For the newER painters.

hi, im justin. new to the site. i got a couple of questions for barry if you dont mind. over christmas break im gonna be painting my truck. bc/cc. i learned quite a bit about wetsanding and buffing from the local body shop but i definitely like what you stated. 600 grit will get the flat finish. im just trying to come up with plan here. idk if i should do 3 or 4 coats of clear? the wetsand 600, 1000, 1500 like you said. then what pad and compound do you prefer to use? ive heard compound with a wool pad then finsish polishing with a wool? any advice would be great. thanks in advance
 
flynams;1124 said:
Just get the material on there in enough thickness and spend the time to get it flat, and the women will show you their cleavage in the reflection as they bend over to admire your work. Course, I'm too old for that sort of thing

Was thinking about this statement and have now decided I"ll be colorsanding after I'm done this weekend.
 
flynams;1124 said:
Just get the material on there in enough thickness and spend the time to get it flat, and the women will show you their cleavage in the reflection as they bend over to admire your work. Course, I'm too old for that sort of thing

Was thinking about this statement and have now decided I"ll be colorsanding after I'm done this weekend.
 
Oilcan,

With newer painters I always recommend using 800 instead of 400 or 600 to avoid potential sand through.
I would look at 800 then 1000 or 1200 and then 1500, that should give you a nice job and less chance of sand through.

As far as buffing pads, that is where most people screw up really bad, not knowing the proper cutting pad to work with this or that compound, a lot different today then years ago when all we had were buffing and polishing pads, today there are many grades of cutting pads just for one product.

All I can say here is depending on what system you are using find out all the pad choices.
\
I have been contacted by Sungold and they are sending me a buffing kit to finish the vette with, they have their own pads that they are sending and I have agreed to hold up buffing and use their product.
 
JMO's ..........Alot of it has to do with what kind of block you are using. If you're using aggressive grits you can get away with a softer block because the cut is more aggressive the paper won't follow the defects, you can use finer grits to cut it flat if you use a rigid block and keep your paper at only one thickness. And the buffing time is dependant on how fine you do the sanding-some jobs get finished with one polish if the sanding is done to 4000. It's all a lot of work either which way you go..... I've finished sanding at 800 and started with aggressive compounds but like the results I get with finer sanding grits better. The more wheel time the more chance of disturbing the straightness IMO,the wheel doesn't cut flat like a block.
 
Back
Top