Friendly Reminder

1A Rock

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Which tool will shut your shop down completely? What do you use every day all day and probably never think about it unless it stops? I changed the oil in my compressor yesterday, oil is cheaper than a compressor. I took a picture of the nasty glop it drained out but, am afraid it may be too graphic for some viewers.
 
Which tool will shut your shop down completely? What do you use every day all day and probably never think about it unless it stops? I changed the oil in my compressor yesterday, oil is cheaper than a compressor. I took a picture of the nasty glop it drained out but, am afraid it may be too graphic for some viewers.

Since you've drained it, fill it up and leave it a 1/4 low, then top it of with Marvel Mystery oil. Run the compressor until it's good and hot. Drain that oil and refill with compressor oil.
 
Curious as to why?

Marvel Mystery Oil has lubrication and cleaning properties. Since the original poster said nasty globs (sludge) of oil came out, Marvel's Mystery oil will help break down any remaining sludge left on the walls and piston rod (s).

I use it in all of my engines, from cars to lawn mowers, to weed wackers. Anything that uses oil.
 
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Marvel Mystery Oil has lubrication and cleaning properties. Since the original poster said nasty globs (sludge) of oil came out, Marvel's Mystery oil will help break down any remaining sludge left on the walls and piston rod (s).

I use it in all of my engines, from cars to lawn mowers, to weed wackers. Anything that uses oil.
I can see where it may be good for that compressor if it has a detergent type effect and helps remove the gunk. Honestly though I'm skeptical of all these products and their claims. Modern oil is so advanced and engineered that it doesn't need these additives. I used to argue with my Dad all the time about STP oil treatment back in the 90's. He wanted to use it in everything and I felt it was a complete waste of money and probably did more harm than good with the more modern oil we had then. Mobil 1 Castrol etc. Oil has advanced so far from the 1930's 40's and 50's that additional unknown additives are completely unnecessary. One exception would be flat tappet style cams and zinc. But there are good oils for that like Joe Gibbs Driven. I've got a lawnmower that is pushing 20 years old that has lived a hard life, cuts 5 acres of lawn every week over some rough terrain. All I've ever done motorwise is change the oil and filter regularly. Motor still going strong. My feeling is if oil needed these additives the oil companies would have included them. Best thing anyone can do is change oil regularly. Whether it's a compressor, mower, car whatever.
I have used the Marvel oil in my air tools. Not religious about it though.
 
Y'all encouraged me to change the oil in my compressor. 1 year old so probably time.
$32.77 for a liter of Ingersoll Rand synthetic oil. Yikes! But cheaper than a new machine.
 
My compressor calls for straight 30 weight with no additives (SA), so it's good to change it on the regular. I've never been sure why a modern oil can't be used in place of the straight 30, but since it works, I haven't spent a whole lot of brain power on it.
 
My compressor calls for straight 30 weight with no additives (SA), so it's good to change it on the regular. I've never been sure why a modern oil can't be used in place of the straight 30, but since it works, I haven't spent a whole lot of brain power on it.
It can; it is all BS.
I have three ingor s—Rand 80 gal tanks.
One is 24 years old and never has seen anything but moble1 15w50.
The other 2 would be about 13 to 16 years, and I have seen only moble one, but whatever weights, I have extra. 0w40, 5w20, 0w30, and 15w50.
All get changed once a year.
 
My compressor calls for straight 30 weight with no additives (SA), so it's good to change it on the regular. I've never been sure why a modern oil can't be used in place of the straight 30, but since it works, I haven't spent a whole lot of brain power on it.
Same here.
 
No two oils are made the same. Understanding the make up properties that are used in oil, allows the end user, to use an oil that is best tailored for that engine/motor needs.

AAA-Research-Report-Synthetic-vs-Conventional_FINAL-EXTERNAL.pdf
 
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Your right my air compressor is one tool that pretty much shuts the shop down. But you can live without one as we all did in the beginning. Just not very fun!
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Rotella, i put that shit in everything.....
Place I worked at had a Worthington 100hp recep compressor that we ran Rotella in, used it as a emerg back up. We called it old thumper. Piston rod was mounted to a slide similar to a steam locomotive drive. It came out of the old Martin bomber plant.
 
Years ago, tests we would do were new engine tear it down mic it put together and run it for 100,000-mile eqvelant and mic it.
No wear at all, and stock crude oil showed a lot of wear.
30 and 40 weights get out of grade in a car at about 800 miles; always use a multi-grade as they stay in grade.
 
the idea behind the detergent free/ non additive 30w is that since a compressor doesnt have an oil filter to pick up metals and particles in the oil, an automotive detergent oil is made to keep those particles suspend so the filer can remove them. detergent free oil will allow those particles to settle out in the crankcase. now in the real world how much does that matter? who knows and like barry said, if you use a good oil like mobile 1 then your still probably fine. i have been using this stuff. fairly reasonable. if it is good....only time will tell i guess.

 
I like the idea of a multi-vis, my poor compressor lives in an insulated shack on the outside of the building, and on very cold mornings I can hear it struggle a bit to get going.
 
Jim that is the argument for a non-detergent oil, but it is only half the story and, like everything
A lot of other factors are involved.

Crash, the cold struggle would be solved
With a multi-viscosity.
In a car majority of the engine wear is on cold start-up, so I would GUESS the same in a compressor, never tore into one.
 
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