Which Clear would be best for overall black paint job

M

moparmusclecars

I have several black paint jobs coming up in the near future. I was intending on using Universal Clear on them, but I have heard that turbo might be a better choice as it would leave less swirl marks from buffing. I will be color sanding and buffing these jobs from front to back. They were saying the universal stays softer for a longer period of time, and therefore would leave more swirl marks than the turbo clear. Also would the universal stay soft longer and cause an issue with rock chips in the front end of a Dodge Diesel truck? The guy will be driving it a lot, and I am concerned about the Universal staying soft for a long time, and the customer getting more rock chips. He has a lot of chips now (that is why we are repainting the truck), so that is why I am so concerned about it. What would work best for black paint jobs?
 
No answer but I do have a question...
Why do people go bc/cc with Black instead of SS? Is there a durability issue or something?
As I understand it the scratches one may get 'down the road' in the SS don't show like they do in CC.

Anyway I'll leave this where Moparmusclecar left it...What would work best for black paint jobs?
 
Check out my post on Euro Clear where I sprayed a fiberglass truck hood with Pro Spray Black and SPI Euro 5000 Clear. http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?2072-Euro-Clear
I was majorly impressed with the Euro clear, it is high gloss and from what I hear cures much harder (more scratch resistant) than the UV.

NoobDude, check out Rusty's post http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?332-1963-427-Galaxie
Single Stage seems to produce a deeper black but many will spray clear over the single stage to keep the wet look easier to maintain.
I think Shine has some examples of SS black cars somewhere on here too.
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;25646]Check out my post on Euro Clear where I sprayed a fiberglass truck hood with Pro Spray Black and SPI Euro 5000 Clear. http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?2072-Euro-Clear
I was majorly impressed with the Euro clear, it is high gloss and from what I hear cures much harder (more scratch resistant) than the UV.

NoobDude, check out Rusty's post http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?332-1963-427-Galaxie
Single Stage seems to produce a deeper black but many will spray clear over the single stage to keep the wet look easier to maintain.
I think Shine has some examples of SS black cars somewhere on here too.[/QUOTE]im ready to paint my personal car,is this clear that good?
 
You can't go wrong with any of the SPI clears however each has its specific market.

Show Car = Universal Clear
Spot Repair = Turbo Clear
Euro Clear = high end clear with some flexibility in mixing/spraying for collision shops

Check out the Tech Manual for detailed information on each of them. http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/TechManual.pdf
I like the Production Clear also for everyday work.
 
universal clear is like spraying light honey. it makes my airbrushing look better than it really is. LOL. cures way faster with uv exposure or u can add polar accelorator. I have never had problems with swirl marks. to me cutting and buffing is another process that has to be mastered. i hate it but it makes me spray better. im a good sculptor now too. :O check out the universal pictures here through this topcoat subject. here are a few.
some of my hobby stuff:
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1318-another-helmet
http://photobucket.com/85FXRTrueBlueGhostFire

bob h's awesome extreme clearing:
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthr...ear-4-coats-sanded-with-320-then-3-more-coats

maybe there should be a subject /thread thats all universal clear pics?

i think my next single color paint job i may try ss with clear over it... i was just wondering about spraying some harley mags like that.
 
'68, when your talking spot repair, does the turbo clear seem to work better than the Universal clear for say, two panels? I am just trying to learn where each clear works best, although I know universal is suppose to work for overall or spot repairs. I have only sprayed the universal, but I am looking to see if there is a better solution for one to three panel repair jobs. Thanks. I love this discussion, as I get to continue learning about SPI products!
 
moparmusclecars;25664 said:
'68, when your talking spot repair, does the turbo clear seem to work better than the Universal clear for say, two panels? I am just trying to learn where each clear works best, although I know universal is suppose to work for overall or spot repairs. I have only sprayed the universal, but I am looking to see if there is a better solution for one to three panel repair jobs. Thanks. I love this discussion, as I get to continue learning about SPI products!
Click to expand...

I love the tech line BUT the worst call, I get is from a shop and the question is, what clear should we use?
If he is doing a restro or street rod then my answer is simple, only the Universal.

For everyday insurance work it is what works best for the shop and that is the hardest one for me to answer.
We have dealerships that have used Universal for years, that do high production warranty and insurance work and we have just as many using the euro 5000 or 5100 or 2100.
 
Barry;25683 said:
I love the tech line BUT the worst call, I get is from a shop and the question is, what clear should we use?
If he is doing a restro or street rod then my answer is simple, only the Universal.

For everyday insurance work it is what works best for the shop and that is the hardest one for me to answer.
We have dealerships that have used Universal for years, that do high production warranty and insurance work and we have just as many using the euro 5000 or 5100 or 2100.
Click to expand...
barry,why would the universal be alot better for restoration work?which clear is more resistant to everyday abuse,and is less scratch prone,and has a higher solid content?thanks
 
platinum performance;25699 said:
barry,why would the universal be alot better for restoration work?which clear is more resistant to everyday abuse,and is less scratch prone,and has a higher solid content?thanks
Click to expand...

The Universal is more flexible and therefor more chemical and stone chip resistant.
Eample-T- bird with 9 coats painted in 2000, drive over 30,000 miles and not one chip.
chev black 6 coats painted in 99, 15000 miles and drag strip at least a dozen times, not one chip.
Neither car has been waxed or rebuffed and either car today could place in top ten for paint in a local car show.

It don't get no better then that, no matter how much you spend per gallon.
Just me personally but anything of mine is going to have only 4000 or 4100 on it, be it a fender of wifes car or a classic.
 
So, what would preference be between single stage black, single stage black with UV clear or black BC/CC?
 
tcsauto;25711 said:
So, what would preference be between single stage black, single stage black with UV clear or black BC/CC?
Click to expand...

It is splitting hairs.

If a less expedience painter, I always steer to base clear.
Someone like Rusty, with lots of experienced and good paint conditions, does not really matter.
Lots of experience, say me painting in my 2.75 garage, I'm going base clear because of conditions and fiar chance I will cause damage in assembly, that will need to be touched up, pros that do this everyday, touch up is normally a rare situation.

Now to answer rest of your question???? clear over SS would be strongest and longest lasting, IF everything done right and a lot of if's involved.
 
oh damn barry you know i gotta know the ifs cause that would segway perfectly into my epoxy,ss,cc vs powdercoat on harley mags in the primer section...
 
form406;25720 said:
oh damn barry you know i gotta know the ifs cause that would segway perfectly into my epoxy,ss,cc vs powdercoat on harley mags in the primer section...
Click to expand...

My only concern is adhesion, adhesion should be better then a base but that is assuming proper speed activators were used in the SS and then the time frame of clearing.
Waiting overnight, I have never seen a failure in my lifetime and consider that the best way, then again if SS has some trash and the SS is sanded and then cleared that is also fine.
Its the stories of applying the clear in 2-4 hour range that bothers me.

I would in your case favor the powder coat as the powder-coat if you used a good grade would be about 5% better then the epoxy, in most tests.
Clear, paints are not as strong as a powder-coat.
 
That what i used to do years ago on some of the older cars. I would single stage them, let them sit at least over night scuff out a few things i needed to and then clear. I never had a single one come back for issues. I agree with Barry, the single stage base has to be set up before clearing.
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;25649]You can't go wrong with any of the SPI clears however each has its specific market.

Show Car = Universal Clear
Spot Repair = Turbo Clear
Euro Clear = high end clear with some flexibility in mixing/spraying for collision shops

Check out the Tech Manual for detailed information on each of them. http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/TechManual.pdf
I like the Production Clear also for everyday work.[/QUOTE]

What # is turbo clear,don't see it the tech manual? (Uv=4000,4100) (euro=5000,5100) (production=2100) (turbo=?) thanks in advance.
 
Turbo has been discontinued. The Euro has pretty much taken the place of it with the newer assortment of activators.
 
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