Can't get DS door gapped and aligned properly- gap is too big or body lines don't match.

[Chris_Hamilton]

I don't think I'd want to cut that quarter like that. I'd do whatever I had to, to avoid that.

If I was doing it, I'd want to verify where that line is compared to the front fender first like MJM said. Then I would de-skin the door. I just don't see any easy way to do it so de-skin the door. I would mark out the new line with string or a yardstick. Then tap lightly with something in portions across the line to mark it so you could see it on the backside and use a marker on the backside to show the center of the line. I use a small blocking hammer and a mallet, other things would work like a blunt pointed chisel. Then using a blocking hammer like this:

I would block on the back side of the skin into a sandbag the new "line". Once I did that I would then use a hammer and dolly to create the line in the correct location.

Using the dolly pictured you would hold the pointed end where my finger is in the center of the new line on the underside and hammer the blocked metal into the line.
Easier than it sounds, but I don't know if you want to get into all that or want to buy the tools needed. Thought I would post it anyways, maybe someone else will find it useful. This is an abridged version I left out a few details.



If I can think of an easier way I'll post.

 

[Schroeder]

I don't think I'd want to cut that quarter like that. I'd do whatever I had to, to avoid that.

If I was doing it, I'd want to verify where that line is compared to the front fender first like MJM said. Then I would de-skin the door. I just don't see any easy way to do it so de-skin the door. I would mark out the new line with string or a yardstick. Then tap lightly with something in portions across the line to mark it so you could see it on the backside and use a marker on the backside to show the center of the line. I use a small blocking hammer and a mallet, other things would work like a blunt pointed chisel. Then using a blocking hammer like this:

I would block on the back side of the skin into a sandbag the new "line". Once I did that I would then use a hammer and dolly to create the line in the correct location.
View attachment 32379
Using the dolly pictured you would hold the pointed end where my finger is in the center of the new line on the underside and hammer the blocked metal into the line.
Easier than it sounds, but I don't know if you want to get into all that or want to buy the tools needed. Thought I would post it anyways, maybe someone else will find it useful. This is an abridged version I left out a few details.



If I can think of an easier way I'll post.

Thanks. It's already been destined once. This is the 2nd one. I have the door handle deleted. The inside is sound proofed and primed. The front is lined up and planar with the fender. The bottom is gapped. The top rear corner has been shaped and made to have a custom point. The rear edge is gapped. Too much work has gone into this 2nd skin. I think a year ago when I stopped working on the car I thought I'd just get it right with filler. Getting back in it now my head is in a different place. While your solution is the best and is correct, I can't bring myself to re-skin the door a 3rd time when I've got so much custom work in it- some of it for the 2nd time.

 

[Schroeder]

Also, do you have access on the backside of the panel to dress the welds?

I wouldn't be concerned about dressing the weld on the back side of the door jamb. You won't see any ghosting if it does occur.

I'll TIG it so the weld line is very minimally thicker than the surrounding metal. Also, I can get to *most* of the back side through the door jam vent to dress the welds down some.

 

[Schroeder]

I see AMD has the skins in stock now. They don't charge $5000 for oversized shipping like classic industries does. I could pick a new skin up for $120. I'll need to add 7/16 - 1/2" to the bottoms of the door and skin if I go that route. The gap between the bottom of the door and the rocker is already 5/16" or more and the last one was the same.

 

[Schroeder]

I've done some more investigation. I made sure the car was level and shot a laser down the side. I think the quarter body line angles up AND the door skin body line dives down towards the rear. This is noticeable on the PS too but too a MUCH lesser extent where I was able to add a little TIG rod at the door/quarter interface to line the body line up. It worked well. This side is too much. I think I need to move the quarter body line down. It'll be easier and cheaper. I do think this could've been solved of I made the door skin body line for the fender and quarter body line. Id have had to add a ton of metal at the bottom of the door skin to have a proper gap with the rocker in this scenario. Expand the thumbnail to see the notes on the quarter and the method in which I checked for the linearity of the body lines from panel to panel.

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[shine]

leave the door alone. the qrt is the problem. fix it.

 

[Schroeder]

I did it guys! I just cut the body line out! I'm a hack and fab hillbilly I know! I think this is going to work though. I have this held on with a magnet on the inside of the quarter right now. I sighted forward and backwards down the car with this mock up, and it looks like it's gonna be just fine. I'm not even going to try sharing that in a pic though. Ill share photos once done. It'll probably be a couple weeks until I have time to get at this again though. Thanks for the insight and different options.

 

[HO455]

Just wondering how it turned out? I've got my own 2 gen mess to straighten out.