5HP 2 stage Quincy compressor at rural king

low rpm pump - min 5hp ( 1 man ) - dryer at service end as far from pump as possible - moisture/vapor trap before dryer .
 
shine said:
low rpm pump - min 5hp ( 1 man ) - dryer at service end as far from pump as possible - moisture/vapor trap before dryer .
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How do those auto drain air filters even work? I just ordered a manufacturing drain one off Amazon at a substantially cheaper price when compared to an auto drain one, but I don't wanna have to worry about it either. Can't I just remove the thumb know at the bottom and let the water drain out? Maybe remove the knob and install a muffler or some sort of mesh to keep dirt from getting in but allow water to get out? Maybe I just leave the knob cracked. Or will the thing be pressurized and such "solutions" will mean I'm wasting air?
 
i shut down and drain my tank at night. when it pressures up it drains the trap in the dryer before closing it .
 
i was using a divilbiss QC3(actually 2 cause one was free)....and a motor guard...and a water trap also had 2 drop legs before all that. My compressor runs slow too(about 850rpm) but I was STILL getting moisture. The QC3 filters took care of it but I would change right before prime/paint/clearcoat and use up 2 on one car. I went ahead and bought the HF dryer and have done 2 cars using 1 filter and it's still good. The humidity here is the same as you , half hour in my garage and I'm soaked from sweat....sure seems like it's keeping up, haven't seen a drop come out of my hose yet while sanding. There are several posts on SPI forum about the HF dryer, everyone seems to like it and has nothing bad to say about them
 
Dave C 5 said:
i was using a divilbiss QC3(actually 2 cause one was free)....and a motor guard...and a water trap also had 2 drop legs before all that. My compressor runs slow too(about 850rpm) but I was STILL getting moisture. The QC3 filters took care of it but I would change right before prime/paint/clearcoat and use up 2 on one car. I went ahead and bought the HF dryer and have done 2 cars using 1 filter and it's still good. The humidity here is the same as you , half hour in my garage and I'm soaked from sweat....sure seems like it's keeping up, haven't seen a drop come out of my hose yet while sanding. There are several posts on SPI forum about the HF dryer, everyone seems to like it and has nothing bad to say about them
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So you have air from the compressor go through the HF dryer and then into the QC3, then through the m60? You use the dryer all the time?

I know a lot of guys like the HF dryer here. I've read through the posts. I'm just asking about it again as a means of obtaining an updated review.

Here's is the filter I got. I plan on having this right off the tank.

HEAVY DUTY HIGH FLOW COMPRESSED AIR IN-LINE PARTICULATE FILTER WITH METAL BOWL, 3/4" NPT PORTS, 140 CFM, VISIBLE SIGHT GLASS, 5 MICRON ELEMENT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VTVTFRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_57IwBb230DB94

Here is the regulator today I purchased. This will be right after the filter. After this will be the HF dryer.

Air Pressure Regulator for compressor compressed air 3/4" FREE GAUGE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBF1ZK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m.IwBbF390EA4
 
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I think most guys here will tell you the longer the distance between the compressor and air hose the better . If the dryer is too close to the compressor and the filters are too - then the system still has time to make water before it gets to the air hose . I have no filters until about 50 ft , the I start with the dryer. According to shine maybe I should at least have a water trap before the dryer- as of now it’s working so I’ll do that when I re- figure everything in a couple years - gonna build a booth
 
My actual set up is - dryer- water trap - m60 - dessicant filters . It was just easier to do it that way since my dryer was being added after everything was in place
 
Done some painting for guy one time. He researched alot before he set his airlines up. Runs 3/4 pipe directly out of compressor, then 50 feet galvanized pipe in 10 foot sections. Elbows keep it from taking up entire section of wall. Two drops for draining water, then filter before HF dryer. Then dessicant after dryer. I never had any water come thru the lines.
 
Vapor trap?

Is anyone using the rapid air aluminum style airline in their shops? It is a push to connect/shark bite style fitting. I really like the idea. Installation would be so fast as compared to threaded galvanized pipe. Not to mention it has a higher pressure rating. The Quincy is capable of 175psi, and I did plan on having one line at that pressure strictly for blowing dirt off farm equipment. The rest of the shop will be regulated to 100-110psi.

The problem I see with it is the fittings. A kit with 100' of the stuff, several tees, and 3 outlets can be had on Amazon for $160. A single 3/4NPT x rapid air (push to connect) style fitting is about $15. That's the cheapest I could find. If there are off brands that work please someone let me know! A great deal of these particular fittings are needed in my setup- and id think anyone's setups. I'm seeing exactly how many fittings I need now. It's pry a wash in the end because installation will go SOOOO much faster.

Just looking for any input on it. Looks like the way of the future for plumbing up air if you ask me.
 
I have the 3/4 maxair kit. Yes the fittings are expensive. Easy to install, and will never corrode. I would pass on the 1/2 push to connect kit. The 3/4" kit is compression fittings, the 1/2" is push to connect.
 
MX442 said:
I have the 3/4 maxair kit. Yes the fittings are expensive. Easy to install, and will never corrode. I would pass on the 1/2 push to connect kit. The 3/4" kit is compression fittings, the 1/2" is push to connect.
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You think the push to connect are more liable to leak? I am having various places wuote a 1/2 kit and 3/4 kit. We're moving the old compressor to another building and had planned on plumbing it up with the 1/2 stuff.

Another question: will 3/4 shark bite fittings work with the max air or rapid air stuff? I thought shark bite fittings were too expensive but these rapid air fittings make the shark bite fittings look cheap! If the SB works I'll get some of those for what I need that's over and beyond what comes in a standard kit. They're rated to 200psi (the copper variants that is), so id be good from that standpoint.

Do you guys use all brass pipe fittings to combat and prolong corrosion?
 
copper is best . galv or black will rust sooner or later.
heads explode when i mention pvc so it kinda fun . yes i do run it. just redid my shop after 20 years .
 
Schroeder said:
You think the push to connect are more liable to leak? I am having various places wuote a 1/2 kit and 3/4 kit. We're moving the old compressor to another building and had planned on plumbing it up with the 1/2 stuff.
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The 1/2" kit is only rated to 150psi. 3/4" is 200 psi. 3/4 pipe will flow better if you have a lot of runs/turns/drops. Why choke it down if you don't have to?
 
Schroeder said:
You think the push to connect are more liable to leak? I am having various places wuote a 1/2 kit and 3/4 kit. We're moving the old compressor to another building and had planned on plumbing it up with the 1/2 stuff.

Another question: will 3/4 shark bite fittings work with the max air or rapid air stuff? I thought shark bite fittings were too expensive but these rapid air fittings make the shark bite fittings look cheap! If the SB works I'll get some of those for what I need that's over and beyond what comes in a standard kit. They're rated to 200psi (the copper variants that is), so id be good from that standpoint.

Do you guys use all brass pipe fittings to combat and prolong corrosion?
Click to expand...

I have Maxair, and stainless or brass fittings. I use lots of stainless from SupplyHouse dot com. Just be careful because it will "weld" together super easily if you fit them together dry.

Beware that the 1/2" plumging kit is 1/2" OD, 3/8 ID. Use the big stuff. I chuckle at Shine's posts about PVC because I had PVC plumbing that was fine for 20 some years and redid everything in copper about 2 years ago. A year later, I ripped the copper out and went to MaxAir because the copper was turning scaly green inside and making nasty green stuff come out with my air. I would guess the copper would have been fine if I had a chiller, but it had become a mess quickly and I ripped it out. Maybe it was from soldering flux, I don't know, it's gone now.

I have done a lot of research and thinking about moisture in compressed air over the last year. The first principle to understand is that pressurized air can't hold all the moisture that it can hold before being compressed. The second principle in play is temperature. Warmer air (compressed or not) holds more moisture. If you compress 70F 50%RH room air to 150PSI and cool it back to room temperature, it absolutely will become saturated (100% Relative Humidity) and it will create condensation. Any further cooling of the compressed air will cause more condensation.

With that in mind, assume you fill your compressor tank and let everything cool to room temperature. Unless your room air is extremely dry to start with, the compressed air will become saturated (100%RH) as it cools and moisture will condense inside your tank. Now, you start using air, and that 100%RH air is going through your plumbing. If any point in your plumbing is a few degrees cooler than the tank was, more moisture will condense in your plumbing.

Things get worse when you run your compressor and the air in your tank becomes warmer (even just a few degrees) than your downstream plumbing. Warmer air holds more moisture, so less condenses in your tank and more goes out in to your plumbing. Plumbing will warm up to some degree, but the further you plumb away from the tank, the cooler it gets. At that point, your plumbing is one long dehumidifier and the compressed air will drop moisture out (create condensation) as it cools throughout your plumbing system. If you add a water filter coming out of your tank, it may catch some of the condensed water that tries to blow out of your tank, but the warm air still carries more moisture than the air will hold when it cools in your plumbing. Moving your water separator further from the tank will help some, but again, any further cooling after the water separator will cause condensation.

Chilling the air is the only way to get around this (other than desiccant, etc).
 
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Addicted said:
I have Maxair, and stainless or brass fittings. I use lots of stainless from SupplyHouse dot com. Just be careful because it will "weld" together super easily if you fit them together dry.

Beware that the 1/2" plumging kit is 1/2" OD, 3/8 ID. Use the big stuff. I chuckle at Shine's posts about PVC because I had PVC plumbing that was fine for 20 some years and redid everything in copper about 2 years ago. A year later, I ripped the copper out and went to MaxAir because the copper was turning scaly green inside and making nasty green stuff come out with my air. I would guess the copper would have been fine if I had a chiller, but it had become a mess quickly and I ripped it out. Maybe it was from soldering flux, I don't know, it's gone now.

I have done a lot of research and thinking about moisture in compressed air over the last year. The first principle to understand is that pressurized air can't hold all the moisture that it can hold before being compressed. The second principle in play is temperature. Warmer air (compressed or not) holds more moisture. If you compress 70F 50%RH room air to 150PSI and cool it back to room temperature, it absolutely will become saturated (100% Relative Humidity) and it will create condensation. Any further cooling of the compressed air will cause more condensation.

With that in mind, assume you fill your compressor tank and let everything cool to room temperature. Unless your room air is extremely dry to start with, the compressed air will become saturated (100%RH) as it cools and moisture will condense inside your tank. Now, you start using air, and that 100%RH air is going through your plumbing. If any point in your plumbing is a few degrees cooler than the tank was, more moisture will condense in your plumbing.

Things get worse when you run your compressor and the air in your tank becomes warmer (even just a few degrees) than your downstream plumbing. Warmer air holds more moisture, so less condenses in your tank and more goes out in to your plumbing. Plumbing will warm up to some degree, but the further you plumb away from the tank, the cooler it gets. At that point, your plumbing is one long dehumidifier and the compressed air will drop moisture out (create condensation) as it cools throughout your plumbing system. If you add a water filter coming out of your tank, it may catch some of the condensed water that tries to blow out of your tank, but the warm air still carries more moisture than the air will hold when it cools in your plumbing. Moving your water separator further from the tank will help some, but again, any further cooling after the water separator will cause condensation.

Chilling the air is the only way to get around this (other than desiccant, etc).
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What do you think about the maxair? For doing both my shops i was quoted at $1700!!!! Insane. The pipe for the maxair is cheap, but the fittings are nuts. INSANE I say! I am gonna have to end up not using elbows and just sweep the pipe through wide bends to eliminate fittings.

That being said, how easy does the stuff bend and sweep? Can I do it with my hands? I need to sit and determine how to cut cost.

So this supply house dot come offers the max air fittings? Have you found a cheaper alternative that works such as shark bit fittings?

By the way, the plan is to let the QT-5 pump up to 175psi to keep the air in the tank plentiful and dense. Right out of the tank I'm gonna regulate down to 140psi and run a line to an outlet. This outlet will be used for blow off. My dad wants it. It is nice for blowing equipment off. There will be a tee after this reg. I'll run a line with no outlets 80'. This is for cooling. The line will enter a filter and then another reg that regulates down to 110psi. Here the air will enter the refrigerated dryer or the bypass if that's how I have it set up that day. This is what will feed the shop 110psi. Any further regulation will be done with a plug-in reg at the outlets.

I haven't read the Quincy manual yet to see what options I have for cut in and cut off pressures but I'd like cut in to be 130psi. What do you think about this setup? Am I thinking about it right?
 
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