1966 Valiant for the Other Daughter....

Actually I wish you’d share a link. Whenever someone sees fit to offer the snake oil response, I like to add an alternative to the conversation so the POR bs doesn’t go uncontested. If the casual observer reads it now, it appears to have much more validity when no one speaks out against it.
 
MP&C said:
Actually I wish you’d share a link. Whenever someone sees fit to offer the snake oil response, I like to add an alternative to the conversation so the POR bs doesn’t go uncontested. If the casual observer reads it now, it appears to have much more validity when no one speaks out against it.
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tagged you in it.
 
Spent a few hours this afternoon... too hot out there today. We are committed now. It is lining up within 1/16", can't ask for more. The RH upper quarter piece from Michigan had the holes for the taillight in it. For some reason it does not line up well. Need to expand the clearance holes so I can rotate that taillight to be vertical. The LH will go vertical if you rotate it so that one is good.

You always will need some minor adjustments to your weld joint as you go. I needed to skim just a little off the back top to get it to fit perfect.

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Pretty darn impressive fitment of the panel. Also, you could get a little more work done if you'd stop playing with the know-it-all's on facebook ;)

I gotta hand it to you, those two tabs you left are a great idea. Putting that one in the old memory bank.
 
I've had mixed results with the POR products.. From sticks like it was porcelain, to peels off in sheets. I've seen others use it where it kept on rusting underneath, and there wasn't much left but a shell of paint..
As someone who needs to guarantee a paint finish, it's too hit or miss for me to mess with. Don't know about you but once is enough to have to pay for paint materials. My process is an ice pick to check for deep pitting.. If it holds an ice pick, it will hold paint. If it doesn't, the nearby pits would be coming through your fresh paint within two years. Any pitted metal gets replaced with fresh metal. All gets properly abraded (garnet media or DA on flat areas) and epoxy primer..
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...and we wait...
 
“If it holds an ice pick”. Not sure I understand that. Do you mean if you ice pick the metal and it does not go through the metal it has enough meat left?
 
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Use the ice pick as you would on a block of ice. If it is hiding pits on the back side, the ice pick will go through. If you hadn’t found the pits they would work their way through within two years, right through your fresh paint. I say again, cheaper to fix before the paint goes on.
 
MP&C said:
Use the ice pick as you would on a block of ice. If it is hiding pits on the back side, the ice pick will go through. If you hadn’t found the pits they would work their way through within two years, right through your fresh paint. I say again, cheaper to fix before the paint goes on.
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what are ice picks? Never seen one in AZ
 
Long, Long, ago in a time nearly forgotten (or non-existent In AZ) a person used to pick up ice from the local ice plant, not the grocery store. This was available in cube form, but for the early refrigerators, it used a block of ice. Ice picks were therefore used to chip away in a straight line until the block broke in two. Ice pick, the best scribe you can get in marking out your panels for trimming, and excellent tools for finding hidden rust pits.
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Nothing picture worthy but many packages sent out today. Radiator and heater core to Glen-Ray, plastic dash bezels to Vacuum OraMetal for restoration, seat plugs for the bench seat holes when buckets are installed (Kurt Eastabrooks is going to try to make molds and create a new product), speedometer head to Dick's Speed-o-tach for restoration and calibration, plus finally sent out a few packages of items I gave/sold to several folks from the left over Dart parts.
 
Oh and new from Kueneman MOPAR Corner I’m going to give dash pad restoration a shot. Those early A pads are super simple and Just Dashes has a video of how they do it. All I don’t have is a vacuum table but like I said this is so simple compared to the dashes of the 70’s I give it a shot. If I screw it up I’ll send it to Just Dashes and $700 for them to fix my mistakes.

Started to sand it down since I had the air outside. It is just using body tools with foam instead of filler.

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JimKueneman said:
Oh and new from Kueneman MOPAR Corner I’m going to give dash pad restoration a shot. Those early A pads are super simple and Just Dashes has a video of how they do it. All I don’t have is a vacuum table but like I said this is so simple compared to the dashes of the 70’s I give it a shot. If I screw it up I’ll send it to Just Dashes and $700 for them to fix my mistakes.

Started to sand it down since I had the air outside. It is just using body tools with foam instead of filler.

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I'll be paying attention to this one. Like an idiot I put a hole in my original mint dash pad to mount my tach. Oh to be young and dumb......those where the days, lol
 
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