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1947 Biederman Truck Fender Repairs

#41
Progress through today, TIG welding up the hinges onto the new hoods..











Some SPI epoxy is mixed and brushed on, allowing it to seep between the welded parts and seal things up..











As the dominoes continued falling, the hood sides did not fit either. It was our initial plan to cut off the hinge from the top, wire edge from the bottom, and add a new center section, all parts cut to fit properly and welded back together. When we stripped paint off the lower wire edged part, we saw a bit too much pitting, rust, etc. that we opted to change to a full new lower section under the hinge. Nothing to wire edging 16 gauge, right?







So we whipped up a set of dies to add the joggle needed for the external wiring, using 3/16 solid rod for the wiring..







Practice sample:











With that complete, we tipped the lower edge to run through the joggle die..






The wiring and inside of the joggle were both degreased, scuffed, and SPI epoxy added prior to folding the remainder..







Vise grips modified so they wouldn't slip off the wiring..







Wiring locked in place with some hammer action...







Hood side is tacked to the hinge, mocked to the hood, and trimmed for gaps







It's not done, but that's all for today, we're packing it up for the car show in Leonardtown tomorrow.



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#42
Tonight we did the wired edge on the Biederman truck's drivers hood side, so we did a couple videos of the process. We did a practice sample to make sure our adjustment on the folded flange length gave us a good wrap with a slight gap for paint..








This shows the basic process of closing the wrap, wasn't as pretty as it should have been, but hey, this is practice.









For the hood side, we used the tipping wheel in the Fasti swaging machine (bead roller) to add the flange. After running through the Lennox for adding the joggle, the panel was scrubbed with a warm dish soap and water mix using scotchbrite, then scuffed with 220 paper, then SPI epoxy added in the channel. After our 3/16 wire was laid in place, any remaining bare spots on the wire were also brushed with epoxy. The entire length was then closed as per the practice sample. We'll let that set a day or so and get the recycled hinge welded to the top.








 
#43
Finishing up on the Biederman hood fabrications today.. That's what I told myself anyhow...



Getting the OEM hood hinge welded to the new hood side..







Factory version had spot welded angles on the inside to bolt side emblems to, we'll see if we can improve by eliminating a rust trap...







This should do..... Vise mounted jigsaw with optional pony clamp cruise control Don't try this at home..























Beltline trim added.....Hey! it lines up with the cab!







Hood sides added.. and Robert is done with the hood..











Video Version:






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#48
An update on the Biederman truck, John came across a donor truck with an authentic 1947 Galion dump body, which matches his 47 Biederman perfectly.





It needed some repair work on it but it was a good one to start with. He took it to a local shop and had the tailgate rebuilt, added a cab guard and replaced the floor. It will show a few authentic dents when finished but he says he prefers that to a new edition body on an old truck.











These next pictures really show why we need to add the skirt between the cab and running board.








The skirt will rest on top of the running board flange, with a rubber edge trim to save some paint rubbing. Here's our sample bend that will rest on top of the flange. (it's shown upside-down...)





The dump body and other remaining parts will be also be painted blue, he plans to paint this spring.
 
#49
Been tripping over the 8’ linear slide on the Lennox for the past couple months, time to knock out these Biederman skirts so we can break the linear slide down. This will likely be the last Metalshaping done on this machine before it goes out the door and the replacement comes in.





These two bends were done in the magnetic brake, the final fold for the U-shape is done in the Lennox using these dies..








Comparison





Here's the folding process...









Next we took them to a local machine shop, Triton Defense, to hem the U-shape. They used a knife blade in the press brake.





The only thing left for these is to fold the top flange for bolting to the underside of the cab, fit, and paint.
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
#51
This is one of those projects where the little affordable 12" width / 20 gauge capacity tools would be worthless as:::::::::: well you know.:p
Sometimes even the best of us need a little outside help ONLY because of lack having a monster expensive piece of equipment that few large shops can afford. A little occasional help like this really takes absolutely nothing away from how handmade a project is by the shop doing it.
 
#55
Exactly! The original version was two separate pieces that included about three dirt/moisture traps, so needless to say they are a pile of rust. With this we attempted to limit to one fabrication, one dirt trap, and it will be abraded, flooded with epoxy, and likely followed up with seam sealer sloped downward toward the ends. The biggest improvement over original is no "catch" on the outside, where rain comes into play. So the cab should shield most moisture from getting in there at all. If he ever takes it out in the rain again.... ;)



IMG_3294_Moment.jpg
 
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#57
Well after about 12 years, the Lennox TE150 is leaving the building. When we did the 35 Chevy louvers for Cody Walls, it hinted then of it's limitations. Simply put, not enough throat capacity with some of the automotive panels.


I bought this from Northwest Airlines and picked it up from their then recently closed DC-9 maintenance facility at the Hartsfield Atlanta airport. They had shut down the operation and moved maintenance overseas. This and a 100 ton drop press was the last that remained in an otherwise vacant building.


I've found another metalshaper that has a larger machine, but doesn't really use it for the capacity. So after negotiating the terms, he will be using this for the (mainly) motorcycle fabrications, where I will have more capacity for larger automotive panels.















Good thing I got a tilt bed trailer last year, it came in handy.. As well as borrowing some piano moving jacks..


With rain in the forecast for Friday, we loaded up the TE150 Thursday night and left it inside. All ready for the 2+ hour drive to it's new home on Saturday..





With our "trade-in" situated next to the newsed machine, you get a hint to the comparison in size. What you don't see is what is used on the inside. The TE150 uses 1/2" thick steel plate on the sides, the TE250 uses 1-1/4" thick steel plate. Quite a difference, and easily noticed when moving..








Winch helps with the uphill movement..





We made another stop and also picked up a small spinning lathe, a Model 18 DuaLathe, and a larger 3 phase converter. The motor size on the Lennox jumps from 1.5 hp to 5hp on the new one, and my present converter is a bit undersized for the occasion. All backed in the shop for the unloading ceremonies..









Some square pads were cut out of horse mat for mounting, and 3/4" anchors sunk into the concrete..





….and let's not forget the requisite safety warning label..






Still need to wire in the three phase converter, but glad all the moving is complete.
 
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#58
John stopped by the shop last night so we could fit up the running board skirts on the Biederman.



I know he will be glad to close off this gaping hole.



After taking some measurements we got the top flange folded over using the magnetic brake. The flange will be bolted to the underside of the cab to support the weight as we will leave about a 1/4" or so gap above the running board to allow for frame flex.







Rivet Nuts installed under the cab...





The rubber edge trim is our attempt to keep the paint from rubbing off, and these are held in place using weatherstrip adhesive.



The dump bed had been painted over when John bought it, but closer inspection showed where some additional layers of paint in the hand painted lettering, "Phone 60" had staved off surface rust in it's previous life and was still visible...

 
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