Wet Sanding UV Clear! Crosshatch or straight line method

S

stan

I would like the general consensus regarding wetsanding UV Clear. Some people say cross hatch which is from different angles like blocking primer. Others endorse straight line method.

It seems that cross hatching would be more effective in completely sanding the panel from multiple angles. Straight line method seems less effective. Either technique would use 1000,1200,1500,2000 and 2500 paper.

Does anyone have experience with both techniques?
 
You will need to use both techniques depending on the shape of the panel.
 
Bob, kinda what I told Stan on the phone, now a question for you is I told him I will not use a hard block on fresh clear but said 80% of people probably do, what is your opinion on this?
 
Fresh fresh clear will be a struggle with a hard block for sure-paper loading is the biggest problem. For me I like to let the clear cure up a bit before blocking with a hard block and I use bar soap on the paper-keeps the paper clean. Note: When I'm after the best finished product I want it cured well enough that it's stable so after the cut and buff there's no contraction or any signs of shrinkage down the road. For production type work, fresh clear...I use a rubber block and end up leaving some defects in the finish-defects that nobody can see unless compared side by side with a hard blocked job. JMO
 
Bob,
Can you explain the bar soap on the paper? I'm not familiar with that. I usually had a drop or two of soap to my water bucket. Oh and I am one of those "hard block guys" but I usually wait a couple of days minimum before wet sanding.
 
Just use some basic bar soap, Ivory etc.... soak your paper first, rub some soap on the paper and start sanding, rub it again. You'll have a slippery slurry but the paper will stay clean untill it wears down. Light pressure, flat block, one paper thickness-don't double or triple wrap the paper. I start with 1000 and step it down,
 
Make sure your bodywork is straight when you're doing it this way, I also have some blocks with holes in them that cut a little more aggressive and the holes allow the paper to bleed the water out between the paper and the block.
 
When it comes to sanding clear with the finer grits, like 1500
and above, I don't see much difference between a hard block or a soft one.
 
jcclark;13389 said:
When it comes to sanding clear with the finer grits, like 1500
and above, I don't see much difference between a hard block or a soft one.

I agree and only use the hard block on the first sanding.
 
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