D
Deleted member 7
Suddenly there is a smell of moth balls in this room 
... LOL!!!! 380?? Isnt that an engine??
... LOL!!!! 380?? Isnt that an engine??
B
Bob Hollinshead
Does anyone have resources for acrylic lacquer? I have a 68 Chev that is still in it's original white-very low mileage original car that is going to need some small spot repairs done. I need to find someone to mix me some lacquer and supply some minor amounts of tint to dial in the color.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I wonder if base and SPI intercoat could be utilized to good effect there. I remember hearing it has UV additive. Maybe I'm crazy. I remember Spies had a 1K cut in clear that I once experimented with by painting a Caddy fender. It buffed out gorgeous! I don't know how long it lasted though.
Close but the intercoat has to much polyol in it to work good, it could but take a lot of plying and experimenting.
He just needs to find a PPG or BASF jobber that still has lacquer mixing colors, he might call customer service for a jobber, shipping would be next issue.
He just needs to find a PPG or BASF jobber that still has lacquer mixing colors, he might call customer service for a jobber, shipping would be next issue.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
shine;3310 said:
X2 Can't wait to see your progress.
J
jeremyb
just updated over in the projects forum. I'm liking the epoxy deal. Shot it through a sata 2.0, 2 coats and great build for epoxy!
OK guys, no doubt it is suicide for a company to recommend abusing a product but I do know what the product will do, so be nice to me when you read this as it is my favorite example of how great this epoxy is.
A good friend who owns a Restro shop, i was visiting about 4-6 years ago and he was doing a 69 firebird for his brother, the rear window channel was shot after being sand blasted with baby holes all the way through. He asked if I would lead it for him, no thanks, to out of practice, so here is what we did.
Put duct tape on the back side and bend the duct tape up along the edge and shot epoxy, over an hour 5-6 coats, next day pulled the duct tape off, just perfect and smooth as can be, saw the car a few months later and like he said, this is the strongest piece on the whole car, glued in window and he has never had an issue with the channel, saved a lot of hand sanding and labor.
To this day, everytime he calls me, first thing he says to me, the rear glass fell out. LOL
Would I dare say, before anyone calls me a butcher, work smarter not harder. LOL
A good friend who owns a Restro shop, i was visiting about 4-6 years ago and he was doing a 69 firebird for his brother, the rear window channel was shot after being sand blasted with baby holes all the way through. He asked if I would lead it for him, no thanks, to out of practice, so here is what we did.
Put duct tape on the back side and bend the duct tape up along the edge and shot epoxy, over an hour 5-6 coats, next day pulled the duct tape off, just perfect and smooth as can be, saw the car a few months later and like he said, this is the strongest piece on the whole car, glued in window and he has never had an issue with the channel, saved a lot of hand sanding and labor.
To this day, everytime he calls me, first thing he says to me, the rear glass fell out. LOL
Would I dare say, before anyone calls me a butcher, work smarter not harder. LOL
Bob Heine
Oldtimer
I have two nearly identical holes in the birdcage on my Vette. Looks like a fine opportunity to stretch the limits of the epoxy....
I've thought about welding these holes closed but I think that involves detaching the whole front end or cutting a big section of fiberglass out of the top of the fenders.
I've thought about welding these holes closed but I think that involves detaching the whole front end or cutting a big section of fiberglass out of the top of the fenders.
S
Senile Old Fart
Back in the day I had a big old soldering iron (electric). I would have cleaned that hole up real well, then fluxed it,, tinned it, and then filled it over with 50/50 solder.
Lost the darn iron in a garage fire
Available up to 550 watts: Mine was a 300
Lost the darn iron in a garage fire
Available up to 550 watts: Mine was a 300
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NoobDude
Barryk;3586 said:
What a reference site!
I just found some pin size holes in filler I'd already covered with epoxy and was wondering what to do about them. So I do a quick search and what do ya know... this thread pops up. From what I 'think' I'm reading here all I need to do is dab a few drops on them with a small paint brush and smooth em off when dry. I also found about a 2mm small hole at the bottom of the cab back thats going to get the same treatment.
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NoobDude
I should maybe pick something like that up Strum, but then again since I'm using the epoxy to build with in the first place (per Shine's technique) I'm thinking it just makes sense to go ahead and use it for the misc 80 grit or smaller scratches. I just went out and in a few minutes using a small artists paint brush was able to dab any low spots that revealed themselves from my blocking and anything else I could find that didn't look right. And it used way less than spraying the whole thing again. In the morning I'll knock em back down and if need be I'll dab them again. I just didn't want to start making a sandwich of primer and filler or glaze. As to the pinner at the bottom of the cab... I'd already gone back and welded in several small holes that revealed themselves after I primed the first time but somehow had missed that one and didn't see it till I'd painted again. I'll dab a couple more coats on it tonight and see how it acts tomorrow. If I think it'll fail I'll throw a little JB at it but I think the epoxy is gonna do the trick.