MP&C
Member
They failed to mention that when I got it many years ago. I guess it's a good thing it lasted this long. I do have a buck boost for when it goes back together.
Wagon Progress
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
MP&C
Member
More progress, we were test fitting the power antenna an noticed that the mounting bezel did not sit horizontally on the fender. I had quickly whipped up a wedge shaped and tapered spacer out of some aluminum as a quick test.
Where that was functional, it did not match the chrome finish of the bezel. I picked up a chunk of 1" stainless rod (local drop cut) to make a duplicate out of stainless. The wedge shape was added first, using the 12" disc sander... then clamped in the Southbend for the taper cut and a hole boring.
....and trimmed off to length
In order to hold this oddball shape for polishing, some rivnuts were used on a 1/2-13 bolt, with the wedge angle added to one for a more positive hold..
Completed, this matches the chrome finish of the bezel much better...
Since we were ready to re-install the front fenders, I thought I'd grab pictures of our fine-tuning adjustment screws for the fender to door alignment. The hex bolt shown on the right is filling an existing hole that used to have a rubber plug in it. I guess having pulled out the dried and cracked old rubber plug, I wanted a more permanent solution. We were going to use that hole but it did not align with the rib on the fender's rear brace. So another hole was drilled next to it, a 3/8-16 AVK style rivet nut installed, and a fully threaded bolt added. The bolt head was covered with a rubber cap and the inside end of the bolt had a slot added for adjustment purposes. Now we could use a screwdriver to adjust the screw outward, pushing the center of the fender until it aligns to the door surface.. A jam nut on the inside tightens against the rivnut to prevent any movement.
And with our upper fender mounts painted, they get installed using polished button head hardware and our barely noticeable shims we had fabricated.
In the tooling department, we needed a tight radius reverse bend on some .090 aluminum, so a Gene Winfield inspired 1-1/4" round stock was added to our 4" pipe. This was bolted straight into tapped holes and used two stacked flat washers to provide the gap. The aluminum was 5052 alloy and was annealed prior to bending.
Where that was functional, it did not match the chrome finish of the bezel. I picked up a chunk of 1" stainless rod (local drop cut) to make a duplicate out of stainless. The wedge shape was added first, using the 12" disc sander... then clamped in the Southbend for the taper cut and a hole boring.
....and trimmed off to length
In order to hold this oddball shape for polishing, some rivnuts were used on a 1/2-13 bolt, with the wedge angle added to one for a more positive hold..
Completed, this matches the chrome finish of the bezel much better...
Since we were ready to re-install the front fenders, I thought I'd grab pictures of our fine-tuning adjustment screws for the fender to door alignment. The hex bolt shown on the right is filling an existing hole that used to have a rubber plug in it. I guess having pulled out the dried and cracked old rubber plug, I wanted a more permanent solution. We were going to use that hole but it did not align with the rib on the fender's rear brace. So another hole was drilled next to it, a 3/8-16 AVK style rivet nut installed, and a fully threaded bolt added. The bolt head was covered with a rubber cap and the inside end of the bolt had a slot added for adjustment purposes. Now we could use a screwdriver to adjust the screw outward, pushing the center of the fender until it aligns to the door surface.. A jam nut on the inside tightens against the rivnut to prevent any movement.
And with our upper fender mounts painted, they get installed using polished button head hardware and our barely noticeable shims we had fabricated.
In the tooling department, we needed a tight radius reverse bend on some .090 aluminum, so a Gene Winfield inspired 1-1/4" round stock was added to our 4" pipe. This was bolted straight into tapped holes and used two stacked flat washers to provide the gap. The aluminum was 5052 alloy and was annealed prior to bending.
MJM
Promoted Users
More progress, we were test fitting the power antenna an noticed that the mounting bezel did not sit horizontally on the fender. I had quickly whipped up a wedge shaped and tapered spacer out of some aluminum as a quick test.
Where that was functional, it did not match the chrome finish of the bezel. I picked up a chunk of 1" stainless rod (local drop cut) to make a duplicate out of stainless. The wedge shape was added first, using the 12" disc sander... then clamped in the Southbend for the taper cut and a hole boring.
....and trimmed off to length
In order to hold this oddball shape for polishing, some rivnuts were used on a 1/2-13 bolt, with the wedge angle added to one for a more positive hold..
Completed, this matches the chrome finish of the bezel much better...
Since we were ready to re-install the front fenders, I thought I'd grab pictures of our fine-tuning adjustment screws for the fender to door alignment. The hex bolt shown on the right is filling an existing hole that used to have a rubber plug in it. I guess having pulled out the dried and cracked old rubber plug, I wanted a more permanent solution. We were going to use that hole but it did not align with the rib on the fender's rear brace. So another hole was drilled next to it, a 3/8-16 AVK style rivet nut installed, and a fully threaded bolt added. The bolt head was covered with a rubber cap and the inside end of the bolt had a slot added for adjustment purposes. Now we could use a screwdriver to adjust the screw outward, pushing the center of the fender until it aligns to the door surface.. A jam nut on the inside tightens against the rivnut to prevent any movement.
And with our upper fender mounts painted, they get installed using polished button head hardware and our barely noticeable shims we had fabricated.
In the tooling department, we needed a tight radius reverse bend on some .090 aluminum, so a Gene Winfield inspired 1-1/4" round stock was added to our 4" pipe. This was bolted straight into tapped holes and used two stacked flat washers to provide the gap. The aluminum was 5052 alloy and was annealed prior to bending.
First things first, I'll trade ya a home made English Wheel for that lathe
Seriously though, I'm replying to know how you bent the metal around the 1-1\4" pipe. Was that done with brute force with your hands, or was it a combination of brute force and a metal hammer or hard rubber mallet?
Kawickrice
Promoted Users
The quality of your work always amazes me. I love reading your project threads.
123pugsy
Member
X2...........I rush thru and do things twice. Robert takes his time and does it nice.
MP&C
Member
Now Pugsy, you know I’ve shown the scrap pile before.
MP&C
Member
More progress on the wagon. While reassembling the front end, Jared noticed the fenders were a bit high at the cowl. This next picture shows it, although the perspective makes it a bit exaggerated.
So we pulled each of our new shims we had made and shaved another 1/16" off the height.
This shows the fender height after adjusting the shim height.
But shows our next back up and punt moment. The wedge shim we had made for the antenna was too steep, and this shows the actual angle needed. So we made another with less angle...
Note some "pre-polishing" was done on the lathe prior to cutting off the wedge to make things a bit easier. Final version installed and vertical orientation verified...
Next, we got the driver's door wiring routed through the upper door hinge... much easier after the trial-and-error practice we did on the passenger side.
...and with the front fenders back on to stay, Jared reassembled some of the core support parts.
Moving to the rear of the car, we started the rear tail-light install now that they have been painted inside and out. Wiring was routed through OEM style boots to help minimize any water intrusion into the lamp sockets. Replacement button contacts were used in the sockets (w-crimp) to eliminate any unneeded splicing of the wiring. Wiring complete, with bulb seal attached to the housing:
Rivet-nuts were installed for mounting the housing....
Nice snug fit to the body, and a functional test to make sure we're done here..
Moving to the passenger side, we'd need to secure the harness to the tail-light swing arm mechanism (part of the hidden gas door mod) so we planned to add some heli-coils in the arm for adel clamps. I had a long 1/8" bit to get in close to the corner, but our final size of 13/64 for the 10-32 heli-coil tap would be another issue.
Then I noticed some tubing in the scrap pile that had a 3/16 ID, just undersized. So our drill bit was clamped in the 3 jaw chuck of the lathe, and the tail stock used to press the two together.
Now we had an extended bit to complete the heli-coil installation.
...and a functional test of the wiring on the arm...
So we pulled each of our new shims we had made and shaved another 1/16" off the height.
This shows the fender height after adjusting the shim height.
But shows our next back up and punt moment. The wedge shim we had made for the antenna was too steep, and this shows the actual angle needed. So we made another with less angle...
Note some "pre-polishing" was done on the lathe prior to cutting off the wedge to make things a bit easier. Final version installed and vertical orientation verified...
Next, we got the driver's door wiring routed through the upper door hinge... much easier after the trial-and-error practice we did on the passenger side.
...and with the front fenders back on to stay, Jared reassembled some of the core support parts.
Moving to the rear of the car, we started the rear tail-light install now that they have been painted inside and out. Wiring was routed through OEM style boots to help minimize any water intrusion into the lamp sockets. Replacement button contacts were used in the sockets (w-crimp) to eliminate any unneeded splicing of the wiring. Wiring complete, with bulb seal attached to the housing:
Rivet-nuts were installed for mounting the housing....
Nice snug fit to the body, and a functional test to make sure we're done here..
Moving to the passenger side, we'd need to secure the harness to the tail-light swing arm mechanism (part of the hidden gas door mod) so we planned to add some heli-coils in the arm for adel clamps. I had a long 1/8" bit to get in close to the corner, but our final size of 13/64 for the 10-32 heli-coil tap would be another issue.
Then I noticed some tubing in the scrap pile that had a 3/16 ID, just undersized. So our drill bit was clamped in the 3 jaw chuck of the lathe, and the tail stock used to press the two together.
Now we had an extended bit to complete the heli-coil installation.
...and a functional test of the wiring on the arm...
MP&C
Member
Wagon 2.0 progress, I was tasked with adding a paint job to this:
but had a couple of issues to address first prior to paint. The dropped axle design lacked lateral strength of an I-beam, so we ordered some 1/8 x 1/2 flat bar to cap the top and bottom, adding much needed strength. Next, the frame hoop was produced with limited tooling availability, and the corners made use of pie-cuts that some still remained and would show through the paint. I attempted to weld some of these closed, but realized it would be quicker to remake the hoop.
Always one to make tools into multiple use, the new tubing corners were bent on our buffer stand "radius brake"
The rear "axle" stanchions had been bolted on using rivnuts, but I was worried the side wall of the tubing may deflect from weight in the wagon. So in true Robert overbuilding form, some threaded standoffs were turned into a sleeve that would weld on both sides of the tubing for less stress upset.
Both ends were ground flush prior to welding..
Welding the front end to the new frame hoop...
Next, to clean up the front end components a bit in order to add oilite bushings...
With spindle perches welded to the ends of our "I-beam" front end... a test fit of all the bits..
And here with our center link added, the last fabrication detail needed will be the handle.. to be continued...
but had a couple of issues to address first prior to paint. The dropped axle design lacked lateral strength of an I-beam, so we ordered some 1/8 x 1/2 flat bar to cap the top and bottom, adding much needed strength. Next, the frame hoop was produced with limited tooling availability, and the corners made use of pie-cuts that some still remained and would show through the paint. I attempted to weld some of these closed, but realized it would be quicker to remake the hoop.
Always one to make tools into multiple use, the new tubing corners were bent on our buffer stand "radius brake"
The rear "axle" stanchions had been bolted on using rivnuts, but I was worried the side wall of the tubing may deflect from weight in the wagon. So in true Robert overbuilding form, some threaded standoffs were turned into a sleeve that would weld on both sides of the tubing for less stress upset.
Both ends were ground flush prior to welding..
Welding the front end to the new frame hoop...
Next, to clean up the front end components a bit in order to add oilite bushings...
With spindle perches welded to the ends of our "I-beam" front end... a test fit of all the bits..
And here with our center link added, the last fabrication detail needed will be the handle.. to be continued...
MP&C
Member
Here's the hidden fuel door in action, and why we needed the helicoils for adel clamps to hold the wiring in place....and away from moving parts.
The back end is starting to look like a car again...
....and more work on the other wagon, here's the start of the pull handle...
A functional test of the steering bits...
For the pull handle, we had tried out some knurling on aluminum to see if we liked that....
But this would have required more hardware, and the aluminum handle was over-ruled for simplicity of a welded steel tube. Here we formed the handle's hoop, and some side "extensions" were added so we could have a consistent shoulder around the "steering column" for fillet weld.
And some shots in da weeds... may have clearance issues
The back end is starting to look like a car again...
....and more work on the other wagon, here's the start of the pull handle...
A functional test of the steering bits...
For the pull handle, we had tried out some knurling on aluminum to see if we liked that....
But this would have required more hardware, and the aluminum handle was over-ruled for simplicity of a welded steel tube. Here we formed the handle's hoop, and some side "extensions" were added so we could have a consistent shoulder around the "steering column" for fillet weld.
And some shots in da weeds... may have clearance issues
MP&C
Member
Some additional parts for painting, we had media blasted the door latch and tailgate latch pull rods, as well as the end clips. The rods didn't have much option for securing for paint, so we opted for some rare earth magnets screwed to the paint stand. We'd paint one side, let it flash, rotate 180*, and spray the other side. That's our plan...
Jared had made a hoop holder for the end clips so they wouldn't get lost in the media blast cabinet, and it looked like a good holder for painting as well.
We also needed to paint the steering column, so it was disassembled and media blasted to prep for epoxy primer.. To support the column on the paint stand some eyebolts were fabricated to fit the 1/4-28 threads.
I missed getting pics after primer, so we'll get those next time..
Progress for our other wagon, the bead detail at the bottom of the wagon pan has some flat spots (defects) from the factory. As we will be spraying kandy paint, those spots need to be corrected so they won't be visible.
So we made a set of dies for the Lennox to be able to give a consistent bead around the entire perimeter..
much better:
more to come...
Jared had made a hoop holder for the end clips so they wouldn't get lost in the media blast cabinet, and it looked like a good holder for painting as well.
We also needed to paint the steering column, so it was disassembled and media blasted to prep for epoxy primer.. To support the column on the paint stand some eyebolts were fabricated to fit the 1/4-28 threads.
I missed getting pics after primer, so we'll get those next time..
Progress for our other wagon, the bead detail at the bottom of the wagon pan has some flat spots (defects) from the factory. As we will be spraying kandy paint, those spots need to be corrected so they won't be visible.
So we made a set of dies for the Lennox to be able to give a consistent bead around the entire perimeter..
much better:
more to come...
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
This whole thread is just amazing. I was telling my buddy about this topic. It's the next level of building when you make specific tools to do a job. Thank you for posting the progress.
MP&C
Member
Some side work in the shop, we had made some wall mounts for a table top touch panel a year or so back and the Tech Rep for the company that made the touch panels had reached out to me recently as they needed some wall mounts for a bank job they were doing in New York. In order to better guarantee consistency, I drew up some in-the-flat drawings and sent them to SendCutSend so we could use laser cut parts this time around.
The customer was installing these in drywall, so we also needed to design a mud ring. We added a flange for support so that this could also be used as a drilling template, resting the flange on the bottom of the hole opening and using clamps to eliminate any movement. The flange width was sized to be half width of our lower dies, so the simple use of a couple rare earth magnets makes the perfect back stop. We included #29 drill bits in the kit in order to drill through the 8-32 press nuts without removing any threads. A 3/16 bit was also included for a generous oversize of the holes in the drywall. And yes, I also included work instructions.
Since the sides of the sleeve for the mount are dictated by equipment and magnet thickness, all of the folded flange widths would need to be sized the same. For better accuracy we opted to use the flange edge against our backstop (vice outer perimeter edge of the mount), so we needed a "shim" of a .323 thick flat bar to provide the needed size.
Back plate gets welded in place; it was sized for its edge to locate half width of the flange for an easy fusion fillet bead.
Test fit....
Then dropped off at The Shop at Shorty's for powder coat finish, some in Black Wrinkle and others in Snowbound White.
The customer was installing these in drywall, so we also needed to design a mud ring. We added a flange for support so that this could also be used as a drilling template, resting the flange on the bottom of the hole opening and using clamps to eliminate any movement. The flange width was sized to be half width of our lower dies, so the simple use of a couple rare earth magnets makes the perfect back stop. We included #29 drill bits in the kit in order to drill through the 8-32 press nuts without removing any threads. A 3/16 bit was also included for a generous oversize of the holes in the drywall. And yes, I also included work instructions.
Since the sides of the sleeve for the mount are dictated by equipment and magnet thickness, all of the folded flange widths would need to be sized the same. For better accuracy we opted to use the flange edge against our backstop (vice outer perimeter edge of the mount), so we needed a "shim" of a .323 thick flat bar to provide the needed size.
Back plate gets welded in place; it was sized for its edge to locate half width of the flange for an easy fusion fillet bead.
Test fit....
Then dropped off at The Shop at Shorty's for powder coat finish, some in Black Wrinkle and others in Snowbound White.
MP&C
Member
The boss lady had picked up a vintage three-shelved stand a while back, and we had been tripping over the parts in the media blast cabinet.
After media blasting they were sent off to The Shop at Shorty's for a powder coat finish. He had some pastel green in stock so we went with that. Here's the preview picture he sent:
We will get the parts picked up this week. We already ordered new stainless hardware in slotted screws and square nuts for the assembly. Next, the casters seemed in good condition but needed a refinish as well. So the OEM rivets were drilled out so the metal housing could get a Cerakote treatment in gun metal grey. In order to reassemble without rivets we made some faux rivets that will make use of 1/4-20 threads and sleeve retainer loctite to keep things together.
A tap handle in the vise was used to clamp the "rivet" while it was threaded..
The nuts were rounded as well, leaving just enough flat for assembly, to mimic the rounded head rivet as well. Threads trimmed to size and the parts were then polished.
After media blasting they were sent off to The Shop at Shorty's for a powder coat finish. He had some pastel green in stock so we went with that. Here's the preview picture he sent:
We will get the parts picked up this week. We already ordered new stainless hardware in slotted screws and square nuts for the assembly. Next, the casters seemed in good condition but needed a refinish as well. So the OEM rivets were drilled out so the metal housing could get a Cerakote treatment in gun metal grey. In order to reassemble without rivets we made some faux rivets that will make use of 1/4-20 threads and sleeve retainer loctite to keep things together.
A tap handle in the vise was used to clamp the "rivet" while it was threaded..
The nuts were rounded as well, leaving just enough flat for assembly, to mimic the rounded head rivet as well. Threads trimmed to size and the parts were then polished.
MP&C
Member
A few months back we had received some newly polished stainless spears (side trim) for the 55 wagon. Part of the payment was to fabricate a "factory delete" plate for the spare tire well of a 55 chevy in gasser form. He wanted to mimic the factory X pattern that is located along the centerline of the trunk. We recently got this done, and with as-installed pictures received, it seems a good time to post this as well. We had tried a sample using the bead roller, and also had made a die set for the Lennox that would produce both sides at once. Neither worked well at all. I didn't care for the bead roller version much at all since we would be relying on self guiding and the possibility of line deviation. So we opted for a set of offset dies that I had for the Lennox, and producing each side individually. The Lennox works well because the linear slide lets us clamp the part and produce multiple parallel embossings with good accuracy.
As primed by the owner... Yes, that is Wisconsin farmland.
Installed...
So there you have it, a rare OEM spare tire delete plate.
As primed by the owner... Yes, that is Wisconsin farmland.
Installed...
So there you have it, a rare OEM spare tire delete plate.
MP&C
Member
We picked up the powder coated parts from The Shop at Shorty's, for reassembly we had ordered some replacement slotted oval head screws and square nuts in stainless so we could polish them up a bit for a bit of bling.
And no job is complete without undergoing the close scrutiny of the quality control inspector...
And no job is complete without undergoing the close scrutiny of the quality control inspector...