Solvent pop?? Production clear

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
good morning. On Friday I had to repaint a section on my car. This was my process.

Was about 90 degrees.
Fixed repair area. Sanded the section with red pad.
3 coats off DBC 15 mins between coats. 30 mins between last coat and first coat of clear.
Production clear iwata lph 35 psi. Slow activator. Laid down nice. Dust nibs as usual.
25 mins later....2nd coat...same process...
35 mins after that....3rd coat same process...
Looked great. Was excited. Turned off fan Go outside to clean my guns come back in 30 mins and there is this area of these tiny bubbles.
Any suggestions to what happened and how to fix this. Hopefully wet sand them out?
I've never had this happen. Nothing changed in my process or equipment. And it didn't happen immediately. Happened after I was done. And its only in random areas not entire panel.
 

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MP&C

Member
Not sure what you have, but to me the defects look too small to be solvent pop. The solvent pop I have experienced in urethanes showed as larger, deeper "pits"...
 

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
Not sure what you have, but to me the defects look too small to be solvent pop. The solvent pop I have experienced in urethanes showed as larger, deeper "pits"...
Could be moisture? But it was moisture wouldn't it be over the whole panel? I'm hoping its in top layer and cuts down. Going to wait a week though
 

texasking

Promoted Users
Are these in the same area as the repair? Normally, if it is the same area, it could be solvent escaping from the primer if it was sprayed heavy to fill pinholes, etc., or insufficient flash between coats.
 

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
Are these in the same area as the repair? Normally, if it is the same area, it could be solvent escaping from the primer if it was sprayed heavy to fill pinholes, etc., or insufficient flash between coats.
No its not. The repair was actually a flat spot that I got when sanding out a bug using my finger instead of a block. My mistake last year. But now the interior is ready to go in and I figured I would finally fix that spot. I blocked it down with 600 and the flat spot was gone. But I broke thru to the epoxy under the basecoat....so I spot reduced epoxy and let it flash for an hour then basecoat. But the bubbles are not in that area. The repair area looks fine? U can't feel the bubbles either....
 

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
How did you prep all the other areas that had basecoat? Or am I misunderstanding?

Don
The process was this.

Blocked 600 the spot repair. It was literally the size of half of a dime.
Broke threw to epoxy in that. .
The i sanded the whole masked off panel with red pad.
Wax n grease. Then tacked off
Them I spot epoxy the dime sized area because I didn't want a weird reaction with the basecoat.
After an hour I hit just that spot area with basecoat. Let it flash. Then I base coated the entire panel.
Then I moved onto the clear stages. As I described in the original post.
I had to do the entire panel in basecoat because I've never blended anything.
After the 2nd coat of clear the panel looked great. But I had enuff mixed up for a 3rd round and I knew I would have to wet sand the dirt nibs. Maybe should had stopped at 2 coats??
 

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
I think you maybe got into trouble spraying three coats of base over scuffed clear with 15 minute flash times. Trapped a lot of solvents.

Don
I should have just left the half dime size imperfection that no one saw except me. I'm thinking let it sit in the sun for a week then cut the clear and let it sit a couple more days then buff
 

Jim C

Oldtimer
unfortunately sanding and buffing isnt going to get rid of it. its going to open all those up and they are going to fill with polish or compound and turn white.
 

Jim C

Oldtimer
Solvent pop is a pia once you get it. Since your in silver you can prob get away with sanding and reclearing. On something like black you would need to rebase as well. When you clear though you are prob going to need to do a couple light tack coats first otherwise every one of those bubbles is going to be a fisheye. Your trying to bridge those bubbles. Its hard to say, sometimes you can clear and it flows right over them and sometimes it doesnt. Tack coats will help.
 

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
Solvent pop is a pia once you get it. Since your in silver you can prob get away with sanding and reclearing. On something like black you would need to rebase as well. When you clear though you are prob going to need to do a couple light tack coats first otherwise every one of those bubbles is going to be a fisheye. Your trying to bridge those bubbles. Its hard to say, sometimes you can clear and it flows right over them and sometimes it doesnt. Tack coats will help.
The color is destroyer grey. Its the color that comes on dodge challengers and chargers. Man this is turning into quite a learning experience
 
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Jim C

Oldtimer
I think youll be fine with that color. Dark colors like black i think it would still look hazy in the sun if you just cleared it. Grey youll be fine.
 

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
I think youll be fine with that color. Dark colors like black i think it would still look hazy in the sun if you just cleared it. Grey youll be fine.
Just want to update. I'm not out of the woods yet but it appears cut with 1500 removes this blemish. I only did a 3x3 inch area today and it looks good. The blem area is extremely hard to see in the sun. You really have to get on it an inch away to find it. But under led lighting (what's in my paint room) it was there. I'll work on it more in the coming days and report back.
 
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