What is max thickness for Rage Gold filler?

O

oldjunkster

Member
Welded in a patch panel and do not have access from the backside of the panel. Panel warped a little and looks like I might need to fill in about 1/8". Is that too deep for filler?

Thanks in advance.
 
I've noticed very thick applications having a tendency to crack in the very long term, but for all we know the modern fillers have improved to the point that they won't do that. I guess we might know in 10-20 years, but it's always safest to keep it as thin as possible.
 
I have seen filler over an inch thick and no cracks. Check this out.
Car as I got it with obvious filler work done on quarter panel.
QuarterLeft.jpg


Of course this is the first place I dig into and look what I find:
DeepBondo.jpg


The guy who did this was a class AAA hack but quite a sculptor.
 
haha typical custom bike. i had one sportbike where i buried my angle grinder and 2" roloc up to the handle and didnt hit metal yet. lol
 
They had scabbed 1/2 of a quarter panel over the rusted one, screwed it into place, ground the screw heads flat, then caved it in with a hammer and covered with filler.
For the inside, they used tar and some kind of rubber floor mat to cover everything up. This thing was a nightmare and I advised the owner to junk it but he wanted it all fixed up so I did.
 
I wonder what drove his decision to use two different kinds of filler? I mean like when using it that thick, lol. Maybe he used the cheap stuff first then stepped up to a premium blend?
 
Don't laugh at the garage sale products. I had a local painter wonder why my stuff looked so sharp after sanding and buffing. After talking with him for a while he told me he doen't really know what he uses to buff because he bought a bunch of compounds from a garage sale and mixed it together. Talk about wasting my breath on that deal.

These two guys might run together.
 
YEAH,Ive seen some pretty good PLASTIC SURGEONS IN MY 20 YEARS DOING THIS!
 
If you have a rougher area requiring more filler, a product such as USC all metal is a much more durable choice for a starter coat, followed by a smoother filler. All metal is a fiberglass/ground aluminum mix which is strong enough to be substituted for lead filler in the old large factory seams..
 
jlcustomz;n77303 said:
If you have a rougher area requiring more filler, a product such as USC all metal is a much more durable choice for a starter coat, followed by a smoother filler. All metal is a fiberglass/ground aluminum mix which is strong enough to be substituted for lead filler in the old large factory seams..
Click to expand...

I can't stand All Metal, I would use plain old Duraglass as a primary filler to take up the deeper areas cut with a grinder and finish with putty. I have seen/had All Metal fail just as fast as Duraglass under the right conditions.
 
We can all have different experiences with the same product.
It definitely has a short​ shelf life & a less than fresh can ain't gonna stick right.
 
True, I just haven't had good luck or any different luck using it or Duraglass so I just stick with Duraglass.
 
All-Metal has proven to be touchy in regards to the resin-hardener ratio with its unique and proprietary amber liquid hardener, not to mention the intentionally misleading name. Also, I don't believe it has been the beneficiary of new adhesion promotion technologies, which debuted in the market as Evercoat's "ZNX-7," but have now been licensed to all the major filler manufacturers. Correct me if I am wrong, though, I can't say I have seen a can of "All-Metal" in over two decades! For those that use it successfully, bravo, but I for one don't think it is a good product to recommend to beginners, or to anyone, for that matter.
 
all metal . metal to metal , alumigrip all that stuff is the same. they just change names every so often . not any better than any polyester filler. it's all one song. i prefer the new epoxy hybrids.
 
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