Sprayed base/clear over cured epoxy

A

akara

Promoted Users
first time painter here. I made the mistake of spraying SPI bc/cc right over 1 month old epoxy that was scuffed with 400. It looks fine but I am afraid of adhesion issue/chipping showing up in the future.
What's the best course of action to correct?
try to strip the car with 180 to epoxy under? I'm curious how critical it will be to remove the bc/cc from every nook and crevice of all the jambs spotwelds etc?
Appreciate any tips!
 
It may be acceptable or may chip super easily; no way to know.
If it was my car, id chance it and see as can repaint later on as easily as now.

If a customer's car that creates a lot of other factor to stew over.
 
I guess I did not answer your question.
Take down to epoxy, re-epoxy, and go from there as needed.
 
dhutton01 said:
That’s a good question!
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Yes, no sealer used, missed the epoxy recoat window. epoxy was scuffed with 400.
I made this mistake before I found this amazing forum with all the helpful people here. I'm learning as I go!

Yes, it's my personal car that won't be driven very often... so it's tempting to let it ride but I have all the glass out, all the lights, trim, and bumpers are off now so I should probably fix it now if there will be adhesion problem.

I guess it boils down to two questions.

1. I was going to search on how to do an adhesion test, I can sacrifice the door since it's flat and easy to repaint to try to do a peel test, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for/how easily it should peel?

2. I know in a perfect world it's best to strip it all off 100%, I've created quite the challenge for myself with how many nooks and crannies there are in all the jambs and gutters, and I was wondering how much I could get away with with regards to spraying additional coats of epoxy over stuff to "hold it down"

thanks for the advice everyone
 
Clear packing tape fold one corner over and seal the tape down, pull the tape off. If that doesn't take it off you're good.
 
it's easy for folks to tell you to leave it but they wont be around when your tearing it back apart. tape pulling wont tell you squat. put it in the sun and wait for the bubble.
theres a thread here about a 56 chevy i'm doing . from finished to a hull now.
 

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shine said:
it's easy for folks to tell you to leave it but they wont be around when your tearing it back apart. tape pulling wont tell you squat. put it in the sun and wait for the bubble.
theres a thread here about a 56 chevy i'm doing . from finished to a hull now.
Click to expand...
how far would you strip it? I am afraid of using the heat gun and razor because I'd like to preserve the bodywork underneath.
 
I'm interested in the 1 month history. Was it inside, with moderate temps? Out in the blazing sun for weeks? Because if it was inside with normal temps, I'd roll with it.

There are other questions as well. Was the base activated? Was slow reducer used? Both of those things enhance adhesion.
 
crashtech said:
I'm interested in the 1 month history. Was it inside, with moderate temps? Out in the blazing sun for weeks? Because if it was inside with normal temps, I'd roll with it.

There are other questions as well. Was the base activated? Was slow reducer used? Both of those things enhance adhesion.
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It was inside my dark cold garage here in Seattle during October. I was working in cold temps so I use medium activator, I unfortunately also neglected to activate my base. Ill definitely do that in the future.

for what it's worth, I just put some packing tape on the fender, hood, and trunk, and then yanked the tape off pretty hard and the paint did not peel.
 
akara said:
how far would you strip it? I am afraid of using the heat gun and razor because I'd like to preserve the bodywork underneath.
Click to expand...
use the heat gun right and you can preserve the substraight. it's much easier to do it now than after it's built and you have to take it completely apart.
 

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@Barry @crashtech @shine So if i had one month old epoxy that I sanded with say 400 wet, then sealed it with epoxy mixed 1:1:1, would adhesion be an issue? Or do you have to get your topcoats on while still in the "window"? If I'm confused about this I'm sure others are as well.
 
Yeah it confused me for a while too. Basically seems you have to do a sealer coat up epoxy before base if going on top of epoxy. Some people don’t even like to go without the sealer coat if inside the window. Collision side of the business is used to “fast” methods and scuff and sprays. Certain things you gotta slow down to go fast.
 
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