Solvent pop?? Production clear

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
You might get away with it on that color. Only one way to find out really
Update. So I cut with 1500 2000 3000 buffed. The areas improved but they are still there. I want to fix this. Can I scuff with grey pad. Spray basecoat. Only on this area. Clear only on this area 1 coat. Then clear the whole panel 1 coat? I really don't want to spray a bunch more base and thena bunch more clear because that's alot of material. What should my process be?
 

Attachments

  • 20201101_142601.jpg
    20201101_142601.jpg
    64.2 KB · Views: 60

Jim C

Oldtimer
I have never used the prod clear so barry or someone that does should prob chime in but if it were me i would grey or red pad it, dust in some base on just the area then 2 coats of clear on the whole panel.
 

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
You might get away with it on that color. Only one way to find out really
Just wanted to update. I end up cutting with 1500. 2000 3000 buffed. The areas improved but where still there....so before taking it all down I thought maybe I cut it again starting with 1000....I did...buffed...still there.. so I took the whole area down with 400. (That actually took 20 mins to break thru 3 coats of production clear) then I went over the area with 600 and then 600 the whole panel. Should be fixed by this time next week.
 

Attachments

  • 20201105_171307.jpg
    20201105_171307.jpg
    74.5 KB · Views: 35
  • 20201105_171307.jpg
    20201105_171307.jpg
    74.5 KB · Views: 33
  • 20201105_171311.jpg
    20201105_171311.jpg
    87.7 KB · Views: 37

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
Update to finish this thread out. I re based the are last night. (Spot in over the affected area and then 1 light coat over the whole panel) then 2 wet coats of clear. I didn't epoxy seal the area because there is already more material than I like there. And after 2 coats of grey you could still see a halo around the area. Gave my buddy a shout he recommended lightly sanding with 1000 then final basecoat and that worked great. Few things I learned here and I'd like to share with other amateurs like myself.

1. You literally have to watch paint dry and can't rush flash times
2. Solvent pop will not wetsand and buff out.
3. If the panel looks good. Leave it alone. Slamming more material on can and will come back to bite you.

I think my mistake was not waiting long enough between base and clear. Like suggested earlier in this thread . Next up is hit this with some cut and buff and move on with the progress on the car. Would like to have it driving down the road by new year. Here a couple pictures so far.
 

Attachments

  • 20201110_152453.jpg
    20201110_152453.jpg
    39.1 KB · Views: 20
  • 20201110_154317.jpg
    20201110_154317.jpg
    56.9 KB · Views: 21
  • 20201110_154325.jpg
    20201110_154325.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 21
  • 20201110_174624.jpg
    20201110_174624.jpg
    72.1 KB · Views: 24
  • 20201111_114053.jpg
    20201111_114053.jpg
    107.3 KB · Views: 24
  • 20201101_142420.jpg
    20201101_142420.jpg
    215.8 KB · Views: 23

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
Perfect analogy!
Let say something no paint company would say, but it's the truth.
Many calls mostly northern states
That has used anyone of the clears for a long time, and now like you get a solvent pop, they have done it the same way as before.
Looking at your post, the area was where one coat due to overlap equaled 2 or 3 coats.
Why now?
It is cooling down, and humidity goes up, slowing the evaporation rate, so your summary is excellent, and that is the only correction.
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
Sorry for the delay in answering, but I have been swamped and not doing things I should be doing.
 
Top