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1968 Plymouth GTX

#64
K-frame and calipers in epoxy:
K-Frame in Epoxy.JPG

Brake Calipers in Epoxy.JPG

Used the 3M 4274 Duramix NVH sealer and reassembled the hood. Clamped it together for now and then after the 24 hour cure period I will attempt to spot weld it together.

Sometimes my welding attempts go really easy and sometimes I blow holes in everything.
 
#66
Spot welded the hood back together today.
Hood Spot Welds.JPG
Hood Spot Welds 1.JPG

My MIG has a Stitch and Spot weld selector. I had a terrible time getting it set right. Get one perfect 3 second weld and the next would blow through. Finally flattened a piece of 3/4" copper pipe and clamped it behind the weld area as a heat sink. That helped a lot.

Ran a DA over the epoxy to find the low spots:
Hood Epoxy Sanded 1.JPG
Circled the trouble areas:
Hood Low Spots Circled 1.JPG

Here is my Disaster Area. Someone took a pick and performed what I call a "cave and pave" in the center of the hood. Used a hammer and dolly to flattened the tiny dents which caused a very large high spot. This will be a good place to learn how to use my new shrinking disc and slap hammer from Wray Schelin. :cool:
Hood Diaster Area.JPG
 
#67
The sway bar mounting brackets came in this week.
I mounted them to check the fit and the top flange and bolt hole lined up perfectly.
Sway Bar Braket 1.JPG

The lower flange area however has about an 1/8" gap:
Sway Bar Bracket.JPG

Looks like I should have left some of the old weld on there instead of grinding them flat.
 
#69
Began the process of removing the roof skin:
Roof Removal.JPG
I hope to remove all the rust, repair and reinstall the original skin. Time will tell if that is possible.
Also scored some fender mounted turn signals in very nice shape on eBay, plus a padded astray front. It's scary what these used parts are selling for now days. Reproduction turn signals are over $300 a pair and the padded ashtrays aren't reproduced as far as I can tell. Used ashtrays in the $250 range. :eek:

Got the turn signals for $83 shipped and the ashtray front for $61 shipped.
Fender Mounted Turn Signals.JPG
Ashtray Padded.JPG
 
#70
Began the process of removing the roof skin:
View attachment 6951
I hope to remove all the rust, repair and reinstall the original skin. Time will tell if that is possible.
Also scored some fender mounted turn signals in very nice shape on eBay, plus a padded astray front. It's scary what these used parts are selling for now days. Reproduction turn signals are over $300 a pair and the padded ashtrays aren't reproduced as far as I can tell. Used ashtrays in the $250 range. :eek:

Got the turn signals for $83 shipped and the ashtray front for $61 shipped.
View attachment 6952
View attachment 6953
I know a guy who's been collecting mopar parts for decades. Saw him at swap meet about 5-6 years ago and asked what he had for sale.. He laughed at me and said "I don't sell this stuff... I'm buying as much as I can because its money in the bank". GENIUS!!! BTW - Project looks great!!!
 
#71
Spot welded the hood back together today.
View attachment 6887
View attachment 6888

My MIG has a Stitch and Spot weld selector. I had a terrible time getting it set right. Get one perfect 3 second weld and the next would blow through. Finally flattened a piece of 3/4" copper pipe and clamped it behind the weld area as a heat sink. That helped a lot.

Ran a DA over the epoxy to find the low spots:
View attachment 6889
Circled the trouble areas:
View attachment 6890

Here is my Disaster Area. Someone took a pick and performed what I call a "cave and pave" in the center of the hood. Used a hammer and dolly to flattened the tiny dents which caused a very large high spot. This will be a good place to learn how to use my new shrinking disc and slap hammer from Wray Schelin. :cool:
View attachment 6891
Wish I could look over your shoulder during the shrinking disc and slap hammer procedure...
 
#72
Wish I could look over your shoulder during the shrinking disc and slap hammer procedure...
Ha, I am a rank amateur at best. Purchased the Wray Schelin video so I could see how it is supposed to be done.
Chevman, MP&C and a few others on here are the pros.

I can say that it takes patience and a lot of time to work metal. I have to fight the temptation to just grab the filler and be done with it. LOL
 
#74
Stripping that old build primer off the paint so I can see what's under there.
The roof doesn't appear to have hardly any of the original paint left:
Roof Being Stripped.JPG

Right quarter panel has had work done on it:
Quarter Panel Right Previous Repair.JPG

Common problem I find when working on these older cars is rust under the filler:
Rust under Filler.JPG

Some brazing work done on the left Sail Panel:
Sail Panel Left Previous Repair.JPG

Removed the rest of the lead from the roof skin seams:
Roof Skin Lead Removed Front Right.JPG
Roof Skin Lead Removed Sail Panel Left.JPG

Next up is drilling spot welds until I can't stand it any longer. LOL
 
#75
Ugh! Removing the roof skin is proving to be more difficult than I had hoped.
Using a 5/16" spot weld drill I was making good progress on the A-pillar and windshield flange. Drill the holes and then insert a small chisel between the flanges and it would pop loose.
A Pillar.JPG
Windshield Flange.JPG

There are over twenty spot welds up each side of the rear window spaced about 3/4" apart. The spacing increases along the top flange.
Back Window Flange.JPG

The problem area is the drip rails. The 5/16" spot weld cutter didn't get all of the weld in a number of holes. Just a little sliver along the perimeter of the hole but enough to require leverage to break the roof skin free. The problem is that there is no room to apply such leverage or insert a chisel to pop the skin free.
Drip Rail.JPG

I ended up destroying the driver's side drip rail just trying to get the roof skin to break loose. Not a big loss since the drip rail was much more rusted than it appeared to be but still frustrating.

My plan is to use a 3/8" spot weld cutter on the passenger side drip rail to see if it makes an difference.

If I hadn't planned on reusing the roof skin (something that may not happen either) a better method would have been to use a cut off tool and cut through the roof skin about 1" above the drip rail flange. That would allow removal of the skin and give access to the drip rail welds for easy removal without damaging the drip rails.

Oh well, a live and learn moment.
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#76
This looks like it might be the ticket. It will give me plenty of work time and doesn't shrink. Thanks.
I have used this for over 20 years and its exactly what the factory used, never a problem. May be closer to 25-30 years 90 or 92 era.

NVH Dampening Duramix # 04274 I think is new 3m number but you found it,
 
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Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#77
Fender tag lists the Paint as QQ1 which from what I can tell is the Electric Blue Metallic.
Don't try to make with the silver the silver you have in that can has the wrong metallic for that color, it will never be right.
Also is it not the blue and plum purple that brings the highest dollar for these cars at the auctions? I don't have no facts but my guess is that color is a goldmine.!! From what I have seen.
 
#78
Don't try to make with the silver the silver you have in that can has the wrong metallic for that color, it will never be right.
Also is it not the blue and plum purple that brings the highest dollar for these cars at the auctions? I don't have no facts but my guess is that color is a goldmine.!! From what I have seen.
Thanks Barry. I appreciate you saving me some time and materials.
 
#79
The roof skin is off and looks much worse that I thought it would.
Roof Skin Underside.JPG
Roof Skin Underside 1.JPG

Structure has some spots of heavy rust as well:
Roof Structure Sail panel Rust 1.JPG Roof Structure Sail panel Rust.JPG

Drip rail area:
Drip Rail Removal.JPG

Some media blasting and patching on the structure ahead. Looks like I be placing an order for a roof skin and drip rails in the near future as well.
 
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