1967 Vette

J

jeremyb

Thinking about doing black epoxy only on this. First time doing a vette (or any for that matter) with just epoxy. The black underneath the red oxide appears to be gelcoat. Car was recently restored and painted in 04. Going back original color, black.

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jeremyb;2876 said:
Thinking about doing black epoxy only on this. First time doing a vette (or any for that matter) with just epoxy. The black underneath the red oxide appears to be gelcoat. Car was recently restored and painted in 04. Going back original color, black.
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do you mean you are just going to use black epoxy primer and call it done? If not, what are you going to use for black epoxy top coat?
 
be forewarned if you do you better be thick skinned . cause everybody knows you cant use epoxy for build primer .
 
no, i mean using epoxy only for surfacing.

And i'm sure i'm gonna hear it from a few people when i say i'm only using epoxy, i'm well aware lol.
 
Not sure, looks as if the resto company did the paint job the old school way and did all their bodywork then put sprayable gelcoat on top. I've weighed the pros and the cons out and prices to the customer, honestly it needs to come off the frame, blasted and completely re done to be 100% right. Frame and all. But we are just going to fix the issues on the body and paint it and do a little work to the chassis. He's looking for a 66-67 convertible for us to completely restore and do right.

The bodywork on the car really isn't THAT bad....they just didn't do the extra priming and blocking that it needed. Way better than factory standards, but i have no interest in reproducing any kind of factory paint finish. It is not in me.
 
Well I have done a few panels with just epoxy and it does take quite a few coats to get any kind of build and it is time consuming since you have to wait so long to block sand between applications.
Maybe Shine has some tips in that regard.
I look forward to seeing your progress.
 
jeremyb;2883 said:
no, i mean using epoxy only for surfacing.
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Ok, that makes sense. I thought you may have some hi end unobtanium space shuttle paint or something,lol.
 
Sprayed the hood and rear valance. There was NO red on the rear valance..gray primer but it scraped off just as easy. Didn't come off in sheets like the rest of the car...but still scraped off.

Body will be ready next week. Have spent probably a week getting the new driver door to fit, and it's a factory door. Been a pain!

2 coats with sata 2.0 primer gun. 1 hr flash between coats.

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Question for shine...i read in the other forum that you double coat...is that better than 2 coats with proper flash?

I'd love to start out with a bare glass body but just isn't an option on this car. Will be for the next. I blocked a little on the hood today and was pretty pleased...even though its a wreck anyway i liked the build from the epoxy. Going to need a lot more blocking!
 
with the vaper 2.3 i bought i may be able to do a single coat . i just like a really good wet coat and then let it cure over night. with my 1.4 i double coated .
 
how well do your skates roll over the floor grating in your booth?
thanks.
 
not at all. i removed them to roll into the booth. hard to see with the paper on the car. I've already made that mistake once, lol! I think if i were to put bigger wheels on them, they would roll over the grates fine. I rarely ever use them though, as most of what i work on are on dollys with no suspension under them, or they have a rear end atleast under them.
 
i am slowly switching all mine to steel wheels. after time the rubber wheels seem to soften and flat spot. when moving stiff by yourself it is tuff.
my next vette is a 54 and is it going to be a tuff one. they were a pos when new.
 
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_47732_47732 . These are the ones i use. Never had any of them fly apart or flat spot like those rubber ones. They hold up great going over the grates in the booth.

Shine, the 56 we finished up a few years ago was a basket case....recieved from another shop in a box, they had already started installing the front clip. I can only imagine how an earlier one would be. seems like the mid year cars are of the nicest to work, if there is a such for vettes! lol. i like them though.

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good bit of bodywork done. few more days and she'll be ready for a few more coats of primer.

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Jeremy, how long are you going to let the last round of epoxy cure before you do the final blocking? are you going to use singlestage or BC/CC?
 
I will let set a week. I let this round set a week before i did any blocking and filling also. I will probably go with single stage with clear on top.

And shine, lol. It has been about 3 years since the booth has been painted. It is actually a small booth, width wise. For about 4 years we were painting cars for a local mopar restorer and they have to be painted all together..most of the paint comes from when both doors are open and spraying the jambs. Others when it is loaded down with parts for epoxy. I've only been back in this shop full time for about 4 months now, have 1 side already painted.
 
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