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Crazing.

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
#24
I would say that it is more than likely what Barry mentioned (he is the Guru afterall:)). 3 coats will dry/cure slower than 2 and I'll bet you still had some epoxy solvent coming off as you sprayed base. Plus that area might have gotten double coated as you laid down each coat. How long did you wait between coats of epoxy? In the future if anyone is spraying 3 coat of epoxy in one session, make sure you give it minimum 45 minutes to 1 hour between coats. Obviously keep it above 70 degrees and if you can get it outside for a full day do so. Two full days would be better. If not you need to wait a minimum of 4-5 days (temps above 70 the whole time) 7 days would be better, before you apply any base (ideally before you sand it as well).
 
#25
I will admit I pushed the epoxy time. The second factor is the doors are on stands so I would do one side, walk around to the other and start in the middle again. Likely doing a double overlap in this area each time.
 
#26
If I know I "have" to get on a part soon. I only put one coat of epoxy and the next day I spray with 2k. This approach gives you some benefit of the epoxy but the more user friendliness of the 2k. I like epoxy and use it a good bit, but I double the recommended time especially with cooler nights from now until spring. Three coats and very well 4 by the way you explaining your procedure of spraying the door. Could have taken 5-6 days to be ready with these cool nights. Just my opinion. From now until spring I will spray one coat of unreduced epoxy and wait a day and then 2k. We all do it our own way and there's more than one good way and unfortunately a whole lot of wrong ways. My way gets a lot of the epoxy adhesion and corrosion resistance (not as much as 2-3 coats, but...) and benefits of 2k.
 
#27
If I know I "have" to get on a part soon. I only put one coat of epoxy and the next day I spray with 2k. This approach gives you some benefit of the epoxy but the more user friendliness of the 2k. I like epoxy and use it a good bit, but I double the recommended time especially with cooler nights from now until spring. Three coats and very well 4 by the way you explaining your procedure of spraying the door. Could have taken 5-6 days to be ready with these cool nights. Just my opinion. From now until spring I will spray one coat of unreduced epoxy and wait a day and then 2k. We all do it our own way and there's more than one good way and unfortunately a whole lot of wrong ways. My way gets a lot of the epoxy adhesion and corrosion resistance (not as much as 2-3 coats, but...) and benefits of 2k.
I was really only using he epoxy to get a consistent white color for the light blue. If I had known the AA base covered so well I would have just used grey epoxy and one coat. There was really no need to do what I did.
 
#29
I was really only using he epoxy to get a consistent white color for the light blue. If I had known the AA base covered so well I would have just used grey epoxy and one coat. There was really no need to do what I did.
I see. One thing that keeps this craft interesting is it's similar from day to day, but never the same. When I'm doing a high end paint job I like certain undercoats for certain colors too because I think it makes them brighter and crisper for the lack of a better term. There is a reason a mirror is "black" behind the silver coat.
 
#30
This son of a bitch is going to fight me the whole way..... I sanded a few more panels tonight and I found more places that crazed like the above. I wanted to get a few panels ready for decals and clear tomorrow so I wet sanded then 710'ed them and put them in the sun for an hour. I ended up sanding down to the white epoxy primer in a few spots. When I sprayed on the base to touch up the bad spots the SOB started lifting just like this again around the edge where the old base/clear feathered into the white epoxy.....

All I can think of now is the epoxy has absorbed enough moisture that an hour was not enough..... I will wet sand it AGAIN tomorrow and wait for hours after cleaning it and get out the rosary beads.....
 
#31
I had a similar cluster awhile ago with DBC base. Had to cover the feathered base with epoxy to stop it. I don’t think your issue is moisture. Reducer is getting under the base and causing it to lift.

I have a vague recollection of Shine saying Motobase is bad for this.

Don
 
#33
What,if anything, could you have done differently on this one than what you did on the '68? That one turned out great.
That one was all SPI products! Things went great until the MotoBase ;) I will say I am trying to do more in a single session than the Coronet. I was learning and tinkering so I did not push things as fast.
 

elwood

Registered Users
#34
I had similar problem with diamont so I don't think it's isolated to a particular brand. Took forever to get it to lay down without wrinkling.
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#37
Here is the only fact we do know.
The cause is solvent, when shops go through something like this they must fit it as car car needs to go (insurance shops).
With solvents the only real easy fix is a 50 year old at least statement that has always held true.
"Time is on your side"
Walk away take a break, give it sunlight if you can.
Come back next week and fix.
 
#38
Here is the only fact we do know.
The cause is solvent, when shops go through something like this they must fit it as car car needs to go (insurance shops).
With solvents the only real easy fix is a 50 year old at least statement that has always held true.
"Time is on your side"
Walk away take a break, give it sunlight if you can.
Come back next week and fix.
Thanks Barry, I am going to force myself to slow down today.
 
#39
So what Barry predicted in the beginning is what happened last night with no clear on the base. It wrinkled but this morning you can barely see it. Just to be clear there was never any issues with the SPI epoxy primer. That did not lift or wrinkle. It was the Motobase reducer attacking its own base that was already laid down.
 
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