MJM
Promoted Users
That's disheartening ......
What type of gram scale do you have, and how
low will the scale record grams, 1gram..... 5 grams?
Clausen Sandy Polyester Primer
- Thread starter aldefed
- Start date
That's disheartening ......
What type of gram scale do you have, and how
low will the scale record grams, 1gram..... 5 grams?
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Don’t overthink it. If you want less than a quart, mix a half quart and use a half of the quarter on the hardener bottle. It doesn’t need to be any more precise than that….
Don
MJM
Promoted Users
Look on the bright side if there is one, you've saved me from going thru what you have by following directions.
That being said, how does the product spray and sand?
Did your product say that three sprayed passes equals one coat?
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I'm not sure what he means by that either. I expect you will probably need another coat or two. 5 mils is not going to fill any significant lows. Good that you are not piling it on though. Easy to apply too much and sand too little.
Also don't use 400-600 grit paper to start with like the TDS says. That is wrong. That is what you could finish with, not start with. Use something coarse. 180 would be the finest that you would want to use to do your initial sanding. 120 grit is probably the ideal grit to sand poly primer with, especially if you have multiple coats on there.
I did a lot of the “rough in” bodywork with regular filler on the epoxy. I blocked that filler with 80 grit until I started hitting metal in a few spots. Then I sprayed 2 more coats of epoxy, waited 3 days, lightly sanded the epoxy and then sprayed 1 coat of the polyester primer. My goal is to try and not hit the last layer of epoxy when I start block sanding the polyester primer.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
JMO but it would probably be a good idea to spray another coat on there. It has an open recoat window so it wouldn't be a hassle. That way you will have enough material on there to block out with. If not, block evenly and as soon as you start seeing the epoxy in places as you are blocking, stop. Then apply 1-2 more coats. If you have significant lows apply some 2 part glaze in those places and sand them, before re-priming.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Only exception to this is if you have filler that may be slightly high in places where it was not sanded enough. Run your hand over the panels often as you are blocking so that you can feel the highs and lows in the panel. If you are having trouble feeling with your hand, closing your eyes as you are running your hand over it helps, as does using a thin cloth or paper towel between your hand and the panel.
Thank you for the suggestions. I did see a couple low spots as I was spraying. I ran out of time with the epoxy recoat window so there were a couple areas I was not able to block out fully. I think I will address those areas first then apply a second coat of polyester primer over everything.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Bumping this for an update. I had it from a reliable, cough cough, source that Clausen Sandy is the same as Rust Defender and All U Need without the zinc. Since I use epoxy on bare metal I have no need for the zinc. Sandy is half the price of Rust Defender. I used it on my latest project. I can report it sprays and sands the same as Rust Defender and All U Need. The color is a very light gray but it does contrast on the first sanding. Because it is so light in color black dry guide coat shows up very well which is great for my ageing eyesight. I can recommend this poly primer to anyone who is used to using the other Clausen poly primers. It’s good stuff imo. The price is excellent compared to Rust Defender.
Don
Don
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
MJM
Promoted Users
Fair enough...............Quid Pro Quo, Dr. Lecter......
Looked up the TDS for Clausen Sandy. It appears to have the exact same handling specifications as the other line of Clausen polyester primers.
"APPLICATION WHEN YOU SPRAY – SANDY CAN BE SPRAYED, BRUSHED, ROLLED OR POURED ONAvoid spraying coatings when humidity is high. Optimal humidity is 30% to 50%. First spray a medium wetcoat and allow to totally cure. Then spray additional coats as needed, allowing each coat to flash-off for 2-3minutes between coats to prevent runs and snags. Shake spray gun cup before each application. Avoidspraying excessive amounts. Sandy can be successfully built to a thickness of 8 mils. Best Applied with anAccuSpray 10G gun with a 2.0 fluid nozzle. The AccuSpray 10G gun atomizes with 3.5 PSI at the fluidnozzle eliminating 70% of the over spray.One medium wet coat will produce 5 mils of build. One medium wet coat equals to 3 slow passes of yourspray gun. WET COAT. The 5-mil build will cover 36 grit sanding marks in medal, aluminum, fiberglass,body filler and wood. If orange peeling or dry spraying occurs, your spray gun is not itomizing the 86%solid material of SANDY. Reduction of this product with acetone or a polyurethane reducer will helpmaterial flow. If reductions are needed, 3% is minimum and 5% is maximum. For temperatures 70 to 80degrees use acetone, 80 to 100 degrees use a polyurethane reducer. Time to recoat is unlimited. SANDYDOES NOT HAVE A WINDOW.Do Not overbuild. Remember 5 mils is one medium wet coat, 5 to 8 mils of build isrecommended for a paintable surface.B
Do Not overbuild. Remember 5 mils is one medium wet coat, 5 to 8 mils of build isrecommended for a paintable surface"
I used some Sandy back in the summer and it worked really good with a Tekna 2.5 I will say I only used about half of the gallon mixing to quarts separately applications. I went back to use some of the other half gallon about 4 months later and when I opened the can it looked wierd and had crystals formed on top. I guess once it is opened you have a short time to use it. Just thought I would share this.