Not spraying well

I spray SPI white epoxy a lot. First time I sprayed it , years ago , looked like crater city. I didn't know that I sprayed first coat too thick. Once I found out what I did wrong and adjusted how I sprayed it, haven't had any problems since. My problem first time I used it was that I sprayed it wet and heavy like a regular primer.
 
I spray SPI white epoxy a lot. First time I sprayed it , years ago , looked like crater city. I didn't know that I sprayed first coat too thick. Once I found out what I did wrong and adjusted how I sprayed it, haven't had any problems since. My problem first time I used it was that I sprayed it wet and heavy like a regular primer.
Like a “regular” primer? What irregular about this primer? I am still “struggling “ and have a huge amount of rework. Not to mention down time from doing a lot of debugging.primer should be the easiest thing to spray regardless of color. To dry to wet doesn't flow out of the gun well? I am still thinking something is not working in my system correctly because this should be a simple job……
 
Like a “regular” primer? What irregular about this primer? I am still “struggling “ and have a huge amount of rework. Not to mention down time from doing a lot of debugging.primer should be the easiest thing to spray regardless of color. To dry to wet doesn't flow out of the gun well? I am still thinking something is not working in my system correctly because this should be a simple job……
White epoxy requires some finesse. Chris gave you some excellent advice. Spray it with your base gun. Put the primer gun away. I use my Iwata LPH400 LV 1.4

Don
 
You are using a product that you have not used in the past, and there is a learning curve. This particular epoxy is NOT the same as other brands, nor is it anything like the primers of yesterday, as this has high solids.

I don't believe that there is anything wrong with the epoxy, but that you need to learn how to shoot it. You have been given some great troubleshooting advice here, and you have been systematically eliminating possible sources.

Try reducing the epoxy 25% and see if it sprays out better. Just remember the advice to go medium film build on the first coat or you will get cratering. However it sprays out let us know, with pictures, so that we can go from there.

The problem is solvable if you have the patience to work it out. For me, the benefits of SPI epoxy are worth the extra learning curve.
 
Do you have one of those little plastic desiccant filters on the air inlet at the gun?

Those are known to cause problems, so if so, try removing it. If not, then nevermind.
 
I've read the entire thread and don't recall that you tried Barry's suggestion to heat the primer. Have you? Again, if so, and it didn't help, then nevermind.
 
It took me a while to learn how too spray epoxy 1:1 with a professional appearance. Many of my attempts looked like the OP's last picture. Did it really matter if it looked like crap, not really, since it was going to be sanded but, it allowed me to "learn" proper technics such as, gun adjustments that included psi, fan and fluid. Other things learned such as gun angle, distance control and speed control. It made me learn how to work the paint instead of the paint working me. The pro's here know how to work the paint, they know how to make adjustments on the fly when paint is not laying down correctly.

Once I made it thru the learning curve, I was able to lay down epoxy in a professional appearance.

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White epoxy requires some finesse. Chris gave you some excellent advice. Spray it with your base gun. Put the primer gun away. I use my Iwata LPH400 LV 1.4

Don
Yup I did! Started with a 1.4 base gun no good, tried my 1.7 base gun that I use for primer same not good. Went to my 1.4 Tekna Prolite same.
 
Do you have one of those little plastic desiccant filters on the air inlet at the gun?

Those are known to cause problems, so if so, try removing it. If not, then nevermind.
I do use a filter at the gun. Have been for years with no issues. I’ll remove it and see if that helps. Its new and its before the gun reg.
 

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Yup I did! Started with a 1.4 base gun no good, tried my 1.7 base gun that I use for primer same not good. Went to my 1.4 Tekna Prolite same.
Then take Chris’s advice. Go easy on the first coat. Increase your distance and reduce your overlap. Use a wide fan. Those craters are because it was sprayed too heavy too close. JimC give you the same advice earlier in this thread iirc. He is The Man! You are not the first guy to crater SPI epoxy. Some guys get pissed and stop using it. Most listen and get it right and never look back.

Don
 
I've read the entire thread and don't recall that you tried Barry's suggestion to heat the primer. Have you? Again, if so, and it didn't help, then nevermind.
I’ve not done this. I know Barry said doing this solves a lot of problems. But I thought I would start with the basics. Heating primer is not intuitive nor in any of the documents. I’ve never done this before and its a little problematic as to how to hold the correct temp etc. I am trying to be systematic and NOT introduce more variables at this point.
 
I’ve not done this. I know Barry said doing this solves a lot of problems. But I thought I would start with the basics. Heating primer is not intuitive nor in any of the documents. I’ve never done this before and its a little problematic as to how to hold the correct temp etc. I am trying to be systematic and NOT introduce more variables at this point.
If it’s warmer more of the alcohol will flash off before it hits the panel. At least that is my understanding.
 
So this is what it looks like on an area that looks fair. Notice the bubbles on the upper right pillar. If this is normal I am disappointed. Notice the coat is extremely light. I always spray light initial coat when applying epoxy. Its translucent at 1:1 and you can see through this. Those bubbles are not from a heavy coat.
 

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Nochain, how about I buy you another gallon of white spi epoxy to try? Would this help you out?
 
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