Not spraying well

[jtfx6552]

If you let that last coat you showed flash, then sprayed a second wet coat, everything will be fine.

 

[elwood]

I do use a filter at the gun. Have been for years with no issues. I’ll remove it and see if that helps. Its new and its before the gun reg.

If there is a filter inside the cup get rid of it also. Paint can collect in it and clog things up.

 

[Lizer]

The second picture is characteristic pigment migration that can occur with this epoxy. I do agree from the picture it seems very light, but I've found that even if the gun gets too close at a spot, or you double back over a spot, you can risk pigment migration. I've never had that much though, it's only a small spot about the size of a half dollar.

 

[64avanti]

So this is what it looks like on an area that looks fair. Notice the bubbles on the upper right pillar. If this is normal I am disappointed. Notice the coat is extremely light. I always spray light initial coat when applying epoxy. Its translucent at 1:1 and you can see through this. Those bubbles are not from a heavy coat.

That looks like cratering to me. Or fish eye.

 

[64avanti]

I do use a filter at the gun. Have been for years with no issues. I’ll remove it and see if that helps. Its new and its before the gun reg.

I wonder if the digital regulator is causing the problem?

I would remove it and the filter, then adjust the pressure at the wall with the trigger fully pulled.

 

[DanMcG]

Can I ask what you're wiping it down with before you apply the epoxy?

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

So this is what it looks like on an area that looks fair. Notice the bubbles on the upper right pillar. If this is normal I am disappointed. Notice the coat is extremely light. I always spray light initial coat when applying epoxy. Its translucent at 1:1 and you can see through this. Those bubbles are not from a heavy coat.

Really pretty normal. We all get that from time to time. The one area is probably from where you had to much overlap or got the gun too close. Remember it's alcohol in the epoxy that cause the issue. Too heavy or too close and it craters. You got to spray the first coat light, especially with white. And have proper overlap, and proper gun distance. Move quickly.
For your first coat, cut your fluid down a touch more, be very robotic in your overlap, maintain gun distance, don't let it get too close. After the first coat you can relax a bit and spray a wetter coat. Not super wet, but wetter than your first.
Once you get the hang of it, it becomes easier.

P.S. Not exactly related but get rid of the filter at the gun. It doesn't help things.. I know you've said you've used it in the past. Doesn't matter, get rid of it, everything you spray will improve and perform better.

 

[crashtech]

I don't think I have anything on my bench that is more finicky than the white epoxy. I put up with it because I'm such a big fan of all its other excellent properties, but I have to say it's the one material that will make me look like a noob now and then.

 

[Nochain]

Can I ask what you're wiping it down with before you apply the epoxy?

SOI waterborne wax and grease remover.

 

[Nochain]

Thanks guys for your help and putting up with me on this. I removed the ball filter to the input of the gun. I am going to try for the second coat. Hopefully it will work better than the first. I sanded down the rough spots. Here are some pictures as this says more than I can type.

 

[Lizer]

Straight out of the tank I would put in a water/oil filter separator first before going into your Motorguard. You will overwhelm your M60 real fast which will then exhaust your desiccant faster. And those M60 filters are not cheap.

 

[MJM]

Straight out of the tank I would put in a water/oil filter separator first before going into your Motorguard. You will overwhelm your M60 real fast which will then exhaust your desiccant faster. And those M60 filters are not cheap.

Quoted for the truth. I don't care what air compressor a person owns. They all produced moisture / water. Some more than others. When I first started building my air system, I built a wall hung 3/4" - 72' of copper cooling manifold. Coupled that with a water / oil separator at the compressor tank. Then another 20' of 3/4" copper pipe to three in line separators, with desiccant filter. This did work if I purged water daily from the air compressor tank and water/oil regulators. I was still having to change desiccant beads every 3 to 4 days.

Got tired of changing desiccant beads so often, so I installed an automatic drain valve on the bottom of the air compressor tank, and added a cheap Harbor Freight Air dryer. That solved my issues for obtaining dry air. I still have to drain the oil water regulator at the tank daily.

3/4" copper cooling manifold

Wall regulators

Air dryer with bottom tank automatic drain valve.

 

[Nochain]

Yup those are nice and I have been planning on doing that but time and money…you know. I also don’t paint very often. Was going to use an trans oil cooler set up.

But the issues I am having is not from this. It happens right out of the gate cold system. The filter is new so is the huge desiccant dryer.

I am waiting for my final dwell time to finish my second coat of epoxy with pictures… stand back and stand by.

 

[MJM]

Money is a concern, at least it was for me. I didn't want to invest a lot in the air supply not knowing if I had what it takes to do body work and lay down paint. If I didn't have what it takes, than I had a descent system to air up the tires on my cars.

As it sits, I have $1,900 invested in my air supply.
Air compressor $950
Air dryer $350
Copper piping $300
Regulators $300.

 

[Lizer]

Yup those are nice and I have been planning on doing that but time and money…you know. I also don’t paint very often. Was going to use an trans oil cooler set up.

But the issues I am having is not from this. It happens right out of the gate cold system. The filter is new so is the huge desiccant dryer.

I am waiting for my final dwell time to finish my second coat of epoxy with pictures… stand back and stand by.

It will actually save you money to put a cheap water separator in front of your motor guard. Otherwise you will ruin a filter after just a few hrs and those filters are pricey. The transmission cooler will help a lot too.

 

[Nochain]

It will actually save you money to put a cheap water separator in front of your motor guard. Otherwise you will ruin a filter after just a few hrs and those filters are pricey. The transmission cooler will help a lot too.

Thanks I’ll do that asap. I can afford that lol.

 

[Nochain]

Ok here are a bunch of pictures. Second coat on. Coverage isn’t great (white over dark grey) as this stuff is pretty thin for epoxy. But what is very concerning is the bubble texture that I am getting. You guys say you have seen this before…..that’s concerning. Other texture issues can be seen. I can’t get it to laydown correctly. I’ve tried a lot of pressures and gun settings. The car is a test bed for gun and pressure settings yet the finish is rather consistent…..shitty in my opinion. Especially if I am going to use this as a sealer (which was my plan).

 

[Lizer]

The white will not have good coverage, that's normal. I've only sprayed white once and it was for a white corvette; I didn't like it. Unless it's going to be a black car, I use gray for everything. A good quality white base will still readily cover gray.

 

[crashtech]

White epoxy can be a challenging material. My recommendation at this point is to get a quart of black epoxy #6620 and intermix it with the white, this will result in less of a learning curve for this material.

 

[Nochain]

The test pattern on the left is the final.