1969 Mustang Mach 1

Great work! car looks incrediable , love color , definetly my favorite year mustang . Joe
 
suspension work! man this stuff was a wreck....spray bomb rustoleum over bare metal on everything. rust pits every where.

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again...not factory correct, but nice and clean.
 
What are you using for the silver look?
Also is the black straight epoxy primer?

I have been using the black epoxy for undercarriage and suspension parts but cannot find a decent silver that holds up without scratching easy.
 
shine...everyone knows you can paint your whole car in rustoleum!! lol.

silvers and grays...seymour cast blast (high temp) for the gray and stainless steel for the natural steel silver look. unless you make your own...its hard to match a natrual bright steel but this stuff comes pretty close and is pretty durable. i use sikkens mat clear over everything for extra insurance.

and the black is sikkens rally black. whats on the control arms is right ouf of the can but with some matting agent you can dull it down to whatever you want. on the camaro i used just epoxy because the owner had alot of stuff powder coated black and a cpl coats of unreduced epoxy matches perfect for little odds and ends stuff. i just like the look of the rally black and haven't found anything else like it really...even playing around with the epoxy it comes pretty close.
 
That is going to be a top notch restoration. I don't know of any shops around here that would take the time to do outstanding work like that.

Is that just back epoxy on the suspension?
 
thanks fellas! this is really going to be a nice car..cant wait to start getting it together.

this is whats going under the hood.
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will be getting a complete make-over also. customer has had it dyno'd at 650hp.
 
strum456;6927 said:
That is going to be a top notch restoration. I don't know of any shops around here that would take the time to do outstanding work like that.

Is that just back epoxy on the suspension?
Click to expand...

black is sikkens rally black.
 
ok, so after much consideration and a lot of talking with customer we have decided to re-clear. This is just one of those projects that really snowballed. This was never the game plan when the car entered the shop....but he really doesn't want to shortcut things since we've come this far.

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4 coats of universal. Last time was 3 coats then cut flat with 800 and finished out then buffed. Wasted time, but end result will definately be much better.
 
I remember reading some clown on hotrodders questioning the usefulness of re-clearing. He obviously has never tried it...

Looks super nice!
 
thanks. Just looking at it outside, it just looks totally different and i havent touched it with a piece of sandpaper yet.

I really do wonder why i dont do it more often.
 
I am no pro by any means but I did my R/T with 7 coats of clear - 4 coats, block sand flat and 3 more coats, cut and buff. The Buick I just finished was 3 coats of clear cut and buff. The difference is very obvious with the R/T having a depth to it that the Buick doesn't have. I plan on flow coating any restorations I do in the future just to set them apart a little more in the looks department.

Plus for a hack like myself the cut and buff was much easier as well. LOL
 
I agree, the second round of clear cures out so much better with less solvent having to flow through and out of it-clarity is much better than trying to pile on a lot of coats in the first session. JMO. I've usually done 3+3 or 3+2 coats but lately been thinking 2+4 might give the best results and the reasoning is 2 coats is plenty of material to cut flat and stiill leave a good layer over the base plus 4 coats on the second stage allows plenty of room to cut and buff to perfection without worry and also leaves a good amount of material for depth.
 
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