Sprayed base/clear over cured epoxy

Cold storage, 400g mechanical bond, tough call.
"If" i was to remove base, i'd first kick myself & then look at it as final guide coat.
I'd also try removing it with reducer soaked rags or spray it.
What you pro's think of that?
 
i read it wrong. if base only no big deal. block it off and go. if cleared peeling is the only way.
 
Is it SPI epoxy, or another brand? If it were mine and a driver, I'd have to wait and see how it turned out. If it's on a rotisserie I'd strip it back to epoxy.
 
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Akara..Is there a reason you didn't use 2K primer after the epoxy? After the one month I would have sanded the epoxy with a little rougher paper then applied a couple coats of urethane primer. Then you could have waited as long as you wanted. That's what I'm doing with my '55 Chevy. Waiting till spring to shoot my base and clear.
 
Another concern I noted when re-reading the OP is that the word "scuffed" is used, maybe that means different things to different people but to me it doesn't mean "sanded."

At any rate, Barry said to roll with it so I think that is the best advice, it's a lot of rework to do on a hunch.
 
harbordude said:
Akara..Is there a reason you didn't use 2K primer after the epoxy? After the one month I would have sanded the epoxy with a little rougher paper then applied a couple coats of urethane primer. Then you could have waited as long as you wanted. That's what I'm doing with my '55 Chevy. Waiting till spring to shoot my base and clear.
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Epoxy is not porous. Urethane primer is and could absorb moisture while sitting. Both primers need to be resanded after sitting for a while. They seem to form a hard shell after sitting for a while.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
@Barry @crashtech @shine So if i had one month old epoxy that I sanded with say 400 wet, then sealed it with epoxy mixed 1:1:1, would adhesion be an issue? Or do you have to get your topcoats on while still in the "window"? If I'm confused about this I'm sure others are as well.
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Re-Applying Epoxy as a sealer will get you through this. Remember base coat is always the wink link for adhesion in any paint job.

The fact that it's holding to a tape test. I would go with it. Doing a tape test was a great idea and IMO.
 
elwood said:
Epoxy is not porous. Urethane primer is and could absorb moisture while sitting. Both primers need to be resanded after sitting for a while. They seem to form a hard shell after sitting for a while.
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I prefer to at least freshen it up before I tape it off with a scuff pad or something, even if I just sanded it that week. Piece of mind is worth the extra time to me.
 
crashtech said:
Another concern I noted when re-reading the OP is that the word "scuffed" is used, maybe that means different things to different people but to me it doesn't mean "sanded."

At any rate, Barry said to roll with it so I think that is the best advice, it's a lot of rework to do on a hunch.
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Thanks guys.
I used SPI Epoxy and SPI base/clear
I didn't buy any 2k urethane because I wasn't sure I needed it.
"scuffed" was a poor choice of word.
I sprayed the epoxy unreduced, it laid down with some texture.
I block sanded the texture out of the epoxy with 400, and hand sanded the jambs with 400 and red scotch Brite, then applied base/clear
 
My gut feeling is that you are okay, as long as the epoxy wasn't exposed to higher temps and/or UV light. To me that indicates that it was still in a partially cured state when you sprayed it. Even though it was technically outside the "window," epoxy cures through very slowly.

It's probably not as good as if you'd sealed it, and you might see that in the form of it being more easily rock-chipped than if it was done with sealer, but it's still a lot to redo, especially if tape isn't pulling it off.
 
shine said:
no need for 2k primer over epoxy before color. his problem is he's out of the recoat window.
if there was a sanded tooth it will likely be ok but it's a hell of a gamble .
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Newby question for sure here, yes he is out of the recoat window, however, wouldn't sanding with 400 be ok than ??
 
Donny said:
Newby question for sure here, yes he is out of the recoat window, however, wouldn't sanding with 400 be ok than ??
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from what I've learned recently in this forum, and I'd love for anyone to correct me if I'm wrong, is that unactivated base isn't very sticky or durable and 400 grit mechanical Bond isnt great, so I ended up with a situation that's very borderline acceptable. the rougher the grit the stronger the bond is,
so it would be better to have a 180 grit mechanical Bond to the epoxy and then a chemical bond to activated base.

even more durable would have been 180 grit with epoxy over that and then the chemical bond with single stage, which I should have considered.
 
akara said:
from what I've learned recently in this forum, and I'd love for anyone to correct me if I'm wrong, is that unactivated base isn't very sticky or durable and 400 grit mechanical Bond isnt great, so I ended up with a situation that's very borderline acceptable. the rougher the grit the stronger the bond is,
so it would be better to have a 180 grit mechanical Bond to the epoxy and then a chemical bond to activated base.

even more durable would have been 180 grit with epoxy over that and then the chemical bond with single stage, which I should have considered.
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AHHH, Unactivated base. Thank you.
 
Sorry to pick up an older thread but I am confused. Was the issue here the use of an unactivated base, or the use of 400 grit primed base substrate? Or both?
 
@Nochain Epoxy locks up really tight when it's fully cured, so it's best practice to put something between the fully cured epoxy and the base coat. I don't know if you have body shop experience but the same is true for the primer on factory parts as well, paint won't stick well to OE primer without a sealer in between.
 
what is the difference between spraying basecoat over epoxy sprayed as a primer and epoxy sprayed as a sealer given both were blocked with 600 and were within all the "windows"- time frames, etc..
 
In late on this one.
Helped with a b/c job on a 55 chevy truck.
The owner/painter missed the window on the sealer. {Because he refused to adhere to the TDS info}.:rolleyes:
I saw the lifting in the corners the next day.
I stripped the truck with an air hose. Most of the roof came off in one piece.:(
 
hapcj7 said:
what is the difference between spraying basecoat over epoxy sprayed as a primer and epoxy sprayed as a sealer given both were blocked with 600 and were within all the "windows"- time frames, etc..
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I don’t know how you block reduced epoxy sealer without taking most of it off and breaking through. Sort of defeats the purpose it seems to me. It’s just a thin p*ss coat. Reduced epoxy sealer just gets a quick denib.

Don
 
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