Not spraying well
- Thread starter Nochain
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MJM
Promoted Users
Like I've said before. I only call Barry when he's in the bathroom sitting on the potty.
Pentair Pentek 150071 Traditional Standard Filter Housing, 3/4" NPT #10 Clear Water Filter Housing with Mounting Bracket Cap and Pressure Relief Button, 10-Inch, Blue/Clear https://a.co/d/3OrJtF2
Use at your own risk as this is only rated to 120psi. I like to live on the edge. It’s a very inexpensive and very good design. I used a 10 inch pvc tube like this guy did.
Enjoy
MJM
Promoted Users
Which way is your air flow? Starting at the air pressure regulator...........is the air pressure regulator to adjust air pressure going into the desiccant filter, or is it regulating air coming out of the desiccant filter?
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Whitesnake
Newbie
Kinda sketchy but it’s not my shop lol. I’d at least have the regulator before it to cut the pressure down before that canister. It’s just a water filter housing. And personally I’d then put the filter after the desiccant incase anything gets by it. Just my 2 cents.
MJM
Promoted Users
Imho.......I now see why the OP has been having contamination issues. 1st is he using I believe a 30hp compressor which is being pushed way beyond its limits, producing lots of water / moisture. He is using the Motor Guard M60 filter to trap most of the water before being filtered thru the desiccant filter. I can see this working if he was panel painting. It would be sketchy painting the whole car, or even just the main body.
Using his current air supply set up, I would body panel paint if painting the car a solid color. Body panel painting metallic is sketchy and would take a pro to pull it off. I would also open up the M60 filter and let the filter dry out after use. Draining the compressor tank after each use and leaving the drain value open to air out after each use. If he doesn't open up the M60 filter it's only going to get saturated with water and his desiccant filter will be over worked and turn pink within a day, or two at best.
As far as his choice for using a water filter as a desiccant filter, I don't support this for safety reasons. I believe MP&C has posted about the ill effects of doing so. I'm not bashing the OP, only making suggestions to see him accomplish his goals as I'm sure everyone here is doing. I know money is an issue for just about everyone who wants to paint a vehicle. Imho it's better to step back, save some more money and purchase tools that will provide a better outcome, than try to perform using band-aid fix which usually in the long wrong cost you more money fixing issues.
I'd like to see the OP's air system starting from the air compressor tank to his regulators.
Using his current air supply set up, I would body panel paint if painting the car a solid color. Body panel painting metallic is sketchy and would take a pro to pull it off. I would also open up the M60 filter and let the filter dry out after use. Draining the compressor tank after each use and leaving the drain value open to air out after each use. If he doesn't open up the M60 filter it's only going to get saturated with water and his desiccant filter will be over worked and turn pink within a day, or two at best.
As far as his choice for using a water filter as a desiccant filter, I don't support this for safety reasons. I believe MP&C has posted about the ill effects of doing so. I'm not bashing the OP, only making suggestions to see him accomplish his goals as I'm sure everyone here is doing. I know money is an issue for just about everyone who wants to paint a vehicle. Imho it's better to step back, save some more money and purchase tools that will provide a better outcome, than try to perform using band-aid fix which usually in the long wrong cost you more money fixing issues.
I'd like to see the OP's air system starting from the air compressor tank to his regulators.
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Toolin
Promoted Users
Dean, What Brand of carb cleaner? Does it come in a bucket with a basket so you can soak the parts?
Lizer
Mad Scientist
The yellow whip in his picture is coming from the air compressor tank. It's first going through an oil/water separator before the M60, and then the desiccant. I'm running a 60 gallon compressor but have almost this exact same set up, except my desiccant canister is substantially smaller. This will keep his air dry, but his M60 will become saturated sooner than mine.
His issue resolved when he sprayed on a warmer day and the epoxy was warmer, so it's probably temperature related and not water contamination.
MJM
Promoted Users
I stayed out of the temperature conversation because I had sprayed my English Wheel project with another round of epoxy after applying fiberglass filler over weld joints when the temperature was 68 degrees. Cured for 24 hours at 68 degrees. I did not see any issues with how the epoxy laid down. Granted it was black epoxy and not white.
At least you've proven your set up works which should be a relief to the OP his air system is stable and reliable to use.
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I don’t think contamination was the issue. I brought it up because of the bubbling that I saw. Apparently its not all that uncommon. That supports the theory it was not contamination. Also the issue was seen on a test panel which has nothing to do with compressor capacity. I do believe the issue was mainly temperature and this material likes to adhere to itself while in an uncured state. Makes sense to me as I can and did successfully spray the car on the third coat on a 15 degree warmer day.
Here’s a view of the set up. I know its not ideal but this probably will be my last restoration.
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Just received my second gallon. Shot this today. Its 80F ambient. Sprays like a base coat. No issues. Used my Tekna Pro Lite with the KE20 cap at 29psi and the above system. Did all the panels and body (trunk was the only interior) ausing 2 - 800ml large cups for a total 1600ml ~less half the can. Used a 30 minute dwell. Car was cleaned and tacked. Again no issues with the third and fourth coats.
Compressor kicked on twice but handled it fine. Regulation was good. No drops.
Have a panel line thats bo straight that needs some TLC then a complete block out then hopefully ready for sealer and paint.
Compressor kicked on twice but handled it fine. Regulation was good. No drops.
Have a panel line thats bo straight that needs some TLC then a complete block out then hopefully ready for sealer and paint.
