Friendly Reminder
- Thread starter 1A Rock
- Start date
shine
Member
the big difference between compressors and cars is the fuel contamination. your compressor oil is not going to suffer this. biggest problem is moisture. the site glass tells the story. if the oil turns slightly milky it's time to change. i only change once a year . i use it so little now that i most likely won't change that often . they dont hild much so cost is not the issue. cleaning your filter is more important.
AAE
Learner
Thanks. It sounds like the Mobil 1 is an all rounder.
A private label is never as good as a good company. I dont care what the company is making either.
Sparky
Promoted Users
I use to oversee the maintenance of two 1.5 megawatt wind turbines. Gearboxes are filled with 80+ gallons of Mobil 520 XLP synthetic oil. Stuff is like molasses. The Mobil one oil engineer comes out once a year to borescope the gearbox, and we do quarterly oil samples. I asked the engineer about oil additives, mystery oil, sea foam, etc. He said, “ Mobil has spent millions to perfect the oils in its line up, do you think we would have left something out that only sea foam could fix?” He said truth is most oil additives are a detriment to the oils performance. I run Mobil One in my equipment and Rottila in my diesel truck.
"In a car majority of the engine wear is on cold start-up, so I would GUESS the same in a compressor, never tore into one."
Most smaller compressors are oil bath systems. At startup there is very little load on the rotating members until the psi starts to rise. Larger compressor do have oil pumps with coolers. Screw compressors run horizontally and in a constant bath. They use oil sperators to remove the oil from the air. We changed those every 8000 hrs.
When we bought the chevelle and tore the motor down there was a least a inch of sluge in the pan with only a open pocket around the sump....flat cam, bearings were toast and i've never seen lifters this bad so I'm guessing no oil change just added.
Most smaller compressors are oil bath systems. At startup there is very little load on the rotating members until the psi starts to rise. Larger compressor do have oil pumps with coolers. Screw compressors run horizontally and in a constant bath. They use oil sperators to remove the oil from the air. We changed those every 8000 hrs.
When we bought the chevelle and tore the motor down there was a least a inch of sluge in the pan with only a open pocket around the sump....flat cam, bearings were toast and i've never seen lifters this bad so I'm guessing no oil change just added.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
Save yourself the money and get some Mobil 1 synthetic.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I'm not sold on the use of gasoline engine oil in an air compressor, since many of the additives that deal with combustion byproducts would be unneeded. Beyond that I don't know if any of those additives would be considered a more serious refinish contaminant than just the oil itself, which we have to assume is present in tiny quantities in the air supply.
Toolin
Promoted Users
Makes a lot of sense to me. When I bought my Ingersoll Rand T30 in 1996 they gave you an extended warranty if you also purchased a maintenance kit. Came with 2 intake filters and 4 quarts of synthetic compressor oil. Since then I have been using Rotella
Seeing that Barry and other respected members use synthetic engine oils meant for combustion engines both gasoline and diesel I suspect it is a non-issue.
Seeing that Barry and other respected members use synthetic engine oils meant for combustion engines both gasoline and diesel I suspect it is a non-issue.
