5HP 2 stage Quincy compressor at rural king
- Thread starter Schroeder
- Start date
A
Addicted
What do you think about the maxair? For doing both my shops i was quoted at $1700!!!! Insane. The pipe for the maxair is cheap, but the fittings are nuts. INSANE I say! I am gonna have to end up not using elbows and just sweep the pipe through wide bends to eliminate fittings.
I like the 3/4” maxline but yes the fittings are crazy expensive. I used it to make long runs away from the compressor to a few good spots for multiple smaller lines to tee from. For me, the small maxline or other 3/8 line was adequate to drop to many of my individual points of use.
That being said, how easy does the stuff bend and sweep? Can I do it with my hands? I need to sit and determine how to cut cost.
You can definitely make sweeping bends by hand. I am a bit OCD so geting straight runs super straight was more of a challenge.
So this supply house dot come offers the max air fittings? Have you found a cheaper alternative that works such as shark bit fittings?
No maxline at supply house. I did a lot in stainless from supply house to make little breakout manifolds, install ball valves, regulaors, etc. I didn’t try anything different in terms if maxline fittings. i used as few as possible due to cost.
By the way, the plan is to let the QT-5 pump up to 175psi to keep the air in the tank plentiful and dense. Right out of the tank I'm gonna regulate down to 140psi and run a line to an outlet. This outlet will be used for blow off. My dad wants it. It is nice for blowing equipment off. There will be a tee after this reg. I'll run a line with no outlets 80'. This is for cooling. The line will enter a filter and then another reg that regulates down to 110psi. Here the air will enter the refrigerated dryer or the bypass if that's how I have it set up that day. This is what will feed the shop 110psi. Any further regulation will be done with a plug-in reg at the outlets.
I haven't read the Quincy manual yet to see what options I have for cut in and cut off pressures but I'd like cut in to be 130psi. What do you think about this setup? Am I thinking about it right?
I like the 3/4” maxline but yes the fittings are crazy expensive. I used it to make long runs away from the compressor to a few good spots for multiple smaller lines to tee from. For me, the small maxline or other 3/8 line was adequate to drop to many of my individual points of use.
That being said, how easy does the stuff bend and sweep? Can I do it with my hands? I need to sit and determine how to cut cost.
You can definitely make sweeping bends by hand. I am a bit OCD so geting straight runs super straight was more of a challenge.
So this supply house dot come offers the max air fittings? Have you found a cheaper alternative that works such as shark bit fittings?
No maxline at supply house. I did a lot in stainless from supply house to make little breakout manifolds, install ball valves, regulaors, etc. I didn’t try anything different in terms if maxline fittings. i used as few as possible due to cost.
By the way, the plan is to let the QT-5 pump up to 175psi to keep the air in the tank plentiful and dense. Right out of the tank I'm gonna regulate down to 140psi and run a line to an outlet. This outlet will be used for blow off. My dad wants it. It is nice for blowing equipment off. There will be a tee after this reg. I'll run a line with no outlets 80'. This is for cooling. The line will enter a filter and then another reg that regulates down to 110psi. Here the air will enter the refrigerated dryer or the bypass if that's how I have it set up that day. This is what will feed the shop 110psi. Any further regulation will be done with a plug-in reg at the outlets.
I haven't read the Quincy manual yet to see what options I have for cut in and cut off pressures but I'd like cut in to be 130psi. What do you think about this setup? Am I thinking about it right?
Your compressor will last longer if you keep the psi low. Resistance goes up trying to fill a tank to 175psi. I'd have it come on at 110 and off at 140 if it were me. You'd be better off in the long run to keep the psi's low and score an extra 80 gallon tank from craigslist. Then you'd have the volumn to preserve the pump.
I ran 3/4" black pipe in my shop. It's cheap and it isn't going to break. I've never had rust issues but my air is dry by the time it gets to the shop line.
I ran 3/4" black pipe in my shop. It's cheap and it isn't going to break. I've never had rust issues but my air is dry by the time it gets to the shop line.
Rbm
Professional amateur
Yup...water line... available at any box store..I order from a supplier as I use a bunch of it. crimpers are a little pricey for a one time use..maybe rent or borrow a set...it's kind of like PVC pipe, alot of negative comments,but it works fine
Schroeder
Promoted Users
Not sure about the crimpers. I'm tempted to try the standard shark bite fittings. How often did you support the PEX with clamps to keep it from sagging anywhere and collecting water? I'll definitely look into the crimpers tools. I'm thinking this is the way to go. I can't believe the rapid air stuff is going to add its weight in value to my operation in any way that's porportional to its cost. One of the most expensive products for shop use I've seen.
I am also considering copper too but nearly as seriously. Someone in this thread or some other internet thread mentioned that it crudded up with the green sulpher corrosion crap that we all know sulpher makes. Definitely don't want that stuff in my lines. Switching to something non-corrosive is one of the driving factors behind the research I'm putting into the line type I use.
I am also considering copper too but nearly as seriously. Someone in this thread or some other internet thread mentioned that it crudded up with the green sulpher corrosion crap that we all know sulpher makes. Definitely don't want that stuff in my lines. Switching to something non-corrosive is one of the driving factors behind the research I'm putting into the line type I use.
shine
Member
if your getting a bunch of corrosion in copper then you have a ton of water . if you remove water before your service lines you wont have a problem. start fighting water right at the compressor . this fall i am redoing my shop. i will post what i do then. main thing is water will be removed right where air comes into shop.
Rbm
Professional amateur
Sharks are expensive tho I think they would work fine... haven't used any.. I only had to use clamp supports in a few spots..all my lines run uphill at a pretty steep angle. A few slight dips uphill is insignificant. I have a separator at the compressor and drop valves and separator at each drop..only 3 drops. My paint booth is 50 ' from my compressor..my amature talent causes more problems than water. Yeah Schroeder, same pex you get at Lowe's
Schroeder
Promoted Users
Well that's true. I'll get the hose Barb style fittings and use the crimps as you've suggested. I'm going to Lowe's now to look at what's available, get an idea for what's out there, and then I'll proceed to order what I need off eBay and Amazon where I can get the stuff for a fraction of the price. I already see that push in 3/4 PEX valves are $10+ at Lowe's and they can be had for $3-$5 on eBay. Same thing goes for hose clamps and the crimpers fittings. No such savings on rapid air stuff.
Separator? Like coalescing filters? Also, in the interest of preserving the motor, pump, and reducing heat (water) I guess I'll just let the highest pressure be 110-120 Pai as set by the tanks adjustable electronic control. I'll put a regulator at the outlet where my tools plug-in to just as I do now when I need to regulate it down to a lower pressure for die Grinders and other items. After hearing what you guys have to say And discussing this with my dad it seems like the best option.
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I know guys have done it but I think running pex in a shop is crazy. Black pipe, galvanize pipe, or the specialized air stuff is all I'd run. Do it once and be done.
I'm with Shine on keeping water out of the main line. Let it cool and drop out into the tank with aftercoolers or refrigerant coolers.
I'm with Shine on keeping water out of the main line. Let it cool and drop out into the tank with aftercoolers or refrigerant coolers.
Rbm
Professional amateur
What's crazy about what works ? I planned to do this only once..I would be interested to hear any downside as I have not seen any..try here..https://www.pexuniverse.com...for good prices also.
Schroeder
Promoted Users
It's rated to 160psi at like 80°F. I'll never hit that. Why do you think it's a bad idea? Leaks. This stuff can't catastrophically fail either. If PEX would blow I imagine itd get a crack and burst open letting all its air rush out. It'd probably do so at a fitting. I can't imagine itd grenade like PVC.
Is anyone using 1" PEX? Its ID is .87" allowing for 3.03 gallon/100ft. 3/4 PEX has an ID of .681" which allows for 1.83 gallon/ 100'. That's a substantial difference.
Prices of this stuff on eBay are SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than they are here jn Lowe's.
OK, maybe not crazy, just something I wouldn't do. Pex is plastic crimped over brass fittings. It has zero ability to cool the air and let moisture drop out of it.
If it's rated for 160psi at 80 and you were talking about pumping it to 175psi then it seems like a bad idea.
It's just my opinion that I like the cooling ability and durability of black/galvanized pipe. I can run into with the fork truck and not have a problem. No other real world experiences other than a previous life when I was laborer in a factory I've seen plastic lines blow up when hit with a fork truck. I had to clean up the mess so I personally won't use it.
If it's rated for 160psi at 80 and you were talking about pumping it to 175psi then it seems like a bad idea.
It's just my opinion that I like the cooling ability and durability of black/galvanized pipe. I can run into with the fork truck and not have a problem. No other real world experiences other than a previous life when I was laborer in a factory I've seen plastic lines blow up when hit with a fork truck. I had to clean up the mess so I personally won't use it.
shine
Member
if i redo my shop again it will be copper . it will last as long as i do. i used pvc because i could cut it out and replace quick . less chance of oil vapors migrating to the booth with new lines . myself i will shy away from the pex type lines. no cooling and just dont trust crimp fittings. had enough a/c lines blow in my day . sweat the copper and be done with it.
you can flush a copper system to clean it.
you can flush a copper system to clean it.
Schroeder
Promoted Users
What I'd right out of the tank I bring the air through one of those loopy copper ups and downs I've seen you guys make on here and then go to PEX? Right after the copper line have the water separator filter and reg then into the PEX? I'm trying to find a happy medium between cost effective, quality, and ease of installation.
I came out of the tank and have 4 copper made water traps with valves at the bottom to release water throughout the day if need be, I ran 3/4 copper 40 feet around the wall to two separate drops. One drop has a water separator and 1/2" hose to run all tools, The other line has a water separator and desiccant filter and is only used to run spray guns. I have had no problem with water when painting, I run all this with a CH 80 gallon 27 cfm compressor. The older painter friend told me to do it right the first time and be done with it, This is how he had me set up and so far it has been great.