57 Chevy Nomad
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B
Bob Hollinshead
Fred, awesome work!!! Your eye for contour and dedication are once again inspiring! I'm sure everyone following along appreciates the step by step process explained and shown in the photos. That car is going to be a pleasure for you to block and very high quality. Do you have a chromer lined up?
Thanks Bob, yes I do have a chrome shop that is willing to do the plating and allow me to do the repairs, sanding, and buffing, although it will require a lot of trips. They gave me full approval to use "muggy weld" for pot metal repairs. It sounds a lot like one of the voodoo miracle working products, but it apparently does work, I'll keep you posted on that. I already ordered some and made a quick stab at trying it, but its going to take a little practice (like everything else) and it is expensive, so I will use all my first order just for practice.
http://www.muggyweld.com/?view=home
For the bumpers I have been steered to a product from Alstate which is "silver solder dynagrip #430" I got that recommendation from a large resto shop in Portland thats does high quality work, Steve's Auto Restoration, and they use a lot of the silver solder. And its also said to be a good match for stainless steel repairs. My thought is that if I spend enough time on the bumpers and trim that I can get them a lot straighter than a plater is willing to do, and end up with less material ground off. Far better than the repro stuff, and of course the original parts fit better.
I'm glad that I sent almost all the stainless off for buffing when I had a weak moment and trusted someone else to do it. But I did clean, fit, and dull the edges of it first. I wrapped each piece in double layer paper and put them in the box to be shipped for buffing---the guy did not appreciate it. LOL
http://www.muggyweld.com/?view=home
For the bumpers I have been steered to a product from Alstate which is "silver solder dynagrip #430" I got that recommendation from a large resto shop in Portland thats does high quality work, Steve's Auto Restoration, and they use a lot of the silver solder. And its also said to be a good match for stainless steel repairs. My thought is that if I spend enough time on the bumpers and trim that I can get them a lot straighter than a plater is willing to do, and end up with less material ground off. Far better than the repro stuff, and of course the original parts fit better.
I'm glad that I sent almost all the stainless off for buffing when I had a weak moment and trusted someone else to do it. But I did clean, fit, and dull the edges of it first. I wrapped each piece in double layer paper and put them in the box to be shipped for buffing---the guy did not appreciate it. LOL
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Man Fred, you are killing my self esteem. LOL
Like Bob said, this post is very inspiring. You no doubt have the patience of Job.
Like Bob said, this post is very inspiring. You no doubt have the patience of Job.
I wouldn't want to mess with your self esteem Jim, I didn't mean I wouldn't trust you to come up here to the cold country and do some sanding anytime you like. BTW, I love the weather in your part of the country.
Here is what I'm going to try and maintain throughout the plating and painting process. The trim has been block sanded and ready for filler, then copper plating and more sanding.
I started out with the worse trim pieces I had for practice, and used a brass hammer to beat the back side and stretch it. You can see a low area on the hood bar in the first picture, and that is where it has a bracket and mounting stud, so that area couldn't move. But these so-called worse ones turned out so good that I kept them, its surprising how much that stuff will move when its warmed up.
Here is what I'm going to try and maintain throughout the plating and painting process. The trim has been block sanded and ready for filler, then copper plating and more sanding.
I started out with the worse trim pieces I had for practice, and used a brass hammer to beat the back side and stretch it. You can see a low area on the hood bar in the first picture, and that is where it has a bracket and mounting stud, so that area couldn't move. But these so-called worse ones turned out so good that I kept them, its surprising how much that stuff will move when its warmed up.
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R
Rustbuster77
WOW, very clean work!
I wasn't happy with the lead work on the cowl and hood so it was all removed and redone
The tail gate had its share of bumps as well as the bumper. It took a much larger hammer for the bumper though
Tried to make use of the chrome reflection before getting it stripped.
Then the same procedures used on the doors were used to fix the side gaps
The gate was adjusted as low as possible and still had too much gap at the bottom and I didn't want to do any welding on the bottom if it wasn't necessary, so decided to shave some off the henge for proper fit. They are just cast iron and not that precise and neither is the area where they rest, so its not that unusual for them to be off here, LOL and actually everywhere else also. It will be getting new pins and bushings
Now that the 1/4s are permanately installed, it was time to finish the trim fit before sending it off for straightening and buffing. What a PITA it is to get that all to work together.
With the clearance on the doors so tight, I was concerned about removing them and being able to get them lined up in the exact same spot. I know a lot of people drill a 1/8 inch hole in the henge as a guide for realignment, and I have done that before also, but I needed a more precise hole for this. So I decided to drill and tap holes, and wanted as small a hole in fine thread as I could get---just seemed like it would be more accurate.
Right side door needed more work, but with the edges all set it would be a lot easier to do it off the car. My engine stand would be good for this but its busy right now, so HF had a sale on stands---lucky me. I sure wouldn't want to put the 700 pounds on this stand that it is rated for.
Its a short stand anyway and with the casters off its just the right size for me in my seat.
The tail gate had its share of bumps as well as the bumper. It took a much larger hammer for the bumper though
Tried to make use of the chrome reflection before getting it stripped.
Then the same procedures used on the doors were used to fix the side gaps
The gate was adjusted as low as possible and still had too much gap at the bottom and I didn't want to do any welding on the bottom if it wasn't necessary, so decided to shave some off the henge for proper fit. They are just cast iron and not that precise and neither is the area where they rest, so its not that unusual for them to be off here, LOL and actually everywhere else also. It will be getting new pins and bushings
Now that the 1/4s are permanately installed, it was time to finish the trim fit before sending it off for straightening and buffing. What a PITA it is to get that all to work together.
With the clearance on the doors so tight, I was concerned about removing them and being able to get them lined up in the exact same spot. I know a lot of people drill a 1/8 inch hole in the henge as a guide for realignment, and I have done that before also, but I needed a more precise hole for this. So I decided to drill and tap holes, and wanted as small a hole in fine thread as I could get---just seemed like it would be more accurate.
Right side door needed more work, but with the edges all set it would be a lot easier to do it off the car. My engine stand would be good for this but its busy right now, so HF had a sale on stands---lucky me. I sure wouldn't want to put the 700 pounds on this stand that it is rated for.
Its a short stand anyway and with the casters off its just the right size for me in my seat.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
crashtech;22882 said:
This thread should be a sticky for all to reference from time to time. I have read and re-read it and am still amazed at his talent and dedication.
Thanks guys.
Finally getting a little work done.
It was mentioned in the beginning that the Nomad was a clean car to start with, but now its rust free.
These older cars didn't have a rail inside the doors, so a palm sander fit in there easy.
Poured some epoxy in and rolled it around.
Now its time to finish the 1/4s. The problem is that nomads are notorious for showing a crack on the top front of the 1/4 panel at the body line where the fin turns up onto the B pillar, and I have been thinking for some time now just how to deal with that, and thats why I haven't finished off that area yet even though the 1/4s have been permanently installed.
The originals were just spot welded in and filled with lead. But in trying to find a better way, I plug welded then welded the whole seam, and that still left a depression about double the thickness of the 20 ga sheet metal. So a piece of metal the appropriate gage was cut and welded in.
And ground off
The area is a little different on the two sides because both 1/4's were replaced and original Nomad 1/4s were not available. So 1/4's were used from a 2 door handyman wagon because they are the same everywhere except all down the top from front to rear. The right side was first to get fitted and I didn't think I could form this fin area from the way the handyman wagon was made. But as you have seen, the left side came out good and was done later on. So a piece about 8'' by 10'' was cut from the extra 1/4, then formed and bonded on the bottom side of the 1/4.
The fin area was welded in completely and an appropriate piece of metal was cut and welded in. I knew tig welding would be too much heat for the adhesive, so all the welding on both sides was done with a mig, and the bottom line was done with a series of spot welds after much testing on scrap metal that was bonded similarly.
Finally getting a little work done.
It was mentioned in the beginning that the Nomad was a clean car to start with, but now its rust free.
These older cars didn't have a rail inside the doors, so a palm sander fit in there easy.
Poured some epoxy in and rolled it around.
Now its time to finish the 1/4s. The problem is that nomads are notorious for showing a crack on the top front of the 1/4 panel at the body line where the fin turns up onto the B pillar, and I have been thinking for some time now just how to deal with that, and thats why I haven't finished off that area yet even though the 1/4s have been permanently installed.
The originals were just spot welded in and filled with lead. But in trying to find a better way, I plug welded then welded the whole seam, and that still left a depression about double the thickness of the 20 ga sheet metal. So a piece of metal the appropriate gage was cut and welded in.
And ground off
The area is a little different on the two sides because both 1/4's were replaced and original Nomad 1/4s were not available. So 1/4's were used from a 2 door handyman wagon because they are the same everywhere except all down the top from front to rear. The right side was first to get fitted and I didn't think I could form this fin area from the way the handyman wagon was made. But as you have seen, the left side came out good and was done later on. So a piece about 8'' by 10'' was cut from the extra 1/4, then formed and bonded on the bottom side of the 1/4.
The fin area was welded in completely and an appropriate piece of metal was cut and welded in. I knew tig welding would be too much heat for the adhesive, so all the welding on both sides was done with a mig, and the bottom line was done with a series of spot welds after much testing on scrap metal that was bonded similarly.
Thanks for the kind words guys.
Pugsy I take my panels in to get them stripped of paint and rust, its just money well spent to me. If the rust is not too bad they go to the acid stripper who uses phosphoric acid (the only kind I would allow) And if the rust is bad then its electrolysis cleaning---which cost about 3 times as much but its 3 times better.
Pugsy I take my panels in to get them stripped of paint and rust, its just money well spent to me. If the rust is not too bad they go to the acid stripper who uses phosphoric acid (the only kind I would allow) And if the rust is bad then its electrolysis cleaning---which cost about 3 times as much but its 3 times better.
B
Bob Hollinshead
Fred, keep the photos coming, awesome work as usual! Blocking will go very easy for you given the quality of the metal work you're doing!
B
BLURAT
CHEVMAN,
I happened upon your post after visiting the SPI site. I had become aware of SPI some years back and forgotten about them until recently as I am going to be painting my 69SS Chevelle soon. This SPI board is an absolute GOLDMINE of outstanding information and more importantly, great energy. The can- do and positive attitude by all is incredible. I found the 57 Nomad topic late last night and had to register got this board.
Anyway, CHEVMAN, your work is just outstanding. Very inspirational. I recall that you made some references to hood hinge issues. I am sure you have this covered, but I'd you don't, please note that SMS-Auto and www.hoodhingerestoration.com offer awesome hood hinge restoration services. I get really baffled at all the amazing cars out there running the worn out, floppy hinges, with the the rear hood corners popped up ! Anyhow, keep up the great work and I hope to see photos of the final work. Any plans on the color and is this a straight stock resto?
Thanks Again Sir !
Regards, Shawn
I happened upon your post after visiting the SPI site. I had become aware of SPI some years back and forgotten about them until recently as I am going to be painting my 69SS Chevelle soon. This SPI board is an absolute GOLDMINE of outstanding information and more importantly, great energy. The can- do and positive attitude by all is incredible. I found the 57 Nomad topic late last night and had to register got this board.
Anyway, CHEVMAN, your work is just outstanding. Very inspirational. I recall that you made some references to hood hinge issues. I am sure you have this covered, but I'd you don't, please note that SMS-Auto and www.hoodhingerestoration.com offer awesome hood hinge restoration services. I get really baffled at all the amazing cars out there running the worn out, floppy hinges, with the the rear hood corners popped up ! Anyhow, keep up the great work and I hope to see photos of the final work. Any plans on the color and is this a straight stock resto?
Thanks Again Sir !
Regards, Shawn
Thanks for the words guys. Bob, if a slow trickle of pictures is acceptable, then I will keep them coming.
Yes Shawn I do have the hood henge problem solved to my surprise. I bought a set of henges for a mustang several years ago and they weren't even close enough to modify, so I didn't have much hope when I ordered new henges for the Nomad. But these are right on, they look and fit just like the original and I don't even know who the manufacturer is, they are not marked.
Yes Shawn I do have the hood henge problem solved to my surprise. I bought a set of henges for a mustang several years ago and they weren't even close enough to modify, so I didn't have much hope when I ordered new henges for the Nomad. But these are right on, they look and fit just like the original and I don't even know who the manufacturer is, they are not marked.
B
Bob Hollinshead
Fred everybody here appreciates the photos you post, glad you're making progress!
The owner keeps saying, jokingly "Just put a clear coat on it and call it done." Well, I do at least have some good photos, and here is a photo of the worst panel that was on the car. This is after the first epoxy block sanding session. You can see some remnants of one of the creases in the front lower part of the door.
It took a couple more coats to fill it in, but then I found a low area about 5 inches round and had to work that area up.
It took a couple more coats to fill it in, but then I found a low area about 5 inches round and had to work that area up.
B
Bob Hollinshead
Blocking nice!