Clausen Sandy Polyester Primer

crashtech said:
It depends on some things like ambient temps, but I have been double coating, waiting 2 hours, double coating again, waiting several hours, then a last double coat. When we do a job like stripping a hood, this way of priming is one round and done, it can be sanded and painted in about 48 hours. Keep in mind the double coat is NOT really 2 coats of epoxy, it's more like two slightly more than half coats or something thereabouts.
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So you can achieve those “three” coats in a full day? And you say sanded and painted…after you sand you still need a reduced sealer coat of epoxy before base correct?
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
When you double coat, if you were doing an overall or multiple panels, are you going over everything then coming back immediately and going over everything again? Or are you doing one panel then immediately putting another coat on the panel and moving on to the next? I've never tried it with epoxy but want to on the one I'm nearing having ready for primer.
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When I painted the roof of that camper, I had to physically stand on the roof, start at one end, bend over and spray while walking backwards to the other end.

I brought a pair of clean socks that I put on right before I crawled up on the roof. Because I wouldn’t be able to walk on wet primer to spray the second coat, Barry instructed me to double coat it, to which I sprayed a pass and then the return pass was a second pass over what I just sprayed. I also did this with the single stage.

There were no problems with this. That it was in direct sun probably helped.

(The roof was so hot it was burning my feet and was actually making the paint blister to some extent. )
 
Whitesnake said:
So you can achieve those “three” coats in a full day? And you say sanded and painted…after you sand you still need a reduced sealer coat of epoxy before base correct?
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Absolutely, as long as it's not too cold and you're not hammering it on, there's no problem with 3 double coats in a day. Typically I do not seal when the epoxy sanded and still fresh, though sealing with epoxy has a strong following and anyone that wants to should seal. I do activate the basecoat, always.
 
ksungela said:
Well I did it, I finally sprayed a gallon of Sandy on some vette panels. Did 2 coats of epoxy on the bare fiberglass, waited 48 hrs, then sprayed 3 coats of Sandy. I thinned it with some acetone so it sprayed easier using the green Vaper gun with the tip drilled out to 2.5. I blocked it with 80 grit using Dean's long block. Block was great and the Sandy sanded like All you Need. I'm happy with it. I see a fellow corvette building using Duratec's polyester primer, so I may give that a try too.
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I used duratec vinylester primer a good bit. It is way superior to polyester primer but don’t try to pound it on it will crater and it is very hard to sand. But is some tough stuff. Most the time I try to use just epoxy anymore.
 
To answer a previous post, I've tried the Eliminator from USC, but frankly forgot the results as I was trying a few different brands of HB primers including Roberlo. I remember one of them left a gritty surface. I still have some Eliminator left, so I'll try it again. The Duratec rep. suggested using their 707-061 product which was the easiest to sand. For anyone that has used Duratec, which part number did you use?
 
1799-006 can get in white and black as well once you break the skin off it isn’t the worst thing to sand. They say the vinylester waterproof. I always put epoxy under it for added adhesion and a final prime with epoxy.
 
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