1966 Valiant for the Other Daughter....

Did not take any inprocess photos incase it did not work... no evidence. Since it is working great I will fully document what I did for the other part of the dash pad.... A little glaze to fill a few bubble holes and a straightedge and a bit of sanding to get the "U" indentations at the front edge back in the pad and it will be ready for the vinyl....

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Hhhmm a two part poly foam, interesting. Curious how it's applied, and what grit sand paper to use for shaping an refining?
 
Jim, How much of that pad did you create? And how rigid is it when you're all finished? I got couple dash pads I could use it on. I'll be following along.
Edit; just went back in the photo's and see the original pad, and have an idea what's new
 
DanMcG said:
Jim, How much of that pad did you create? And how rigid is it when you're all finished? I got couple dash pads I could use it on. I'll be following along.
Edit; just went back in the photo's and see the original pad, and have an idea what's new
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light is new so it only fills holes and voids. Overall it is as squishy as the original dark colored foam.
 
Haven't been booted yet, but the snake oil propaganda continues. Lets see if this gets me thrown out... :p


With epoxy primer being the best substrate going today (over properly prepped metal) I normally suggest to anyone getting ready to go down the paint rabbit hole to first and foremost lay out your paint plan. What primer, what base/urethane, etc. Are all these components compatible?

Next, once you've narrowed down the paint products, check with the paint manufacturer and ONLY the paint manufacturer to see if there are any compatibility issues with any of the rust treatments or blasting media you plan on using. Most epoxy primers do not play nice with any soda blast residue, this residue will affect adhesion where the primer will peel right off. Many epoxy primers do not play nice with the rust conversion coatings, any residue you do not get removed from those deep pits will start to activate once you sit in the sun with your new paint job (think car shows) where the primer will begin to delaminate directly over this residue as it is now outgassing from the chemical reaction. That is why you must get this compatibility info from the paint manufacturer. The likes of POR, Ospho, etc have any disclaimer of compatibility well hidden on their web sites (works with all paints!!! ) and such a strong sales game that it's touted as the best thing since sliced bread. The typical online car forum is full of the same proponents because, lets face it, we as humans are lazy. So anything that makes things easy, where we don't need to cut out rust (ever seen the POR screen repair for damaged panels?) has our full attention. Unfortunately, these type of sales gimmicks promote one to be lazy and take shortcuts, where now the product may fail or not last as promised by the hype, with your expensive paint products over top of something that is failing...

I have seen far too much failure with guys jumping in with both feet based on info on a car forum from someone who found a product "easy". ANY rust repair is going to be cheaper to fix before the paint goes on. Make sure you have your research done on all the paint supplies, from start to finish. Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions over those from any of the rust conversion coating companies. When the paint comes off because you used a conversion product not compatible with the paint, the warranty has been voided and you have just spent a lot of money for nothing, because someone told you this was easier.. I am not trying to push one product over another, or dissuade someone from using one over another. But far too many times I've seen only one side of a story becomes a waste of paint materials. Do your research.. Do your research... Do your research....
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Make a cheap dam around the edges out of tape. This one was too cheap and I had a lot of leaks.... You only have about 60 seconds to mix, pour and spread. Mix up the A/B product and only stir for 10-20 seconds. Next pour it in the cracks and the missing pieces then pour it all over the pad. I spread it with a filler spreader. The second it starts to kick and expand (i.e. bubbles start to form) you have just a few seconds to do any final finishing then get away from it and let it kick. It will be hard in about 30 minutes. Now be very very careful sanding it. The 50 grit on the rotary will take it down to the original foam in seconds. Only go down so you can see the old foam color through the new foam. Now get out your sanding blocks with 50 and start blocking it down. There will be a few voids here and there that I plan on just using glazing filler in them and sand them down later. Now flip it over and do the same thing on the under side of the front roll. I will do that tomorrow.

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Should I tell Robert a guy on the FactBook (or is it FaceBook) could not understand why I would cut it there and should have cut it down further on the flat spot. When I gave him the reason Robert had me do it there he said that was crazy and he had replaced 2 dozen mopar quarter panels. I had better not, I don't want to get kicked off the mopar page myself..... :)
 
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