Give us some of your findings. What worked, what didn't. All of the perts.
Hmmm, where to begin?
Just a couple of hours ago I gave some Speed clear to a friend of mine that likes to slam the Production and EURO on the wet side of things, he goes in close and fast with a Tekna clearcoat gun.
He did both sliding doors, quarter panels and bumper corner in a PW7 (white) Dodge Caravan . We used Medium speed activator and this guy was a bit lazy to go and grab a bigger SATA RPS cup and instead he chose a .300 ML one, that's what, 8 oz? So we had to fill up that ridiculous small thing for the job like three times but for the spraying temperature ( 75-80 F max) it was no big deal and he got no dry spray anywhere. I think he overlapped a bit too much in one area when he had to stop to refill and go back to spraying that he got some flow indicators that will buff right out tomorrow morning. Something I have noticed if you get a sag or run they always tend to level out because basically two coats become one and then you don't have those nasty sausage runs where the surrounding clear seems very thin, the ones that are a pain in the rear to fix. I have yet to see big-deep solvent pop from this clear in the 15 paint jobs I have done or have given the spray gun to a painter. It seems like it will take quite a bit of abuse.
The thing to watch out for is technique if you spray back to back on the same panel, depending on the speed activator you choose you may have to do a first closed coat at 80% then you go back 100% in the second coat. When I did a whole side of a car or a front clip I just did 2 panels at a time and whatever best panel sequence that came into my head, I'm very cumbersome at trying to explain things so I won't even try. The gist of it is that once you choose the right activator you won't have to do the 1.5 coats that the competition calls for on their speed clears but instead 2 full coats.
The biggest concern for me selling this new clear will be making sure the waterborne basecoat is fully dry, that's the only time I have gotten micro solvent pop or a bit of die back on a hood, and it seems is the waterborne stuff that will be more headache than even rushing the solvent basecoat, I have no clue if it's a matter of "excessive moisture" in waterborne paint that makes things go south and then the clear doesn't look as good as it should. I'm really looking forward to trying the Slow or a 50/50 blend of Med/Slow to see if avoid any trace of die back altogether. This micro pinching or die back we fixed in one hour of buffing with Trizact 3000 alone, so the body shop owner is still stoked to get this clear in his shop.
You guys will know right away when you start using it, the first black or dark colors or solid reds you spray you will notice how good of a finish this clear has. Can't wait for all of your feedback as well.
Oh forgot to add that this clear seems dust free like in 15-20 mins tops, painters are always surprised how quick they can unmask and kick the car to the drying room, or out of the booth into the shop and bring the next one in. Time to handle parts have been around the 90 minute mark and minor buffing as well.