MJM
Promoted Users
Well I was basically called an idiot for following the directions!!!
That's disheartening ......
What type of gram scale do you have, and how
low will the scale record grams, 1gram..... 5 grams?
Well I was basically called an idiot for following the directions!!!
Don’t overthink it. If you want less than a quart, mix a half quart and use a half of the quarter on the hardener bottle. It doesn’t need to be any more precise than that….Well I was basically called an idiot for following the directions!!!
I get that now. Since I never used this before, I was just going by what everyone says to do, do what the data sheets say. I borrowed the scale from where I work and it measures down to a hundredth of a gram.
I'm not sure what he means by that either. I expect you will probably need another coat or two. 5 mils is not going to fill any significant lows. Good that you are not piling it on though. Easy to apply too much and sand too little.I put a 2.0 nozzle on the gun and it sprayed no problem. I didn't get what they meant by the three passes equals one coat. I applied what I considered 1 wet coat and will apply another on Friday if needed. I have not sanded it yet.
JMO but it would probably be a good idea to spray another coat on there. It has an open recoat window so it wouldn't be a hassle. That way you will have enough material on there to block out with. If not, block evenly and as soon as you start seeing the epoxy in places as you are blocking, stop. Then apply 1-2 more coats. If you have significant lows apply some 2 part glaze in those places and sand them, before re-priming.I did a lot of the “rough in” bodywork with regular filler on the epoxy. I blocked that filler with 80 grit until I started hitting metal in a few spots. Then I sprayed 2 more coats of epoxy, waited 3 days, lightly sanded the epoxy and then sprayed 1 coat of the polyester primer. My goal is to try and not hit the last layer of epoxy when I start block sanding the polyester primer.
Only exception to this is if you have filler that may be slightly high in places where it was not sanded enough. Run your hand over the panels often as you are blocking so that you can feel the highs and lows in the panel. If you are having trouble feeling with your hand, closing your eyes as you are running your hand over it helps, as does using a thin cloth or paper towel between your hand and the panel.If not, block evenly and as soon as you start seeing the epoxy in places as you are blocking, stop.
It’s basically spray on body filler. Don’t do anything you wouldn’t do with body filler….Here's Clausen's TDS for Rust Defender. After reading this for the 100th time, I'm not sure if I can use SPI 710 wax&grease on it before applying sealer?
Not going to hurt a thing. Just give it extra time to dry. Or blow it off to help it along.Here's Clausen's TDS for Rust Defender. After reading this for the 100th time, I'm not sure if I can use SPI 710 wax&grease on it before applying sealer?
I don’t see how that can be reliably specified since it will vary with the gun and the person. It’s not something I worry about in my backyard hack universe. Most of it gets sanded off and ends up on the floor anyway…^^^ what is the advertised mill build per sprayed coat with Sandy?
Oh, thanks for taking one for the team using the product first.
I don’t see how that can be reliably specified since it will vary with the gun and the person. It’s not something I worry about in my backyard hack universe. Most of it gets sanded off and ends up on the floor anyway…
I use a Sata poly gun with a 2.5 nozzle FWIW.
Don