1967 Vette

Just wondering, what block and process did you use for blocking all the curved areas. I have a '49 Ford Truck I'll eventually be painting and it has a lot of curved panels. Thanks.
 
thanks chad! it works i suppose..working on getting the area beside the booth enclosed as a build room.

greg- for the smaller curves a round durablock works great...the larger ones a 2-1/2" - 3" round piece of pvc...or in my case since i cant find my pvc.....a carboard tube. not sure where i found it but its pretty thick and works great...when it wears out i guess i'll have to go get some pvc.

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i have a bunch of pieces of tube. i paint them with resin so they will last longer .
looking good . are you building the car too ?
 
Nice looking epoxy. Is reduced at all? Any tricks to getting it to lay that smooth? I can't seem to spray mine without at least some orange peel.
 
thanks shine. not building it...good customer of mine is doing the build. he used to be big into corvettes 10 years ago..had a collection of about 15-20......liquidated and now has about 20 early 60 mopars instead....lol.

epoxy isn't reduced..sprayed with a sata primer gun 2.0 tip.3 coats. it has a good bit of peel..just hard ot tell in the pics.
 
Strum, I usually block my epoxy the next day (no baking). If I spray two coats in the morning it is usually ready in about 24 hours. I lightly block sand it dry and use it is like a guide coat.
 
When I try to block epoxy the next day I usually get clumps on the sand paper (Norton). I end up trying to pick the clumps off with my fingernails or just wet sanding. It gets better as I go, but getting started is tough. The finer the paper, the worse it is. Metal temps are 65-70. I have tried heating to 100-110 with a heat gun and then allowing it to cool several times to expidite the process. Any suggestions?
 
it has been baked twice after setting a day. probably wont touch it with a block for another week. i dont know how much the heat helps after it has started the curing process...epoxy is so different from everything else. i know surface temp is a factor when spraying it...i baked the car for about 15 min at 120 degrees before spraying...let it cool some then went to town.
 
Jeremy,

I am assuming that you wait a week to block epoxy because you have tried doing it sooner, and it doesn't work as well. I have been experimenting with the all epoxy method on the hood I am doing right now, and it seems like you need to give it atleast two days, unless you wet sand.
 
here is where i'm doing it a little different. i shoot one day and sand the next but i only do one coat at a time. i shoot a coat every other day . i figure it this way. if there aint no peel in it then it cant shrink back into it.
 
Shine,

If I remember, you always wet sand, right? Have you tried dry sanding epoxy the next day?

I have been doing 1 coat at a time too, and it still cogs my paper if dry. Wet works with no problems.
 
first block is 80 , second it 100 .if ready then the next coat is 180 wet then 320 to 400 .the 80 and 100 are my blocking coats and get repeated if needed. when time to paint i do a reduced sealer coat. this how i did the 57 corvette and it turned out ok .
 
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oh my God, he has corvette parts on top of a mustang box!! lol.......i've already caught it today.....
 
LOL! the vette world be be a whole different place with police!! hah
 
in my earlier days i obamanised many a vette. king of the flares i tell ya. makoshark front ends. headlights in the grille fill the holes. i have taken a 66 coupe and shaved it. no top peak. 2 in radius on all the lines. made for a very strange car. but i do love working with vettes. screw rust !

cars looking good.....
 
lol. fiberglass dont bother me much either....kinda gotten used to it.

last coat of epoxy. 2 reduced coats.....with get a nice sanding with 500.

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thanks! and to think......the customer sent it down here from ny, for "some" spot repairs........lol.
 
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