Which base to choose?

E

equalme

I'm planning on repainting the front bumper of my 370z which is a metallic grey (KAV). I was pretty set on the Standox bc due to great color match and easy to spray the metallics evenly...but I also just read that waterborne are hard to spray without the proper setup?

So I am now back to square one looking for a solvent bc that has good color match. I was looking at the sherwin William ultra 7000 but it uses a base stabilizer which is kinda pricey.

Any recommendations?
 
Wanda, Prospray, Matrix or buy the SW and use urethane reducer with an ounce or two of clear activator per mixed quart.
 
Sherwin Williams has another base called atx that's a good match and a lot cheaper. Ultra 7000 is the best to use in Sherwin Williams but sometimes you can get just as good results with the atx, depends on color, budget, and painter.
 
Thanks! I tried finding reviews on the ATX but there isn't much to go by. Wanda seems perfect at that price point considering the great reviews it get. I spoke with a Wanda distributer and they said it mixes 2:1 and a universal reducer can be used. How well does that stuff cover? I'm planning to only paint the front bumper...would a pint rts be enough?
 
mlp-mx6;36397 said:
Doesn't Standox come in solvent-borne also?
Click to expand...

All I kept on finding is Standoblue. None the less, Prospray or Wando looks like the best bang for the buck.
 
so far in every color i have sprayed, the wanda covers as good or better than the diamont i was using for the past 10 years. the wanda reducer is very fast though. i recommend the spi reducer or some other slower quality reducer.
 
Thanks! Looks like Wanda it is.

Now Universal or Euro clear? This is a daily car and sits low to the ground so the front bumper is very prone to rock debris. The color is a dark metallic grey if it matters.

Why the price difference as well?
 
For front bumper, use epoxy as a sealer, activate the base one ounce per mixed quart and use the universal.
 
Barry;36427 said:
For front bumper, use epoxy as a sealer, activate the base one ounce per mixed quart and use the universal.
Click to expand...

Doing it that way has greatly reduced the road rash on all the bumpers
I've done. It really works
 
I've never actually used sealer before. Does it go before or after 2k primer?

Thanks for the help!
 
The bumper is FRP...not sure if it will be primed already or not.

If it is already primed:
1. Check for solubility by wiping it with reducer
2. If good...sand with 600 grit making sure shine is gone
3. Epoxy primer as sealant 1 coat
4. Ready for base

If it is NOT primed at all:
1. Bondo to fix imperfections / sand down
2. 2k regular build primer 3-4 coats / sand with 600 grit
3. Epoxy primer as sealer 1 coat
4. Ready for base

What reducer should I get for Houston, TX temperatures?
Sound about right?
 
I think step one is to dry fit it and perform the required modifications to make it fit and attach securely. It will probably be regular old fiberglass with gelcoat and no primer, but if it's not, your procedure will need to be adjusted accordingly.
 
I primarily shoot dbc, but the last few jobs ive used matrix on and I have zero conplaints. Great coverage with it.
 
jcclark;36436 said:
Doing it that way has greatly reduced the road rash on all the bumpers
I've done. It really works
Click to expand...


I agree,, using epoxy for this for a bit now and it really seems to be the best method.
 
Ok I will be spraying the bumper next week using Wanda HS base. I've read about the benefits of using a small amount of activator in the base...how does it using the activator affect the time between coats? Will it shorten the amount of time I have to shoot the clear after the final coat?

Thanks!
 
Usually activated base has a limited open window, some manufacturers saying as little as 8 hours, but usually overnight is fine. Just can't let it sit forever like you can with unactivated stuff.
 
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