1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration Thread

MJM

Promoted Users
Thought I would start a thread for my restoration. It will consist primarily of body work (dent removal ) and interior and exterior paint. The car will be taken down to bare sheet metal. I will use this thread to ask all my questions in, so I hope those with helping advice will check in.

Here's the car I'm working with. I've owned it for 37 years and it's time for new paint.

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Over the past year I've been collecting tools for the job. Air compressor, body hammers, stud welding gun, sanding blocks, air sanders and spray guns.
Just this last month I've started pulling dents.
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Now on too my first of many questions. I've started stripping the paint off of the interior side of my trunk lid. I've finished sanded for SPI Epoxy primer with 80 grit scratches.

My question is, what grit is a Maroon Rolac sanding disc?, and can this be used for the tight spots. It's my understand that Maroon rolacs are medium grit, but that doesn't tell me much if it will be acceptable to lay SPI epoxy on,
Thank you,

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My helper loves those things. I buy the brown coarse ones. Most of the time a 3" da with an 80# disc will get to the same area, or you could hand sand a little with 180# after the roloc.
 
Thanks Tex, I like those colored conditioning disk because of how long they last, very durable. Doing some more research on the grit of the colored disks, I found on Harbor Freight website that the brown = 60 grit, maroon = 100 grit and green = 180 grit. I used 80 grit 2" disk in all the tight spots but, they wear out very fast. Guess that's just the nature of the beast. I guess I'll just get the paint off with the maroon disc, then go over it with a 2" 80 disc. That will save some 80 grit disks.

This is what I've been using to get in those tight creases from the factory die press.
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Ride on, thank you brother !!!

Are you epoxy spraying over the course conditioning disks? Is the course conditioning disk scratches to course for the 2 coats of epoxy primer?
 
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They are not too coarse to strip the paint. They don't really leave the "correct" scratch for maximum adhesion, imo. It is more of a coarse "polished" finish. An 80# da scratch is not the same as an 80# scratch from a grinder or a hand sanding scratch. Barry specifies an 80# da scratch or a 180# hand sanding scratch on bare metal. Those 2 finishes fill easily with 2 coats of epoxy.
 
They are not too coarse to strip the paint. They don't really leave the "correct" scratch for maximum adhesion, imo. It is more of a coarse "polished" finish. An 80# da scratch is not the same as an 80# scratch from a grinder or a hand sanding scratch. Barry specifies an 80# da scratch or a 180# hand sanding scratch on bare metal. Those 2 finishes fill easily with 2 coats of epoxy.
Wow, I'm glad I asked. I see I was way off base with my terminology of 80 grit and how it is used. Let me go look for a 3" da as you suggested above. Thanks again, I was headed in the wrong direction of making a big mistake.
 
Make sure to put 80 sandpaper scratches in whatever you do with the brown discs. I've polished smooth the rough edges of metal that has been cut with those brown discs.
elwood, I will do that. Right now I'm trying to find a 3"da sander. Not having much luck. Seems everything I'm looking at says orbital sander.
 
These are really nice. I've had a BluePoint pistol grip for over 15 years that has been great, also. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pr...action-sanding-polishing-kit-3050/air-sanders It is more like this.
 
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Thanks again, tex.....I placed an on-line order today for the 3" 3M random orbital 3/16 orbit palm sander. Went by my local auto paint supplier in town to see if they had any sanders before ordering on-line, which they did not. Asked if they carried any 3M Premium body filler, which they did not. Actually got a dirty look from the owner when he rudely said, I don't carry 3M products. Too damn expensive.
 
I would have to agree that most stuff 3M is too damn expensive, but some of their stuff is competitive, and almost everything but compound is good quality. Those sanders are very smooth and light. Makes a difference with a lot of use.
 
I would have to agree that most stuff 3M is too damn expensive, but some of their stuff is competitive, and almost everything but compound is good quality. Those sanders are very smooth and light. Makes a difference with a lot of use.

What are you referring too when you say "compound"? Are you referring to body filler?
 
^^^ Well I'm glad I got that stupid question out of the way. No need to laugh, I'm laughing at myself as I smack myself upside my head.
 
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