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1947 Biederman Truck Fender Repairs

Progress through today, TIG welding up the hinges onto the new hoods..

Some SPI epoxy is mixed and brushed on, allowing it to seep between the welded parts and seal things up..

As the dominoes continued falling, the hood sides did not fit either. It was our initial plan to cut off the hinge from the top, wire edge from the bottom, and add a new center section, all parts cut to fit properly and welded back together. When we stripped paint off the lower wire edged part, we saw a bit too much pitting, rust, etc. that we opted to change to a full new lower section under the hinge. Nothing to wire edging 16 gauge, right?

So we whipped up a set of dies to add the joggle needed for the external wiring, using 3/16 solid rod for the wiring..

Practice sample:

With that complete, we tipped the lower edge to run through the joggle die..

The wiring and inside of the joggle were both degreased, scuffed, and SPI epoxy added prior to folding the remainder..

Vise grips modified so they wouldn't slip off the wiring..

Wiring locked in place with some hammer action...

Hood side is tacked to the hinge, mocked to the hood, and trimmed for gaps

It's not done, but that's all for today, we're packing it up for the car show in Leonardtown tomorrow.

Tonight we did the wired edge on the Biederman truck's drivers hood side, so we did a couple videos of the process. We did a practice sample to make sure our adjustment on the folded flange length gave us a good wrap with a slight gap for paint..

This shows the basic process of closing the wrap, wasn't as pretty as it should have been, but hey, this is practice.

For the hood side, we used the tipping wheel in the Fasti swaging machine (bead roller) to add the flange. After running through the Lennox for adding the joggle, the panel was scrubbed with a warm dish soap and water mix using scotchbrite, then scuffed with 220 paper, then SPI epoxy added in the channel. After our 3/16 wire was laid in place, any remaining bare spots on the wire were also brushed with epoxy. The entire length was then closed as per the practice sample. We'll let that set a day or so and get the recycled hinge welded to the top.

Finishing up on the Biederman hood fabrications today.. That's what I told myself anyhow...

Getting the OEM hood hinge welded to the new hood side..

Factory version had spot welded angles on the inside to bolt side emblems to, we'll see if we can improve by eliminating a rust trap...

This should do..... Vise mounted jigsaw with optional pony clamp cruise control Don't try this at home..

Beltline trim added.....Hey! it lines up with the cab!

Hood sides added.. and Robert is done with the hood..

Video Version:

An update on the Biederman truck, John came across a donor truck with an authentic 1947 Galion dump body, which matches his 47 Biederman perfectly.

It needed some repair work on it but it was a good one to start with. He took it to a local shop and had the tailgate rebuilt, added a cab guard and replaced the floor. It will show a few authentic dents when finished but he says he prefers that to a new edition body on an old truck.

These next pictures really show why we need to add the skirt between the cab and running board.

The skirt will rest on top of the running board flange, with a rubber edge trim to save some paint rubbing. Here's our sample bend that will rest on top of the flange. (it's shown upside-down...)

The dump body and other remaining parts will be also be painted blue, he plans to paint this spring.