K
kmatch
ProSpray sounds good, but considering it being nearly double in cost for an unknown (to me) and mail order, it just doesn't give me good vibes for the job at hand.
K
kmatch
Us po' folks jus' don' git no respect. Dude, as long as you're as helpful as in this thread, how about keeping that promise you made in your second reply? I thought you just had a bad day. I was wrong. It happens.
J
jeremyb
employee of mine does lot work at his house occasionally on the side and just about all he uses is omni base. does fine for what he's doing. Myself personally, wouldn't touch it. But what we do at work is totally different that what he is doing in his shop in the backyard. Same goes for anything i paint myself. Different strokes for different folks. You would rather use the paint store you know because they are convienent and thats what they carry and their stuff fits your budget...completely understand that. But i would seriously consider the pro spray. Have you priced it vs the omni or nason? I've never used it but i've seen nothing but good raves on it here and other places. I know you have a budget, but i just hate to see guys get this far skimp on the color. You've already found SPI..there are a lot of cheaper priced clears than the uv you are using and you get cheaper quality along with that price...but since you've used the spi you wont turn back will you?
K
kmatch
Researching Omni, it seems to be hated worse than Rustoleum. No thanks, although that does surprise me coming from PPG. Why? You trying to pawn some off on someone? LOL!
K
kmatch
jeremyb;3292 said:
Prospray was considerably higher than my local choices - twice in some cases. More expensive paint won't make me a painter. Painting is a hobby so I can afford the time to fix mistakes and such as my income isn't dependent on this as many of the guys defending going up a notch. Some make me laugh getting so worked up about it, I wonder why they don't call the manufacture and insist they close the doors for selling such horrible crap. Selling some poor slob POR making him think he'll make it onstage at Barrett Jackson is pretty bad, just the same as spraying HOK pearls onto a CJ7 and beating it around the woods. My project and skills calls for a middle of the line product and knowing where one stands is job one.
SPI primer suits me for its rust protecting abilities around the gulf coast. SPI clear suits me because it sounds forgiving for scuff and buff which will be needed for any mistakes I make such as dust and a possible run or 2. What goes in between requires it to look decent and stick. That's it. This car will be driven daily and maybe even washed sometimes.
I've used Nason before and liked it. Folks all over the net like it. It's kind of a pain to get, but doable within a day or so, so that's what I'm using. Those that are offended? Hah! I'm accepting donations for anyone who thinks I should step it up! LOL!
A
ADTKART
When considering the price, make sure that you consider the amount of materials you will be using. If you need to shoot 4-6 coats of Nason or another lower priced brand, instead of 2-3 coats of a higher quality, then you have to adjust the prices to make up for that. I understand budgets, but sometimes that means you wait a little longer. If you look at the budget and decide that way, you may be sorry. Let's say your budget is $1000, and it would take $1200 to use a better paint, then why not wait until the additional $200 is available? If you do it with the cheaper paint, then you may wish you had gone the better way. Not to do it will cost you another $1200, instead of the original additional $200.
I don't know what prices you have gotten, or sure about the color, but the Pro Spray has very good coverage. As I stated earlier, I got complete coverage in 2 coats over white epoxy sealer. The car I am working on is a 73 Mustang. It is one of the largest Mustangs made when it comes to paintable areas. Three quarts would have given me plenty to repair quite a few screw-ups, even doing the insides of the hood, trunk lid and doors.
You are right to believe that a higher quality paint won't make you a professional painter. A cheaper, low quality paint will make it harder to produce an acceptable paint job.
Most people here know me. I am not a professional painter. I usually paint 1 or 2 cars a year, but my main thing is bodywork. For a long time I used cheaper paint guns, figuring that a good gun was not going to make me a painter. One day I borrowed a SATA from a friend of mine. I found out what a difference quality makes. Now I have an Iwata that I purchased a while back. Can't figure out why I didn't listen to the experts sooner.
BTW..... If you would add your location to your profile, you may find that there is someone that is close to you and willing to help.
Aaron
I don't know what prices you have gotten, or sure about the color, but the Pro Spray has very good coverage. As I stated earlier, I got complete coverage in 2 coats over white epoxy sealer. The car I am working on is a 73 Mustang. It is one of the largest Mustangs made when it comes to paintable areas. Three quarts would have given me plenty to repair quite a few screw-ups, even doing the insides of the hood, trunk lid and doors.
You are right to believe that a higher quality paint won't make you a professional painter. A cheaper, low quality paint will make it harder to produce an acceptable paint job.
Most people here know me. I am not a professional painter. I usually paint 1 or 2 cars a year, but my main thing is bodywork. For a long time I used cheaper paint guns, figuring that a good gun was not going to make me a painter. One day I borrowed a SATA from a friend of mine. I found out what a difference quality makes. Now I have an Iwata that I purchased a while back. Can't figure out why I didn't listen to the experts sooner.
BTW..... If you would add your location to your profile, you may find that there is someone that is close to you and willing to help.
Aaron
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
It's interesting to me how you are sold on the quality of SPI clears and primers, but seem to consider the base color as almost an afterthought.
I can assure you that the quality of the base has a substantial effect on the quality of the paint job. Adhesion, chip resistance, gloss, and overall longevity are all influenced by the type of basecoat used.
The point of a higher quality base is not to make you a better painter, but to improve the quality of the finish. Most of us have witnessed guys spend hundreds of hours on a project only to basically ruin it with poor product selection. I think the reason most of us resist this type of thinking so much is because we value ourselves and our time spent on a job substantially more than the cost of the paint.
I have told customers that if they want to stay within a budget, not to choose red. It is the most expensive solid color. It's also quite common for less expensive reds to have extremely poor coverage, necessitating additional purchases of color that will partially or totally negate any cost savings you are trying to realize, as well as creating a thicker film of base, which compromises the quality of the finish.
No matter what base you choose, get a few sprayout cards from the jobber (they ought to be free) and see how many coats it takes to cover the test pattern. You might be unpleasantly surprised.
I can assure you that the quality of the base has a substantial effect on the quality of the paint job. Adhesion, chip resistance, gloss, and overall longevity are all influenced by the type of basecoat used.
The point of a higher quality base is not to make you a better painter, but to improve the quality of the finish. Most of us have witnessed guys spend hundreds of hours on a project only to basically ruin it with poor product selection. I think the reason most of us resist this type of thinking so much is because we value ourselves and our time spent on a job substantially more than the cost of the paint.
I have told customers that if they want to stay within a budget, not to choose red. It is the most expensive solid color. It's also quite common for less expensive reds to have extremely poor coverage, necessitating additional purchases of color that will partially or totally negate any cost savings you are trying to realize, as well as creating a thicker film of base, which compromises the quality of the finish.
No matter what base you choose, get a few sprayout cards from the jobber (they ought to be free) and see how many coats it takes to cover the test pattern. You might be unpleasantly surprised.
H
Hotbo
Omni Bases And Nason bases are Horrible to say the least 
when you are working from the ground up,you need ever step to be a good quality product,saying the base is just there for looks and will be sealed by the clear is not correct at all.
the better the base the better the coverage,better Adhesion and longer all around life of the color.
i have used my fair share of cheaper bases,both Nason and Omni over the years at my repair shop.
i found right away they were junk and color matching was piss poor.
so i said well i will use only for budget all overs when i get 1 or 2,well that lasted about 1 or 2 times and i found myself asking why in the Hell would i even think about using this Junk
i am in the collision repair side and work with bodywork and primers and paints daily.
i don't use junk Filler and i don't use Junk Primer and i don't use Junk bases or clears,i have been down this road and i have felt and seen the results months to years later.
everything is about price?we all have the problem ever day with everything from groceries to Gas we put in our vehicles.
i only use Deltron Dbc base coats at my shop for all my work,yes its pricey but i have to make my work look great and sell my product after every job and it has to last more than 1-2 years
i use all SPI primers,Reducers and UV clear.
skimping on the base is just another step that is wrong in the process of painting.
i hope you take no offense to this,as I am just stating facts like a lot have already stated to you.
if you cant afford to use a Quality base you might ask yourself why?you have good Quality Primer and Clear.
i have heard great things about Pro-Spray also which i plan to try someday on something of my own,just to see what its all about.
i wish you the best,Travis
when you are working from the ground up,you need ever step to be a good quality product,saying the base is just there for looks and will be sealed by the clear is not correct at all.
the better the base the better the coverage,better Adhesion and longer all around life of the color.
i have used my fair share of cheaper bases,both Nason and Omni over the years at my repair shop.
i found right away they were junk and color matching was piss poor.
so i said well i will use only for budget all overs when i get 1 or 2,well that lasted about 1 or 2 times and i found myself asking why in the Hell would i even think about using this Junk
i am in the collision repair side and work with bodywork and primers and paints daily.
i don't use junk Filler and i don't use Junk Primer and i don't use Junk bases or clears,i have been down this road and i have felt and seen the results months to years later.
everything is about price?we all have the problem ever day with everything from groceries to Gas we put in our vehicles.
i only use Deltron Dbc base coats at my shop for all my work,yes its pricey but i have to make my work look great and sell my product after every job and it has to last more than 1-2 years
i use all SPI primers,Reducers and UV clear.
skimping on the base is just another step that is wrong in the process of painting.
i hope you take no offense to this,as I am just stating facts like a lot have already stated to you.
if you cant afford to use a Quality base you might ask yourself why?you have good Quality Primer and Clear.
i have heard great things about Pro-Spray also which i plan to try someday on something of my own,just to see what its all about.
i wish you the best,Travis