let's talk sanding

Thanks Jim. I thought 20 discs sounded high, but they are in the business of selling them. The eagle 971-0042 is supposed to be for faster cut and the 971-7052 is softer for a better finish. I told the guy at Eagle their website is a bit hard to find what is needed. This is due to some product overlap. Eagle is just a partner distributor in GA, the product is made by Kovax in Japan.
 
Any preferences on sanders for this? I have a IR 4151 that has locked up so I need to replace it. May order the same one but thought I would ask first. I also have a Hutchins here but I don't really like the air control knob. It's a little to touchy.
 
3m or dynabrade. i have both. the 3m are nice and light. i use them every day and after 5 years they have held up just as well as the dynabrade ones.
 
Jim C said:
3m or dynabrade. i have both. the 3m are nice and light. i use them every day and after 5 years they have held up just as well as the dynabrade ones.
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Thanks.. I'll have to look into them both.
 
Anyone else using the Black Eagle buflex and yellow finish film on 6 month+ old UC? I have panels wet sanded by hand to 2000 and am lucky to cut these scratches out on a medium sized panel with one black disc before losing the cutting action. I have tried the Buflex black wet and the buflex black dry both wet and dry. Is there a huge difference in finish abrasive life on fresh vs older (9 month old) Universal Clear? I also tried the Eagle yellow finish film 1000/1500 and they didn't last very long either. I had much better life with 1000 /1500\ 2000/ wet by hand. The buflex black leaves a very easy to buff finish, they just don't last very long.
 
the black doesnt last anywhere near as long as the green. the green is about 2500 grit, black 3000. generally i find the black dry disc, if used wet last about 1 disc per panel. there are alot of variables though. it will not cut gloss. they only work from a coarser sanded finish. i will do 1000 then 1500 yellow film then green bufflex then black. first two are dry, last two wet. dry sanding discs like yellow film can vary alot depending on if clear is fresh or cured and if your cutting out orange peel with say 1000 or just refining scratches with 1500. still for the most part to do a whole car figure maybe 1/2 box of 1000 and 1500. green bufflex maybe 2-3 discs depending on car size and maybe 6-8 for black.
 
Thanks for the detailed info Jim. As always, the members here are a wealth of useful information. I stated with the 1000/1500 eagle yellow film, but was going through them quick enough that I thought something was up. That and the dreaded pigtails made me switch to traditional wet paper and hard block. In your opinion, are the final results comparable with the Eagle paper and DA start to finish vs hard blocking wet and finishing with DA wet/dry? I feel like the consensus is a hard block is needed to start with for flattest possible finish. I'm currently using a 4.5" AFS block for wet sanding which has a thin flexible steel plate and Nikkens paper which lasts quite a while.
 
if you looking to get that last 2% of flattness in your finish and your willing to put in the many hours to do so then by all means go that route. a block will always get it flattest. on the flip side of things, if you are skilled enough to spray the clear with very little wave to begin with then you can use a da for the whole process and do the job in prob 10% of the time it takes to block wet. if you took a hood that i did with a da and one that you did with a block there a very few people who would be able to tell a difference. like i said its that last 2% of flattness that your getting by doing it by hand. if i was doing a million dollar car that was going to some big shows then that would be something i would hand block. if your a very heavy handed sprayer and have a tendency to spray close then your going to have a bunch more wave in your clear. this would be another reason to block. a da wont work that out. the trick is to spray the clear with the least amount of wave as possible. that means back away from the panel a couple few extra inches and dont hammer the clear on.
 
After reading through this thread decided to give the eagle yellow and the buflex a try, so I ordered one of each of there sample packs. I just got them in the mail and was surprised at what you got. for the price of shipping and handling (they charge for each system) which was $18 total you get 2 disc each of 800 thru 2000 in the yellow with a foam interface pad. the buflex came with one green and two black da pads with another interface pad, plus two black and one green hand sand paper with a foam hand pad. looking forward to trying them next week.
 
been using my sample pack this morning and I am really liking the eagle products. Their as good as everything I have read says they are. Nobody locally in my area carries eagle, where are you guys ordering it from?
 
When using the Eagle Buflex dry products wet for increased life, what is the trick to keeping the disc attached to the interface pad? The buflex do not have a very strong grip on the eagle interface pad and always want to spin off or bunch up unless the panel is very wet. When working damp like most finishing disc, they are a bear to keep attached. I have tried the buflex black PSA wet discs and they are a real pain to put on and take off.
 
I tried their interface pad with the same results, but I usually don't use a interface pad. I have a 3m painters backing pad (part# 05551) on one of my sanders, it's a lot thicker and softer than a regular backing pad but I only use it for prepping blend panels and finish sanding before I buff. I have only been using the buflex stuff for a couple weeks but so far so good.
 
oh yes if you got their pad you cant use that. its fuzzy side to fuzzy side. use a regular hookit soft interface pad. not sure why they designed theirs to be like that.
 
Thanks for the help! I was ready to give up on using the buflex wet and go back to dry use or even all wet by hand. Are the bufflex dry usable with a non-holed interface pad? I have a holed version on order, but all I have are non-holed ones. I'm worried about the hook/loop poking through the holes in the buflex disc on contoured areas. I feel like the eagle interface pads may have been design fuzzy to fuzzy, so if the holes in the disc were not perfectly lined up with the holes in the interface pad there were no plastic hook/loops present to potentially reach through the hole and scratch the surface.
 
El Toro said:
Jorge M.;n85052 said:
Ask for Tony, that guy is pretty cool. He sent me some free samples of their products.
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do they have a phone # to ask questions or order from? thank you
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+1 650 333 5703

Try that number, not sure if it's their business or mobile number.
 
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