Single stage capped with clear, or bc/cc ?

If you have to repair a chip (or other damage) or a clear sand-through, can you blend the single stage solid color like a basecoat without getting fuzzy edges or will the clearcoat smooth it over? What about black?
 
No problems blending it out and clearing past the blend or better yet clear the complete panel. You can use blending solvent to melt the edge of the singlestage if the texture is poor in the blend area but usually isn't needed.
 
Thanks, Bob.
Couple more questions... I know I will get some nibs in the color (black singlestage) but if I get a run or want to smooth the texture, can I wet-sand the car all over and then clear? This will most likely take the color past the top-coat window but it will be sanded so hopefully adhesion would be OK...?
What grit to use on black singlestage before clearcoating?
I quizzed the local PPG jobber about clearing over singlestage Concept and they firmly informed me that whatever clear I used MUST use the PPG DCX catalyst in it or I would definately have a reaction between the two different catalysts. In this thread alone I've read that Concept and Universal clear can be used or even mixed together. Comments, please......
 
sand with 600 then do a nice glamor coat then clear. as for the jobber , stop listening to him.
 
Thanks, shine. I was hoping for that reply.
How many coats of singlestage do you normally apply to be sanded with 600 (pre-clear)? And... is your glamour coat consist of one or two coats. Thanks.
 
i did 4 coats of ppg concept then hit it with 600 to kill any wave and trash. then i did a nice wet thin coat . then i started clearing. did 4 coats uv , blocked with 600 then 3 coats of uv.
 
Is the process any different with R & M Uno HD with regard to the 4 hr. or overnight wait before clear? Also, if univ. is mixed 50/50 for a glamour coat, should the color portion be catalyzed with R & M activator-the univ. catalyzed with it's own activator & then the 2 mixed together, or should a common(SPI) catalyst be used for both? Thanks, fellas
 
Always activate each with their own activator, separately, then mix together.

4 hours will cover about all but overnight is ALWAYS the best bet if time allows.
 
shine;715 said:
i did 4 coats of ppg concept then hit it with 600 to kill any wave and trash. then i did a nice wet thin coat . then i started clearing. did 4 coats uv , blocked with 600 then 3 coats of uv.
Click to expand...

Shine....I am wondering what the purpose of your thin wet coat of SS is.......the thin wet coat you are spraying after your 4 coats of PPG concept and then the 600 sanding. Why dont you just go right into spraying your clear?

Ive been spraying three coats of SS red.....letting it dry 24 hours or more then sanding it with 600 grit and then I start spraying my clear. So I am wondering if I should be adding a thin wet coat of SS red before I start my clear......as you do in your process.

THanks.
 
i do it to ensure the color is right. with some colors the toner will rise to the surface. many reds will turn slightly orange when sanded. or at least they did in the past. it is just something i have always done. i'm a dinosaur and many of my methods don't make sense to most. :)
 
Ah....thats the reason I thought you were doing it that way. I have noticed my red turning a bit orange during sanding.....so your method definitely makes sense. Thanks for the insight.
 
i've always seemed a little weird to other painters ( shut up barry ) but some of the screwy things i do work. i kept a 5 in magnifying glass in my paint tool box to look at pearl or metallic . i paint with cotton jersey gloves on . have grow light bulbs in my booth . the list goes on............
 
Grow lights in the booth, any cash crops in there?-LOL I agree some single stage colors can change their look when sanded, it all depends on how well the color can hold it's pigment in suspension before it kicks. I know some painters having color match problems when spraying doors horizontally and the quarter gets sprayed verticle-it all depends on if the pigment settles before the paint locks up. Then there's other colors that you can sand and clear and have a perfect match to unsanded and cleared. Usually the difference in color is minimal but if you're after perfection you might better do some testing or just follow Shine's proceedure.
 
Yeah, but painting singlestage metalic requires a different style of spraying IMO. Go ahead and get three coats on then sand, your next application will need to be done in two steps to avoid tiger stripes and mottling. Spray one wet coat and allow it to tack up just enough so you can apply a light drop coat setting the metalics evenly. Timing between coats is critical. If you time it right the first coat will accept the drop coat well and the metalics will be even and the paint will be smooth and glossy. If the first coat cures to much the drop coat will just create orange peel, if the drop coat is applied too soon the metalics will settle and be uneven/mottled and also a chance of runs. Gun setup for good atomization and a very even pattern will help a lot. Try to spray all your parts at the same time when using SS metalics because there is a greater chance of difference unless all variables are consistant-temps, gun setup, application time, humidity... I first learned how to paint using SS Metalic Enamels and I was good at making stripes for awhile.
 
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