1968 Plymouth GTX

I am trying to find pictures of the factory disc brake set up on a 1968 GTX but no luck so far. Posted for help on b-bodies only site.
 
Thanks Eddie but it looks like what I already have in a .pdf file. Might be more detailed but I cannot tell from the pictures they give.
Mine shows the exploded views and then you have an option to click on tab that pulls up the different part numbers like I posted above.
1542938506534.png


1542938539943.png
 
Pulled the rear axle assembly:
Axle Assembly.JPG

Axle Assembly 1.JPG


Installed my homemade stands. I built these from pick up bed camper jacks and wheels from scaffolding. One wheel on the front and back has a lock to hold it stationary.
Homemade Stand Front.JPG

Homemade Stand Rear.JPG


Just proof that I am a hack compared to the pros on here.
 
I found a gallon of SPI Silver base coat in my cabinet. Now I am thinking I may experiment with some Sky Blue Pearl and see if I can produce something close to the factory QQ1 Electric blue that came on the car only with a custom look.
 
The underside of the hood needed to be removed so I can get all the rust out.
Hood Separated.JPG


You can see in this next picture that adhesive had let go and the inner support at the bottom of the picture as loose.
Hood Separated 2.JPG


Underside of the support structure looks good for a 50 year old car.
Hood Separated 1.JPG

Hood Support Structure.JPG


A bunch left to do on this project.
 

Brad J.

Oldtimer
Wow, how you going to tackle the rust removal on the hood skin?

It's brave for guys to make custom tints. I do enough small blended touchups on 20 year old restorations that I never stray from an easy formula for a complete job and make sure I have a gallon or so leftover on the shelf that I don't give to the customer to lose or set in a wet corner of their basement.

I know absolutely nothing about mopars but this looks like a pretty clean project. Nice job.
 
Wow, how you going to tackle the rust removal on the hood skin?

It's brave for guys to make custom tints. I do enough small blended touchups on 20 year old restorations that I never stray from an easy formula for a complete job and make sure I have a gallon or so leftover on the shelf that I don't give to the customer to lose or set in a wet corner of their basement.

I know absolutely nothing about mopars but this looks like a pretty clean project. Nice job.
I ordered a quart of the QQ1 Electric Blue for comparison purposes. If it looks good then I will probably stick with the factory color.
My plan for the rust is a very low pressure blasting.

I am not sure about what adhesive to use in reattaching everything. The globs left on the hood were all nearly 1/4" thick and a little larger than the size of quarter. (Gee I was about to say the size of a 1/2 dollar but wondered if some people have ever seen one?)
 
I was thinking seam sealer, hadn't considered window adhesive.
Removed the center support and found the problem bolt and nut. Plus you can see the remnants of the mouse nest that was under there.
Hood Catch Nut Broken.JPG
 

old soul

Member
About 2 decades ago I used some urethane sealer (for windshields) between a new door skin and the inner crash bar. The sealer shrunk and pulled
little divots all across the new door skin. I think 3M and Lord Fusor have flexible foam products just for this application.
 
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