Turbo Clear #5500

jeremyb;11086 said:
there a need to wetsand and buff semigloss black? thats what i meant by rally.....like sikkens has. I just can't stand powdercoating on some things....the sikkens rally is about the most durable low gloss SS i've used...i know bob agrees also!
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OK, I got it now--interesting.
 
oooh! got the wheels turning!!!!!! YEA!

lol..i'm sorry.....back in the booth i go.
 
Barryk;11074 said:
I have no problem with the contest but will say we are out of ideas, as we seem to have all bases covered except for a 15 minute buff clear and that would be easy to make but will never happen until I'm fired.

Looked at all the nano ideas and too many draw backs for that type of clear unless it was for aircraft only, kind of like Mercedes figured out a few years ago when they tried it on their S- series.

For every positive there is a negative and example is I'm about to test a new resin system now for the bed liner and would love to make a clear out of it as it is bullet proof but would not work in clear as it cannot be buffed, no way, no how!

We are always open to ideas.
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How about a clear with the durability of a bed liner? If you buy a new truck why should you have to cover up the paint job with another color just to protect it? Make it so you can spray it smooth or textured. OK, where's my new Iwata? LOL
 
RodMan;11099 said:
How about a clear with the durability of a bed liner? If you buy a new truck why should you have to cover up the paint job with another color just to protect it? Make it so you can spray it smooth or textured. OK, where's my new Iwata? LOL
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That can be done, easy enough but what happens if they get a run on bed side wall or a little dirt in that new bed? Remember, bed liner will not show dirt but clear will.
I'm not being bull-headed but have to look at all potential problems.
 
Would it make sense to come up with a 'production' clear that is NOT 2.1 VOC, something that will match or exceed the Universal as far as flash times and curing times?

The new Production clear is one hell of a nice product, it's only Achilles heel in some peoples mind is the long flash times, I guess some painters are damn impatient, I've met a fair share of them.

I guess a fast clear since the Turbo was axed from the list.......
 
It would be a specialty product. Shouldn't be used if any of those two things would be an issue. Armorcoat makes a product similar in idea. Theirs can be sanded and repaired. This is their website: www.armorcoatusa.com.
Dominion Sure Seal has a similar product: http://www.dominionsureseal.com/productsdetails.asp?catid=39&id=313
Theirs seems to be slower drying and more tolerant of higher temps than Armorcoats.
I think something like this has a market; helmets, high impact areas of cars and trucks, boats (especially bottoms).
 
I would like a restoration style 4:1:1 clear. It's much easier to adjust for temps using reducer instead of stocking several activators.

I think the existing Euro could then be made a bit faster to fill in where there is no more Turbo.
 
i have been using the hell outta the 2.1 production clear.i like it and to some degree i dont,lol!!!

its weird!

if i get any runs whatsoever or any heavy sags i get major solvent pop that cannot be sanded out,this pisses me off to no end.

i have never had any clear that would do that to this extent?



i have tried every clear SPI has to offer except the MS clear and i can say even the 2100 is slow curing time.

i done a black vehicle the entire front clip and rear quarter about 2 weeks ago(my best friends wifes rig)

seen them today in town and i could see my 1500 marks had come back?

i have seen this before in the winter time when we have to rush vehicles to get them out and everything is still curing,once in the sun and heated up real good it will always die out later.


but i sprayed this vehicle in 111 degree temps with metal temps around 109 and used the very slow activator for the 2100 and got some pop,all of it was minor and sanded out.

but why in the hell did it die out later and some of my sand marks come back?Metal temps for 2 days never got under 90 degrees and reached over a 100 before it left after being polished!

i have noticed this not just with the 2100 clear but some of the vehicles i sprayed with UV clear.


i did a cadillac STS this past spring repaired the rear door and quarter and it got hit again in a different area( we have a lot of repeat customers small town and i can always gauge my work later)

it was sprayed with UV in about 75 degree weather set overnight and then in the morning sun for about 1/2 day polished and sent on its way.

i get it back in and look over my area,Die back and some sanding marks are showing?


i am a very anal buffer and make sure that i have no dull areas or marks left when they leave.




why is this? i have used many Brands of clears and i love SPI to no end,just seems most of the clears are not a TRUE production clear imo.maybe im wrong?

hell maybe im doing something wrong,lol!!!!

i would love to see a faster cure clear for my Production work with the Quality of SPI.

just thought i would share what i have been going thru and thinking about.


thank you Barry for making the Hotbo slow activator,lol!!!!it does help when its so hot out!

Travis...
 
The 1500 scratches is very easy to answer, once they are buffed out they cannot reappear and it is always caused by the 1500 scratches getting filled with glazes from the compound and not buffed out, then it takes a couple of days or up to two weeks in the sun to burn off the glaze and the scratches will show.
When you are buffing metal temps of 100 degrees or higher, the compound is going to dry fast and this is very likely to happen.
Only thing I can think of is buff small areas at a time and on the initial cutting up the speed of buffer a little to burn out the glaze.
Maybe the panel should be wiped with a cold rag first? I don't know the answer if that would help or not.

To test to see if the glaze is gone is when you are done buffing, take wax and grease remover to the panel, if scratches show back up, then you know the glaze has filled the scratches instead of the compound getting rid of them.

As for the runs, I can't answer that one.
 
Yeah man, the 1500 comming back is a compound issue. Some compounds have more fillers than others and scratches will come back.
 
Barryk;11151 said:
The 1500 scratches is very easy to answer, once they are buffed out they cannot reappear and it is always caused by the 1500 scratches getting filled with glazes from the compound and not buffed out, then it takes a couple of days or up to two weeks in the sun to burn off the glaze and the scratches will show.
When you are buffing metal temps of 100 degrees or higher, the compound is going to dry fast and this is very likely to happen.
Only thing I can think of is buff small areas at a time and on the initial cutting up the speed of buffer a little to burn out the glaze.
Maybe the panel should be wiped with a cold rag first? I don't know the answer if that would help or not.

To test to see if the glaze is gone is when you are done buffing, take wax and grease remover to the panel, if scratches show back up, then you know the glaze has filled the scratches instead of the compound getting rid of them.

As for the runs, I can't answer that one.
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sweet thanks Barry did not know this!

Runs im a Hosier and always have been,lol!!!

just never had any clear Solvent pop like the 2100 and you said it would

i have always used 3m compunds.


well then i have to buff one this morning and i will do the WG trick see what happens and if its good to go ill ship it.

the peeps dont live to far and the vehicle sits in the direct sun 8 hours a day.

be easy for me to go check on from time to time and have a look see.



thanks again for the response when i was typing last night i was just throwing out what has been rattling around in my head.


as always very greatful for any help and advice,Travis.
 
Travis that happened to me for years until I learned to clean the panels off and make sure the scratches were gone before I went on to my polishing stage.. I use a 50/50 mixture of 90% alcohol and water.. Cheap and effective.. Wax and grease remover works great also..
 
Also, something that may help some of you, I was asked to stop by a shop that had painted a Porsche restro with SPI red today, they were in love with it and wanted me to see it as it has been on the rotisserie in the sun for a week now.

The painter had painted the quarter and door of of a 930 yesterday and had been buffing for over two hours on those two panels and could not get rid of the swirl marks. I could tell he was doing nothing but move around a bunch of glaze.
I wiped the panel with some 700 and bingo, no swirl marks.
 
common mistake of using too much glaze. the swirl remover/glaze should be used just for that...removing the swirls. ask for it to do anymore and you just create more work for yourself. polish real good...then go over with a da and soft black pad and hand rub clean. done.
 
Bondoking;11170 said:
Travis that happened to me for years until I learned to clean the panels off and make sure the scratches were gone before I went on to my polishing stage.. I use a 50/50 mixture of 90% alcohol and water.. Cheap and effective.. Wax and grease remover works great also..
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yeah i feel kinda like a dumbass!!!

i buffed on this truck this morning and went over it 2 times,then took my waterborne spi wax and grease remover,BINGO!!!

it looked like i had barely been buffing!well not that bad but bad enough!

thanks so much for this tip!!!

i will use it for years to come!

i then took the truck and set it out in the sun,temp was around 89 here today and the metal temp got in the middle 90s(saw 98 in a few spots)

brought it back in wiped it down again and nothing had changed.


once again Ignorance got the best of me,but i did learn something as usual with this Bunch.

Travis.
 
I don't know if it is just me getting older, but it seems like the clears these days are harder than ever to buff!
 
Wow, good info here!!! (nothing new on this site) This confirms what happened with my Van I did with Euro last year, although I still haven't rebuffed it yet.
 
crashtech;11198 said:
I don't know if it is just me getting older, but it seems like the clears these days are harder than ever to buff!
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Not really, should be easier but the compounds are always being changed, anything for saving a dollar. (pads also)
 
Barryk;11208 said:
Not really, should be easier but the compounds are always being changed, anything for saving a dollar. (pads also)
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Barry i wonder if the compounds are going to shit these days.



no 1 feel alone with this problem!!!
 
Hotbo;11226 said:
Barry i wonder if the compounds are going to shit these days.



no 1 feel alone with this problem!!!
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I get a lot of calls from production shops where the same problem you have "all of a sudden" starts showing up and they can't figure out why.
Only thing I can tell them is get new and proper pads for the compound they are using and if that don't work, change compounds, one of these two always fixes the problem.
 
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