57 Chevy Nomad

[chevman]

This is a project that I'm doing for a friend, and I told him in the beginning that it would be a learning experience for me. He has a lot of trust in me.LOL My problem has been a matter of time to devote to the work that I like so much, but now I'm retired, so its just a matter of getting off the computer and getting to it.

The car was very solid when I started, but after stripping, the 1/4's and fenders were just scraped so bad, that I replaced them. I couldn't find a replacement right door, so I had to straighten it. Sorry, I don't have any before pictures.

Here is the replacement 1/4 for the left side. Its a little rough, but I have another one with severe top damage and rust that I can cut from.

When I started this project I bought a tig welder to work with, but my first attempts were not satisfactory

Then after researching all about tig welding and watching videos, I bought a 6 inch hand shrear to cut scraps of metal, and practiced for a couple of weeks. Then I felt good enough to try the 1/4 patching job. This is the extra left 1/4 that I can cut a patch panel from

After thinking about this I decided to compare a rocker panel to the 1/4 to use as a patch panel, and it seemed to be almost perfect. The rocker is from a 56 4 door chevy

I had a little hammer and dolly experience, but stretching welds required a lot research and practice

I put a cut line on the 1/4 panel with a pencil

And cut out the rust

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Very nice work.

 

[Deleted member 7]

Looks like a pro did it to me... Outstanding work,. You obviously have a talent for this!!!

 

[Barry]

That is some fine metal work!

 

[chevman]

Thanks guys, I have this whole project posted on another web site so I wasn't going to post it here, but Shine said that if someone wants to enter the discussion then he should show what he is doing. And I do want to be a part of the discussion, because you guys really get into the reasons for doing things a certain way, instead of just telling someone this is the way. Its kind of like the old saying----give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach him how to fish and feed him for a lifetime.



Back to the Nomad.

The whole 1/4 panel will be bonded, except for this little fin and around the taillight area, but I'm trying something a little different for the weld thru primer here. After the plug weld holes were drilled, I used the lead tinning process to coat both sides. Hopefully that will keep the tinning acid from rusting the seam later, if I decide to lead the seam. I think every lead filled seam I have ever taken apart has been rusted.

This repair was due to the pinch weld area being rusted so thin and the 1/4 panel being bent out of shape causing three cracks and bad fit for the trim. The 1/4 was first straightened, then the patch and cracks were welded and stretched out to its original shape.

It took a lot of persuasion to get the trim to fit like I wanted

And of course the bumpers and taillights need to fit right also

And the front

Next, was the tail pan, its a common rust area on the old chevys. The cargo floor was removed and all the braces were sand blasted and primed. Then the top part was made by hammerforming.

The top part was bonded to the lower part of the reproduction panel

Here is the part that actually has taken some much of my time

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

The straightness of that metal work is unbelievable! Have you kept track of how many hours have gone into this job? I'd like to watch your work shrinking those crowns out of each panel-something I've alsways struggled with, and that body design had some major bows in each panel. Very nice work!

 

[Senile Old Fart]

Very nice indeed! You are showing some great metal working skills getting those panels that straight .

 

[chevman]

You are the man Bob, your kind words mean a lot to me. And after seeing just a glimse of the black 69 camaro, I knew you would appreciate a straight body.
No, I haven't kept track of the time, but its going to be all in vain if I don't get squared away with the paint. Barry is trying hard to help me, but I'm having all kinds of problems with the primer. LOL

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

Please keep us updated with more progress photos. What color is it going to be? I think you've found the best forum for paint related questions. What primer problems are you having?

 

[Deleted member 7]

Amazing metal work.. Makes anything I do look like complete hackery sir.. U and Aaron do things I wish I knew how to do!!!!! That is inspiring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[chevman]

BK, this is exactly what I meant with my fish story. Painting is easy for you because you know what works, and metal work is no different in that respect, it just takes longer to understand what works. I'm also trying hard to understand what you know. Thanks for the knighthood and the comments.

Bob, my primer problems were related to air pressure, new gun, and fluid setting. I think we have that part worked out. The car is all original yellow and white, with A/C, PS, PB, and I'm adding original looking PW. It lived a fairly sheltered life in Oklahoma and has a little over 100,000 miles on it.

I do have a few more pics of some of the components

New foam for front and back seats

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

. . . I'd like to watch your work shrinking those crowns out of each panel-something I've always struggled with . . .

Yes, it would help me also to see the proper techniques in getting panels that straight as well. I read of shrinking discs and stretching welds but really don't understand how to go about it without risking making things worse. I try to hammer my welds flat while they are still hot but that's the extent of it.

 

[chevman]

I used the shrinking disc on one stubborn area, but I like the stud welder better, because it is controlled shrinking. You know exactly where you are shrinking and how much---Its just a lot slower. It works so good, that if you want to, you can make a small dimple noticable on the back side.
I have been priming the 1/4 panels with epoxy and block sanding with them off the car lately------outside, in between rain drops, and when the air and fluid works right. But the reason is that I want to make sure that I didn't miss any high spots, so then I can prime the inside knowing that I won't have to shrink anymore. I just don't want to burn any paint off the inside of any panels.
I know a lot of guys use the shrinking disc, but to use it on a panel to get this effect, I wonder about the metal being brittle. I mean to heat the panel and rapidly cool with water several times over and over.

 

[shine]

that's top shelf work my friend.

 

[chevman]

that's top shelf work my friend.

Thanks Shine, does that mean that I can join the conversation now?

 

[shine]

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[Bob Hollinshead]

Top shelf metal work I totally agree! I would have guessed you used the shinking disc for most of the crown removal. I have overshrunk with the disc so I know it isn't foolproof, I do use the stud gun but there's always some distortion to deal with but much more controlable than the torch. I usually need to work the front edge of the quarters outward. Fitting the doors is a lot easier if I'm replacing the skins-this way they can be fit well and the crown worked out while the skin is loose-once it's welded It makes it more difficult to work the shape I have found. Then fitting the fender and modifying the shape can be a pita along with getting door clearance for the designs where the front of the door swings into the fender. It's all a lot of work and testing with straight edges. Doors sometimes grow slightly in length.
chevman, that shiny metal finish highlights just how well contoured it is and shows that you have great control over that old steel- a work of art IMO.

 

[chevman]

Sorry Shine, just a bad joke.

Bob I think having to replace the 1/4s anyway, was a big help in doing this. I did the shrinking in waves to control distortion, and as I said, the brace on the fenders was loosened. I used the little shrinker stretcher jaws on the flanges of the 1/4s and fenders to get the contour that I wanted, and worked from the seam. But things were constantly changing, so readjustments were constant. A friend kept asking if the 1/4s were mounted yet, but had to keep readjusting them until everything was done.

There were lots of problems, such as the bottom of the fenders. They didn't want to point straight ahead, and working with the wheel opening lip. I didn't realize that there was a guy down in Indiana that I could have ask questions.
But you are right about making the overall contour right. The best complement that I have had was not from a car guy. He looked the whole thing over and said "I don't understand what you did to it, isn't this the way its supposed to look." I just said Yeah, I think so.

 

[shine]

no problem chevyman . just thought i might be in trouble again .
to be honest i will not miss metal work. my hands and wrist just cant take the beating anymore. i think back to the days before mig or tigs or shrinking tools. god it was tuff. only thing we had was a oxy torch and cold water . i've stick welded a lot of sheet metal in my day. looking forward to getting back to glass . no dents , no welding , no rust , no fuss .

 

[chevman]

When I was researching on this I ordered a video from David Gardiner. That guy can do some metal work, but it just makes you wonder why his arm doesn't fall off. He makes fenders with hand tools.