iwata blues
- Thread starter shine
- Start date
MJM
Promoted Users
What model Iwata?
I'm a little disappointed with Iwata as I called them a month or so ago to inquire about an Air Gunsa I recently purchased. Upon disassembly of the gun to clean before using it the first time, I noticed a small plastic washer that slips over the backside of the needle that the fluid spring rests on. So I pulled the supplied manual out of the box and looked at the exploded view. It was not shown or listed as a replacement part.
I explained the situation to the gal who answered the phone and she transfered me to an engineer. The engineer didn't answer the call so I left a detailed message and ask for him to call me back. Never got a returned call.
Very poor customer service in my eyes.
I'm a little disappointed with Iwata as I called them a month or so ago to inquire about an Air Gunsa I recently purchased. Upon disassembly of the gun to clean before using it the first time, I noticed a small plastic washer that slips over the backside of the needle that the fluid spring rests on. So I pulled the supplied manual out of the box and looked at the exploded view. It was not shown or listed as a replacement part.
I explained the situation to the gal who answered the phone and she transfered me to an engineer. The engineer didn't answer the call so I left a detailed message and ask for him to call me back. Never got a returned call.
Very poor customer service in my eyes.
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MJM
Promoted Users
I was afraid you would say lph400.
For sale...... New in the box Iwata lph400, never used.
$800 dollars firm!
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Now that's Old School.
I remember several guys using that setup many years ago. Shine a Sata 5000 RP 1.4 or X5500 RP 1.4 would be a real hoser even in the hot conditions you spray in. I think you might even like a 1.3 with the RP. I spray fast and the 1.3 puts out more than enough material. The 5000 is the best gravity gun for clear that I've used.
do you have a pick of this and placement? The reason I ask is when I was spraying Clausens I did it with and older devilibiss I have that has a larger tip size. It uses a plastic washer in the bottom of the nozzle. I had both guns on my bench. When I finished spraying poly and went to epoxy on my lph400, after the first cleanup I notice a plastic washer and was confused where it went. Then I decided I must have left it there from my devilibiss, but maybe not, now I'd like to check.
MJM
Promoted Users
Here is the plastic washer in question.
Washer removed from backside of needle.
Washer installed on backside of needle.
In high heat situations, my experience is better using a pressure cup rather than any gravity feed cup. I really like the 1 qt. pressure cups now. But I still like my 2 qt pot except the weight.
Your fluid flow for a given orifice size is much more oz. per minute out with this set-up than a gravity feed. In the extreme heat--that makes a huge difference. That Bink Model 7 with a 33 needle and fluid nozzle and a 38PM air cap can behave just like HVLP transfer. Very little overspray whem dialed in. Too many people write these off today in my opinion if a person has that available or someone has written them off and they are collecting dust in someone else's old paint cabinet.
I still like use my old Binks Model 18 or 69 and using a pressure cup and a 0.046" to 0.059 fluid tip and the large 63PK air cap and get a nice 15-16" fan for fast application when the weather dictates. No little 8" or 10" fan patterns on a hot day. I now keep the viscosity of my paint product constant (in the range the tech sheet suggests with their temp recommendations for reducer and activator) and then change the fluid nozzle, tip and air cap to match the temps and humidity. Similar ideas can be applied to whatever paint gun brand people like and use today. SATA and Iwata's make and market pressure guns for reason too today. My SATA pressure feed gun from 25 years ago was a good one.
Your fluid flow for a given orifice size is much more oz. per minute out with this set-up than a gravity feed. In the extreme heat--that makes a huge difference. That Bink Model 7 with a 33 needle and fluid nozzle and a 38PM air cap can behave just like HVLP transfer. Very little overspray whem dialed in. Too many people write these off today in my opinion if a person has that available or someone has written them off and they are collecting dust in someone else's old paint cabinet.
I still like use my old Binks Model 18 or 69 and using a pressure cup and a 0.046" to 0.059 fluid tip and the large 63PK air cap and get a nice 15-16" fan for fast application when the weather dictates. No little 8" or 10" fan patterns on a hot day. I now keep the viscosity of my paint product constant (in the range the tech sheet suggests with their temp recommendations for reducer and activator) and then change the fluid nozzle, tip and air cap to match the temps and humidity. Similar ideas can be applied to whatever paint gun brand people like and use today. SATA and Iwata's make and market pressure guns for reason too today. My SATA pressure feed gun from 25 years ago was a good one.
MJM
Promoted Users
Hey my status in the automotive painting world has moved me up from beginner to novice!
I'm not selling it. My price tag is just helping
Shine sell his by low balling me.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I use the LPH400 Silver Cap 1.4 tip more than any other gun, but then I usually paint individual panels.
Just shot some Euro Clear yesterday in 100 degree outdoor temperatures.
For bigger jobs I have a DeVilbiss Tekna Copper with both a 1.3 and 1.4 tip set. It has a much bigger fan than the Iwata LPH 400.
Just shot some Euro Clear yesterday in 100 degree outdoor temperatures.
For bigger jobs I have a DeVilbiss Tekna Copper with both a 1.3 and 1.4 tip set. It has a much bigger fan than the Iwata LPH 400.
MJM
Promoted Users
That is the exact exploded view I have for my Air Gunsa AZ3 HTE. Hence the reason why I called Iwata to find out why I had that plastic washer, and if it was truly needed.
Trying to think like an engineer, I came up with assumptions.
1) The plastic washer was being used so there was no metal to metal contact ( needle body to fluid adjustment spring) which perhaps over time could cause metal dust from the spring turning against the needle body.
2) The washer was being used because the spring is fairly large in circumference. The washer would even out the spring pressure on the back of the needle.
I'm just anal about knowing why things are the way the are.
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
Just used my air gunsa today. Had a year or 2...never seen that washer in the picture
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
The only washer is in "C" of the trigger section but I believe that to be an O-ring based on the picture.
Shine, while you have more painting experience than I do I have the same issue with my LPH400. It sprays a nice pattern but with the summer heat I have to slow way down and be about 4 -5 inches away. I started using my LPH 440 with a 1.8 to spray epoxy and it’s a lot faster but maybe with a little peel but that’s ok on epoxy.
I was thinking of getting a faster gun too but would need more feedback. I like guns that don’t have seals that go bad so it would be either another Iwata or a new Sata. Speaking of Sata is it better to go with a digital or non? I would be buying for a single stage or clear gun.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Doesn't really matter IMO. Digital will show the pressure at the gun and with the trigger pulled but a regulator will do the same thing. If money is tight, non digital works just fine. BTW, my favorite clear gun of all time is my Sata 5000 RP 1.3 and it's non digital.
If you are interested in a Sata for clear or SS, then a RP is the one to choose. The HVLP Sata's do not spray clear/ss very well. A good choice would be 5000 RP 1.3 or x5500 RP 1.3 "O" nozzle.
Spraygunsdirect in the UK is the best place to purchase one ATM.
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