1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration Thread
- Thread starter MJM
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MJM
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Sorry about the private thing, I think I have it fixed. As far as the adapter not threading all the way down, it does. I just didn't tighten it for that photo. I left if loose so it would stand out. I checked the arbor shaft the holesaw mounts on and it had .010 of runout. JD2 is a nice tool. It's spoken of highly from my readings.
Let me know if the videos still won't play. You may have to pay me a watchers fee of $20.00 dollars to see them
Let me know if the videos still won't play. You may have to pay me a watchers fee of $20.00 dollars to see them
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Worn Out Welder
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I’m certainly no machinist, but I was thinking a carbide tipped hole saw might be worth a look.
I have used them with more favorable results than the carbon steel version.
It obviously requires the ability to adapt to your setup.
I have used them with more favorable results than the carbon steel version.
It obviously requires the ability to adapt to your setup.
MJM
Promoted Users
Absolutely....................... I'm suing 1-3/4" DOM tubing and unfortunately, it doesn't appear that Lenox makes a 1-3/4" O.D. carbide tipped holesaw.
Worn Out Welder
Promoted Users
I’m sure someone has 1-3/4” but the arbor might be the challenge.
www.acehardware.com
Milwaukee Hole Dozer 1-3/4 in. Carbide Tipped Hole Saw 1 pc - Ace Hardware
The MILWAUKEE HOLE DOZER with Carbide Teeth is the best hole saw blade solution for metal and multi-material applications. The blades provide 5X life in extreme multi-material cutting compared to other bi-metal hole competitors. The carbide-grade build is combined with 4TPI design, yielding the...
www.acehardware.com
MJM
Promoted Users
I’m sure someone has 1-3/4” but the arbor might be the challenge.
Milwaukee Hole Dozer 1-3/4 in. Carbide Tipped Hole Saw 1 pc - Ace Hardware
The MILWAUKEE HOLE DOZER with Carbide Teeth is the best hole saw blade solution for metal and multi-material applications. The blades provide 5X life in extreme multi-material cutting compared to other bi-metal hole competitors. The carbide-grade build is combined with 4TPI design, yielding the...
Thank you, that will work. Most holesaw manufactures use a standard size reducer adapter, 1/2"-20 x 5/8"-18. The reducer adapter I purchased from Amazon was package for use with a Milwaukee holesaw.
I don't think you are going to have good luck with a 4 tpi carbide hole saw in a notcher set to cut or notch an acute angle. Perhaps not enough teeth engagement to cut accurately on such a guided cut at an angle to the work. Something tells me you need more teeth in the cut than fewer with either bimetal or carbide. But try one and find out. Hole saws really need a pilot to help pull and guide them--try one in your drill press attempting to do a straight hole where all the teeth are engaged--no 1/4" pilot not the best choice. You can see the wobble well at even low speeds. Notcher's suffer from what you are showing here by using a hole saw as a machine cutter in another application from what it is designed for. I don't know of anyone using them--I use a pipemaster layout transfer one with pins or the Zaktamark one with plastic fingers to make the pattern on the pipe or tube set in position and marked with a soap stone. Then it can be removed and burn them to the profile. if you don't have a oxy-acetylene set up--I have used a sawsall to rough the profile and finish with a grinder. I never spend more than 15 minutes doing one this way on 2 NPS or 10NPS that I am saddling.
MJM
Promoted Users
Valid points.
From what I have read, and Youtube videos, most roll cages notchers use a holesaw bit. The guys who build roll cages for a living use a mill type machine with an annular cutter for notching..
I'm researching "rotabroach cutters" 1-3/4" bit. I just don't know if they make, or can be adapted, to be used on a tube notcher like I have.
Annular bits.....
https://hougen.com/cutters/rotabroach-advantage.html
Worn Out Welder
Promoted Users
I did a lot of coping of thin wall in aircraft, but that’s easy when you have a nibbler that is 4’ tall and a 6” throat. I made my own punches and mandrel.
The heavier material was done on a hogging mill with the appropriate shell mill.
Home shop is more of a challenge and I agree with DAT on the 4 TPI , but it’s just what is available. Carbides really need to be held firmly and the speed and feed can affect their longevity.
I do the Neanderthal method at home.
Rough with a Metabo cutoff wheel, and finish with a large Dotco or Chicago pneumatic industrial air grinder, with a 3/4-1” diamond carbide burr.
Stay away from straight cut burrs….they make needle type chips.
I’m slow but it works for the worn out welder.
The heavier material was done on a hogging mill with the appropriate shell mill.
Home shop is more of a challenge and I agree with DAT on the 4 TPI , but it’s just what is available. Carbides really need to be held firmly and the speed and feed can affect their longevity.
I do the Neanderthal method at home.
Rough with a Metabo cutoff wheel, and finish with a large Dotco or Chicago pneumatic industrial air grinder, with a 3/4-1” diamond carbide burr.
Stay away from straight cut burrs….they make needle type chips.
I’m slow but it works for the worn out welder.
I use Rotobroaches to 3 1/4". I have a 1 3/4" one it is XL200 1 3/4". they work good in a radial arm drill press or mag base drill but their down fall is they shatter with not a whole lot of lateral loading. Attempting to use them other than perpendicular might be an expensive experiment. It did not work for me taking the head off a Bridgeport mill and attempting to drill holes on the inside of a cylinder for a boiler drum with that head attached to a homemade supporting device. The 3 1/4" one I used doing some drilling in 1 1/4" carbon steel plate straight through--was blowing one up about every 7 hours at about a grand a piece. One they dull--more downward pressure is the downfall for shattering.
BLU-MOL brand hole saws are what brand I use now and have better life and cutting with them--you might give them a try. I found I have one of these 1 3/4" ones marked Bimetal and 45mm. It has about 8tpi. No part number on it.
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MJM
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You speak from first hand experience. Your experience is backed up by others first hand experience that I read about when using a rotabroach in the fashion i was going to try and use it. I will use a holesaw like others use and have been using for a long time with good results. Thank you for the BLU-MOL recommendation. Found them on Amazon. The Extreme BLU-Mol's are priced very well and had outstanding reviews. Going to give them a try. I did make my first coping cut with the bit I bought at lowes. For the first cut, it cut well. It took about 30 seconds to notch a 90 degree cut. Fitment was excellent.
https://www.amazon.com/Disston-E021...3/4+inch+blu+mol+hole+saw,aps,136&sr=8-5&th=1
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MJM
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Making a paper pattern to be used for marking a straight line the length of a tube is useful information. Definitely need that for clocking purposes. Machine cutting notches is going to be the most accurate way imho vs hand notching. Notching accuracy is kind of critical for a roll cage. After the Barracuda is completed, I'll be starting on the 1968 Dodge Dart. That's going to be a full 12 point cage. Lots of tubes to notch so using a tube notcher will be easier than hand notching, imho. I purchased a tube notcher now so I could work the bugs out of it and fine tune it if needed, which mine did.
The expensive tool is going to be the tube bender. I can't believe how much vendors are asking for the them, well into the thousands, and that's for a manual hand operated bender. I'm currently looking at a Vevor tube bender because it comes with three radius dies for $600 dollars. I'll upgrade the Vevor bender with a Swag hydraulic kit so no manual hand bending. This should keep the cost just under $1,000.
My only other option for the 68 Dart is to purchase a prefabbed cage, they're around $800-$1,000 for a 12 point cage. I just don't know how well they fit, so I'm at the mercy of their fabrication design.
Worn Out Welder
Promoted Users
There is another option…..but it’s primitive.
I did some stuff for a guy with a 56 truck that’s one off…nothing manufactured.
I’m sure you are familiar with packing a tube with sand to prevent it from collapsing when bending.
It takes a little to make the radius die …but the die , a rosebud, and a welder is all that’s required.
I’d really enjoy access to a mandrel type bending machine, but it’s a lot to invest for so little use in my low budget world.
MJM
Promoted Users
Today I notched a 30 degree cut to check the accuracy of the angle gauge on the tube notcher base plate. After cutting the notch I checked it with a protractor. Tube notcher angle gauge is dead on.
Next up is to practice tig welding the joints. Wish me luck, lol
30 degree notch
Notched 90 & 30 degrees.
Next up is to practice tig welding the joints. Wish me luck, lol
30 degree notch
Notched 90 & 30 degrees.
MJM
Promoted Users
Good call, I forgot about using sand. I watched a couple of videos of guys using Harbor Freights pipe bender. They packed the DOM tubing with sand and made the bends. My hats off to them, they made it work.
Worn Out Welder
Promoted Users
Welding…..it’s like dancing with your sister.
Looks like something is going on….but there’s nothing to it
Looks like something is going on….but there’s nothing to it
MJM
Promoted Users
Man what I would do to sit down with someone like yourself for three or four hours, who knows how to weld, especially tig welding. It's apparent to me that self teaching tig welding takes a long time to learn. I think it comes down to not being able to see what I'm doing wrong. I'm sure it's a combination of bad procedures such as, angle to work piece, to far from work piece, moving to fast or to slow. Also things like sharpening tungsten to CFH flow.
All I can do is keep trying, swearing, and throwing work pieces across the garage
Worn Out Welder
Promoted Users
Yes! I would thoroughly enjoy sitting by !
I could watch you work for hours…I’d even bring the beer.
If you ever gas welded with Ox/Act ….its very similar, but with much more focus and control.
I had to overcome many myths and self doubt until I met the Wizard.
Tungsten must be ground radially….not true!
It’s all about the grit of the abrasive. The grit should be fine enough to sharpen a knife.
Ive sharpened many pounds on a belt sander with a cordless drill. ( Cautionary consideration..red band tungsten is radioactive thorium doped , but has the best arc start characteristics)
Like all things particulate…don’t breath the dust.
Green is cheapest….and I hate it because it must be very close to light off.
Lanthinated seems to be the choice now days because of the low toxicity.
Rule of thumb for amperage 1amp per 0.001 thickness of material, but mass and material type play a roll.
Bead width is generally acceptable to be 1.5 times the material thickness or wall dimension…with a flat throat. Slightly concave is preferable to convex.
My apologies for my over the top comments.
It was with the best intentions.
I could watch you work for hours…I’d even bring the beer.
If you ever gas welded with Ox/Act ….its very similar, but with much more focus and control.
I had to overcome many myths and self doubt until I met the Wizard.
Tungsten must be ground radially….not true!
It’s all about the grit of the abrasive. The grit should be fine enough to sharpen a knife.
Ive sharpened many pounds on a belt sander with a cordless drill. ( Cautionary consideration..red band tungsten is radioactive thorium doped , but has the best arc start characteristics)
Like all things particulate…don’t breath the dust.
Green is cheapest….and I hate it because it must be very close to light off.
Lanthinated seems to be the choice now days because of the low toxicity.
Rule of thumb for amperage 1amp per 0.001 thickness of material, but mass and material type play a roll.
Bead width is generally acceptable to be 1.5 times the material thickness or wall dimension…with a flat throat. Slightly concave is preferable to convex.
My apologies for my over the top comments.
It was with the best intentions.
metalman
Oldtimer
Last week I had to add 2 cross tubes on the bottom of 5 aluminum chairs. The chair frames were 7/8” OD apx. .060” wall and the added tubes supplied were 3/4” OD .050” wall. Cope cuts made with the JD2 and hole saw.
You have to drill vent holes so you don’t have any trapped air spaces. The sand blasting usually results in some pepper in the weld.
You have to drill vent holes so you don’t have any trapped air spaces. The sand blasting usually results in some pepper in the weld.
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