Rust converter

I realize this is an old thread but a friend of mine was telling me about the SPI products and I found the forum.

I am in the same shape as the op after being away from paint and body for close to 15 years or better let the local paint store sell me some Rust Mort. The car I am working on was paint cracked from one side to the other with lots of small rust tracking once all the paint was stripped to bare metal. Sprayed the car down with the rm and let it sit for a couple of days while I tried to research the rm. Saw lots of threads on other forums talking about adhesion issues so decided to sand it back off. Never did wash it off but sanded the entire car back down with 80 grit and shot it with an epoxy primer.

Fast forward to this evening and was reading a lot of the threads here about rust converters and everyone saying that they needed to be reapplied if they had dried and then washed to activate them and get rid of the chemicals but I noticed in this thread specifically mentioned the rm that it could be sanded off with 80.

Am I setting myself up for issues now and do I need to restrip the car, spray the converter on it, wash it and then re-primer it with epoxy or should I be good to go?
 
Its a crap shoot, as to if you will have problems or not, kind of like using lacquer primer, we know it is going to fail but will it be first day in sun, one year, 5 years or 10 years? We just can't guess, all we know is it is going to happen sooner or later.
 
why in the world would you do it before knowing if it will work. 90% of the people swearing by all this crap do not paint, have not finished the car and likely never will , just spreading the same bs they read on the net. just like the ospho bs. your car but i got a maone bet it will blow up in your face first good week in the sun.
 
shine;10415 said:
why in the world would you do it before knowing if it will work. 90% of the people swearing by all this crap do not paint, have not finished the car and likely never will , just spreading the same bs they read on the net. just like the ospho bs. your car but i got a maone bet it will blow up in your face first good week in the sun.
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Like I said, I trusted the person selling me the product to know what they were selling. Now I know otherwise but the damage is done and I need to correct it as I don't want to put something out there that is not right. It has been 15-20 years since I have done any amount of paint or body work. I never washed/rinsed it when it was orig applied and did go back and sand the panels with 80 to try and remove it but if I need to restrip the car and do something different I am not above it as I have not started any body work on it.
 
you have a tough call to make. personally i would just not risk it. all of these products tend to cause problems. it's ok to remove rust and to preserve with it but i just cant see painting over it. the real problem is not with the product but how it is used and some of the info given about it.
 
So what would be the best way to correct this now and move forward? Is blasting the car the only way to get back to square one now. I have time as I am still stripping the firewall and plan on picking up some of the black epoxy to do under the hood based on what I read and saw in one of the other threads.
 
myself i would start over. i refuse to take a job that has been soda blasted or chem stripped. i want no part of that headache . tuff call but tearing down a finished car and starting over is not an option and that is when the problem will show up.
 
Well I started the process of stripping the epoxy back off on the quarters and roof. Luckily I had not touched the hood or trunk yet but the fenders and doors were already in primer as well.

Picked up a gallon of the black epoxy along with the waterbourne cleaner so once I get the panels back to bare metal and work the converted rust layer off and the rust out will spray them along with the firewall and front frame that I had been working on.

I saw an old thread on Hot Rodders from 2005? about using naval jelly, a water bottle and a wire brush to get all the little black spots and pitting out so started that process earlier today on one of the quarters.
 
that was randy fergenson showing how to do it right. there is nothing wrong with using it you just have to do it right. as long as it stays wet you are ok. then you can rinse it off.
 
Lets see if this works. Here's a picture of one of the spots.


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shine;10677 said:
that was randy fergenson showing how to do it right. there is nothing wrong with using it you just have to do it right. as long as it stays wet you are ok. then you can rinse it off.
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Yeah I prob kept it too wet but took heed to the fact everyone said to make sure and keep it wet. I would keep spraying as I was working and then rinse it back off completely and do it over and over again.
 
Jumping in here I have a question about paint stripper. Does a chemical paint stripper need to be neutralized in some fashion before using epoxy? If so what would that be?

I started working on one of my doors today and wound up using some phosfor prime on the inside of the skins (kept it wet and washed it off good) but decided to give some chem strip a shot on the outside... have to say it was quick, quiet, and quite easy compared to the grinder, but before taking the DA to it to finish up I thought it a good idea to see if there is something else I need to do to keep the metal neutral... so to speak.
Thanks
 
hair dryer and a razor blade scraper will work better. any residue left from the chem strip is as bad as acid. and yes it must be rinsed with water while still wet. but it is still not the preferred way .
 
Well after the second day of wire brushes and that mess I gave in today and broke out the sandblaster and some black diamond. It was over 100 degrees in the shop but next few days are supposed to be cooler.
 
Shine is right of course. The easiest way to find out if you got all the remover off is to paint the thing. Anything that you missed will immediately come out of the cracks when the thing is all assembled and shined up.

Aaron
 
i can peel a car with a razor blade in about one day . cleaner , faster and no solvents involved . beats a loud dusty da . put paper down to catch the shavings. clean up is a piece of cake . there was a time when i used chemstrip on vettes. we all did but when we found out it was the #1 reason for problems it came to a halt .
 
Is the razor method for lacquer paints more than enamel? I can't get a start on my mustang and it was painted with Martin Senor enamel 30 years ago over the original paint. I tried heat as well, that only made the pain gummy.
The videos I've seen on you tube all look like they are scraping paint off the side of a house.
 
i just peeled ppg base and clear off the 37. you only warm the paint to the point it does not chip. take smaller bites with the edge of the blade.
 
There is definitely a technique that you have to get used to. Warmed the paint on quarter panel and got the blade at the right angle and off it came. Heck of a lot easier and cleaner than a sander. Quarter cleaned off in about a 1/2 hour.
 
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