1940 Ford Coupe

Barryk;3028 said:
'68 Coronet R/T,

Keith may know someone from metal meet that lives near you, where you could maybe visit and check out the tools needed.

Also there are regional metal meets held and Keith may also know of one close to you, seems to me Keith holds one in MO but I could be wrong.

The metal meet guys are a different breed, they will bend over back-wards to help someone that wants to learn.

I don't know anyone off of the top of my head NW Arizona. But you could find out real quick over at metalmeet.com. I do hold a meet at my place almost every year for the last 7. This year didn't happen too much going on.
 
I signed up for Metalmeet.com and read some of the tutorial posts. My first thought is that I am totally ignorant when it comes to working metal. Just the technique in hammering out a dent would have to be explained. I guess that might be a good thing since nobody will feel "threatened" by the new guy. LOL
 
nice work. i miss the days when the cars were still decent. i had a 38 chevy coupe that had original paint on it and no rust.
 
Thanks again guys for the kind words.

Shine, original paint and no rust is not impossible up here, but hard to find. We live on the southern edge of the salt/rust belt.

A town up the road from us owns or owned it's own power plant and it was fired by coal.When I was a kid in the 60's the coal cinders is what was used for ice melt and traction. It may not caused rust but man did it turn the cars, streets, sidewalks and houses black from the melting. Don't know what it did to the storm sewer, most likely didn't have one back then. My grandparents and others also used the coal cinders and clinkers for their driveways instead of gravel. One trip across that barefooted in the hot summer kind of put a damper on the afternoon baseball game. Most of us weren't allowed to wear our good tennis shoes outside to play ball in.
 
well i'm almost 60 and i had the opportunity to buy some old iron still running. they were not pasture art back then. drop a motor and trans in and go. did some mate plates to put a sb in front of an early ford tranny . and they didn't have to be perfect then.
this is why i have all but quit . the cars are getting worse every year . you can tie up 400 hrs in bodywork real easy now. that is what i love about corvettes. no rust , no stretched metal .
 
Keith does some awesome metal work. Looks good! Is that the one we took the body off of last year at the metal gathering at your place?
 
Been awhile since I posted about the '40. Most of the metal work is done. A friend of mine put the motor together for me and I helped!

Got it home and shot 1 coat of SPI epoxy on it, let it set over night and shot 2 coats of Dale Jarrett 88 Ford Motor Credit Rd on it and then 2 coats of SPI MS Clear on it. Figured I might be able to trick the ole'40 by painting the motor a Ford color(it's really a Porshe color but that's what was on Jarretts Ford).

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Ford color but at least it'll run like a chev, couldn't resist, sorry:D Looks nice!!
 
It's in there....finally. I shot the transmission housing and master cylinder SPI black epoxy, everything else is powder coated.

My thermostat only goes to 99 degrees it was pegged. I think it was a little warmer than that but didn't bother us putting the motor in this evening. My buddies shirt is just a little wet.

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Keith, is that an original ford trans and banjo style rearend? Very cool stuff!
 
Got some time to work on the coupe. I like to use lead in stress areas. I prefer to apply it on bare metal. Haven't had any success applying it on top of epoxy:rolleyes:

I bought this used lead kit from a MAC tool salesman in the early 70's. some of the paddles have never been used and are BluePoint.006.JPG

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After a little filing and sanding I sprayed a light coat of epoxy on it. Will let it set overnight and spray a second coat.009.JPG

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Nice! Keith, what liquid flux or rosin do you like? And a carburized flame on a small welding tip-do you like that better than a regular soldering tip? I had a slip on soldering tip I used years ago that I lost, sure miss that handy thing but a small welding tip works fine if you manage the distance well. Nice work!
 
Thanks Bob. I use something called Tins Tighter it is pink in color, have has it since the late 70's. I used to use a product called Tin-It in a orange can , but can't find it no more so I use Eastwoods Tinning butter. Still have a new tin of bee's wax from the 60's-70's for the paddles. In the box is some of those carburizing tips, but the guy I worked for didn't use them , so I didn't either. They are dried up looking now. The old guy (about 35 yrs old in the early 70's hehe) only used the small welding tip and that's all I know how to use. He never did a great big area only seams and edges where a chip might occur.
 
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