Single stage capped with clear, or bc/cc ?

danp76

danp76

Oldtimer
I'm painting my 68 camaro bright red, (a tint off the Glasurit mixing bank). My question is as follows, for the best finish in appearance and durability, am I better off with single stage urethane capped with clear or base coat clear coat. My initial thought was I'd use 22 line Glasurit, apply three coats, let it sit for a few days, and block it out with 600 grit paper and then apply 3 coats of clear to it. Choice number two would be to spray 55 line Glasurit base coat, followed by 3 coats of clear. I would then wait a few days, and sand the clear with 600 grit paper and apply 3 more coats of clear...which scenario will yield the best results?
 
Singe stage with clear is very durable and chip resistant. I prefer this method for solid colors when time allows. The problem is that the red may change color slightly when wetsanded. You'll need to do a test panel and see.

It would be advisable to first get coverage with the red, wait close to the maximum flash time allowed, then put two coats of compatible clear over that, then color sand and re-clear. This would ensure that no pigments are disturbed.
 
Thankyou Crashtech, so, how do I know what clears are compatible? I think spraying single stage and capping it with clear may make the most sense, as I won't have any opportunity to disturb the color pigments. Is there a big difference in appearance doing it this method over base coat clear coat?.....or, can I achieve similar results by sanding my clear coat then adding additon clear?
 
If you clear you must wait until the SS sets 4 hours or overnight, no sanding needed.

There are exceptions, like PPG Concept where the universal can be mixed with it or laid wet on wet.

Anything else could be a risky gamble.
 
if you sand red it will orange up on you. this is why i started clearing ss . i also prefer the ss over base. just personal preference . i use ppg concept and spi uv clear.
 
you cant beat the look of ss with clear on top. looks like it was dipped in color....or looks like a piece of shiny plastic :) That's how i'm doing the dart. SS Corporate Red with universal on top. Cut and reclear with universal. So barry, your recommendation with universal is to wait 4 hours before clearing (no intermix)? Will be using Sikkens SS. They discontinued their autocryl line (which is their ss line), and if i cant get any that the store has left, will have to to use the base system with ss converter. Last i checked, autocryl can be topcoated with acIII or hs at 15-30 min (solid color). Same with the base single stage.
 
Sikkens SS and the Utech 3.8, can be mixed with the universal, each must be activated with own activator and then mix, lost coat if done this way can be just clear wet on wet.
 
So, my question is....what looks better single stage with clear or base coat clear coat, followed by a sanding and second session of clearing...
 
They should look almost identical, the advantage of the SS being a coating that is catalyzed from start to finish, and therefore theoretically more durable and chip resistant.

I would have thought that 22 Line is compatible with SPI in a wet-on-wet scenario, apparently it has not been tested out. You could be our guinea pig and do a nice test on an old fender or something, that is if you have ready access to the Glasurit product.

But of course what Barry recommends is exactly right and best, waiting 4 hrs to overnight ensures no question of compatibility at all, just adds some time to the job.
 
i prefer the ss because it starts to build your surface with the first coat. i think you get a much smoother look and small imperfections that would be seen through the clear will be filled and hidden. plus the cross link is throughout the film.
 
Rac- yes and can even be mixed in.

Brad- yes complete cross-linking compared to a partial- iso's are the king!
 
Thanks Barry..I am hoping to be able to order some epoxy in a week or two and finally get started on my truck again.I have not worked on it for several months.
 
RAC65;433 said:
Does mixing the clear with the ss give it more gloss?
Click to expand...

That's debatable, especially depending on the quality of the SS. What clearing over the SS does for sure is gives you a surface that can be extensively color sanded and polished without the risk of disturbing pigments in the paint, which can cause color changes, or worse.
 
Single stage and clear is what will be going over that 69 camero I am currently working on.. It is also my favorite combo for solid colors on old muscle cars

It will have 2 coats of normal Pro Spray single stage.. A 50/50 mix of ss/clear for the third coat.. Blocked next day and then re cleared with 3 coats of clear.. Then cut and buff..
 
That sounds like a good plan for my truck if I ever get to that point. I cant decide what color to paint it. The original color was light blue with white top but I am just not crazy about that color. I saw a picture of a 67 Chad painted a darker blue and it looked good,I even thought about a turquoise.I try to find older trucks on the net to get ideas.Its a good thing I have lots of time to figure it out.
 
RAC65;433 said:
Does mixing the clear with the ss give it more gloss?
Click to expand...

You won't get more gloss but you will get added depth and also more glow effect with lighter colors. Doing the 50/50 color and clear will suspend some pigment and almost give a candy effect with some colors. Some factory tri-stage solid colors also exhibit the same effect with bright yellows and reds being the most common. Chip repair with a SS solid color is usually fairly easy-another plus.
 
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