Yep. It's good news. Not being critical, but your previous descriptions of atomization and sputtering took us in a completely different direction. Glad that you posted those pics and we could help.Oh geeeeez really?
Like a “regular” primer? What irregular about this primer? I am still “struggling “ and have a huge amount of rework. Not to mention down time from doing a lot of debugging.primer should be the easiest thing to spray regardless of color. To dry to wet doesn't flow out of the gun well? I am still thinking something is not working in my system correctly because this should be a simple job……I spray SPI white epoxy a lot. First time I sprayed it , years ago , looked like crater city. I didn't know that I sprayed first coat too thick. Once I found out what I did wrong and adjusted how I sprayed it, haven't had any problems since. My problem first time I used it was that I sprayed it wet and heavy like a regular primer.
White epoxy requires some finesse. Chris gave you some excellent advice. Spray it with your base gun. Put the primer gun away. I use my Iwata LPH400 LV 1.4Like a “regular” primer? What irregular about this primer? I am still “struggling “ and have a huge amount of rework. Not to mention down time from doing a lot of debugging.primer should be the easiest thing to spray regardless of color. To dry to wet doesn't flow out of the gun well? I am still thinking something is not working in my system correctly because this should be a simple job……
Yup I did! Started with a 1.4 base gun no good, tried my 1.7 base gun that I use for primer same not good. Went to my 1.4 Tekna Prolite same.White epoxy requires some finesse. Chris gave you some excellent advice. Spray it with your base gun. Put the primer gun away. I use my Iwata LPH400 LV 1.4
Don
I’ve been painting on and off sine 1977…..Painting is like golf. It looks easy until you try it.
I do use a filter at the gun. Have been for years with no issues. I’ll remove it and see if that helps. Its new and its before the gun reg.Do you have one of those little plastic desiccant filters on the air inlet at the gun?
Those are known to cause problems, so if so, try removing it. If not, then nevermind.
Then take Chris’s advice. Go easy on the first coat. Increase your distance and reduce your overlap. Use a wide fan. Those craters are because it was sprayed too heavy too close. JimC give you the same advice earlier in this thread iirc. He is The Man! You are not the first guy to crater SPI epoxy. Some guys get pissed and stop using it. Most listen and get it right and never look back.Yup I did! Started with a 1.4 base gun no good, tried my 1.7 base gun that I use for primer same not good. Went to my 1.4 Tekna Prolite same.
Awesome!I’ve been painting on and off sine 1977…..
I’ve not done this. I know Barry said doing this solves a lot of problems. But I thought I would start with the basics. Heating primer is not intuitive nor in any of the documents. I’ve never done this before and its a little problematic as to how to hold the correct temp etc. I am trying to be systematic and NOT introduce more variables at this point.I've read the entire thread and don't recall that you tried Barry's suggestion to heat the primer. Have you? Again, if so, and it didn't help, then nevermind.
If it’s warmer more of the alcohol will flash off before it hits the panel. At least that is my understanding.I’ve not done this. I know Barry said doing this solves a lot of problems. But I thought I would start with the basics. Heating primer is not intuitive nor in any of the documents. I’ve never done this before and its a little problematic as to how to hold the correct temp etc. I am trying to be systematic and NOT introduce more variables at this point.