1940 Ford Coupe

K

keith

Member
This is a car I am building for myself as I make time. I got the car from a customer that has became a close friend. He owned the car from 1966 till I got it not long ago. The car was converted from a flat head to a small block chevy in 1958 with a adapter plate. He drove it till 1969 and parked in a dirt floor garage for about 25 years before he moved in the mid 90's. The dirt floor really took it's toll on it.The engine and front clip were removed before I got it. The firewall had 72 unwanted holes that needed filled. If you look at the right front windshield there is a 1968 Sedalia,Mo. City sticker.Nov 2008.

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I make 95% of my panels, 2 reasons: 1 most bought ones don't fit without some work I might as well build them. 2 I've been called a tight ass. Guilty.

Pictures of the floor, rear floor,trunk floor and tool box. The only part I saved from the car was the drive shaft tunnel and the master cylinder inspection hole.

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I make 95% of my panels, 2 reasons: 1 most bought ones don't fit without some work I might as well build them. 2 I've been called a tight ass. Guilty.

Pictures of the floor, rear floor,trunk floor and tool box. The only part I saved from the car was the drive shaft tunnel and the master cylinder inspection hole.

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[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;3010]Can I ask what type of metal working tools you have to accomplish that? Impressive for sure.[/QUOTE]

I am also curious on how you pressed the impressions.

Nice workmanship there.
 
One of my favorite cars, BUT the Chebby engine got to go. LOL.

What a great job on the floor pans, wish I could do that type of work.
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;3010]Can I ask what type of metal working tools you have to accomplish that? Impressive for sure.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the kind words.

Bead roller, sheet metal brake for the pans. The tool box and rearend bulge were done using a e-wheel and shrinker stretcher.
 
Barryk;3017 said:
One of my favorite cars, BUT the Chebby engine got to go. LOL.

What a great job on the floor pans, wish I could do that type of work.
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Barry,

Thank you for your attaboy.

I have been a true blue oval person my whole life. '40's are my favorite and '36's not far behind. The deal I made was the car would have to be put back the way it was. I couldn't go any other route at this time. Not to say it won't be changed at a later date. But for now this is what will be done.

I do have pictures to post of the building process and you know it's all SPI. Sure would have like to have been able to have purchased your black before you quit selling it. '40's Coupe's only look good in black. I also own a '40 Standard 2 dr Sedan factory black waiting on me and a '40 Merc 4 dr Conv that will be black.
 
keith;3018 said:
Thanks for the kind words.

Bead roller, sheet metal brake for the pans. The tool box and rearend bulge were done using a e-wheel and shrinker stretcher.
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Thanks. I have been considering purchasing some metal working tools but I'll have to do it one at a time. Any suggestions on what to get first?
 
Hi keith,

Do you have an idea of how many hours it takes to do that kind of fab? I have been thinking about adding this kind of capability, but would not know how to present it to prospective customers. It would all be time + material of course, but most people like to have an expectation of a round dollar amount.
 
That's a tough question.Depends on what you are wanting to do. I'm a serious hobbyist. I have full time job in a aluminum wire factory so I've collected these tools over a 20 year span. I would recommend a shrinker stretcher and a small brake. A bead roller with a 24-36 inch throat can do most floor and trunks. A bench top e-wheel is going to help you with patch panels.

This is the first tool you should really buy is a super DVD by David Gardiner titled "Bodywork Restoration Tutorial" he has some youtube stuff too.

Hope this helps. Got any more questions I'll try to help you.
 
The left cowl had damage from where the door swung around and dented it. Worked all of it out. The right cowl had 3 antenna holes welded them up and i used a small amount of lead for filler. The roof had the factory antenna hole in it and welded and filled it with lead. Everything gets SPI epoxy and then Turbo Primer.

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'68 Coronet R/T,

Keith may know someone from metal meet that lives near you, where you could maybe visit and check out the tools needed.

Also there are regional metal meets held and Keith may also know of one close to you, seems to me Keith holds one in MO but I could be wrong.

The metal meet guys are a different breed, they will bend over back-wards to help someone that wants to learn.
 
crashtech;3024 said:
Hi keith,

Do you have an idea of how many hours it takes to do that kind of fab? I have been thinking about adding this kind of capability, but would not know how to present it to prospective customers. It would all be time + material of course, but most people like to have an expectation of a round dollar amount.
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Well....................most likely I would guess 12-16 hrs on the floors and trunk floor the tool box was about 8hrs. This summer I was at Louisville Ky for the Street Rod Nat's and a well known Ford reproducer is now offering a '40 complete floor board for $1800 plus freight from the west coast. For me to make it metal would cost around $70.00 that would leave $1730 if you figure the labor that would be $70-$85. Can I get that much...... heck no. I hope I could get 2/3's that but that might be a stretch. I look at patch panel prices every now and then if I'm not familiar with one. I usually charge a little less than what you can buy one for. I look at it like this. I wont make any money on the part if I buy it, it most likely isn't going to fit so I am going to have to deal with that,I might make some if I can make it in a reasonable time and I get the expierence of doing it. Some panels are just to reasonable to buy so I do buy some.

Currently I'm building a '59 T-bird custom. It needs both quarters. I'm looking at the prices and I don't think I can make them for the price they are selling for. I will most likely buy them. When I get a little farther on this I will post some pictures. Lots of metal work. The owner will most likely give me permission to post them.

Rocker panels and roll pans for pickup's have been the gravy parts for me.
 
Anyone at all interested in metalshaping should check out www.Metalmeet.com

As Barry said, the people there are definately a different breed. There are regional meets all over the place. The "International Metalmeet" is held in Oblong IL every year in Oct. and is definately well worth the trip if you can make it. I have been to that one for the last 4 years. Now my family knows to plan things around that, as I will obviously be out of town then.

Keep in mind that most anything that can be done to metal with a machine/tool can also be done by hand.

Aaron
 
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