picked up our battery, but the lifting handle bosses on the ends of the battery interfered with our OEM hold down.

Not to be dissuaded, the belt file made short work of a shave.

Luckily the mount hides our sanding marks. Much better down where it belongs...

Like it's made to go there...

 

[MJM]

Was there any adhesive used on one side of the rubber seal for the vent wing, or was it just a compression fit?

McMasterCar for the rubber?

 

[MP&C]

Compression fit. Yes, McMaster.

 

[MP&C]

Drove to VA Wednesday night to see a retired body guy who was selling some of his tools.

Today I met a local retired body guy who called me about a month ago, looking to sell some of his tools.

Never enough clamps.

 

[Yotabldr]

Is that SPI epoxy on your hold down?

And nice score on the clamps!